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Thread: C-18 Performance Mods

  1. #46
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    Chad, in post #42 you show a ladder. Is that ladder also from Eddie Marine? Do you have a part number? I started a new thread to deal with this and you can answer there if you want so we don't keep cluttering your awesome build thread. Thanks. http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...330#post669330
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  2. #47
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    Ok. I’m working on finishing this project. I need my boat in the water, we have a trip in two weeks to Bear Lake in Utah. Must have a boat. I have been side tracked with my new Can-Am Maverick X3 RC Turbo R buggy. I sold the 16. Toys are a lot of work.

    I have been working on getting all this transom hardware installed and glued on the last couple days. What a PITA. I think it was Yeller who pointed to the solution to mounting K planes on a classic transom. Ok, so you need a shim because the transom is curved. I ordered the poly resin, and made them. It also took me two tries to get them right on each side. The whole process of getting K planes on these boats, proper, sealed and done right is simply insane. I can’t imagine anyone other than a crazy hobbyist doing this because of how much work it is. Go with Lenco trim tabs, forget this, don’t do it. Well, they are on and done, and I am the nut job for doing them. I just finished installing all of the transom hardware including the new Bravo transom assembly. This is the most packed Donzi transom I have ever seen, it is crazy. It should look cool with the drive and shortie. Clean boat, crazy transom.

    Now I have to get the sea water plumbing done along with the wiring and hydraulic steering hoses done in the compartment. After that I will get to work on the engine, which at this point is just hanging from my hoist. I have to get the Bravo coupler installed and then prep it for installing the supercharger.

    I ordered an XR upper and a IMCO 1:50 -2 Shortie with a 1.25” shaft. Overkill like everything else. I am thinking of getting a labbed Mirage + 29P for a prop. I have a call into BBlades to discuss other options. Not a lot of data for 18s with HP and a shortie.

    I should have to motor in and whipple on by the end of the weekend. Next week I should have the drive on and ready to get it running on the hose. Two weeks, sea trial on local lake before we head off to Bear lake for a week. We’ll see if this thing will do 85mph at 7000 elevation. If it does, goal achieved, if not, the motor comes apart and I will build a performance 383 for the whipple......

  3. #48
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    Some photos of the process.

  4. #49
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    I need some input. I have a transom pickup for all raw water now and blocked off the back of the transom assembly. I am thinking based on previous feedback from the group that I should remove the hose in the gimbal so that the water pickups on the drive will circulate cool water through the drive. Is this a for sure deal? I don’t want to cut the hose unless that is the best way. I have not heard that the XR drive relies on the water circulation for cooling. I know the alpha does. What say the Donzi mafia, cut the hose?

  5. #50
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    Love the look of a whipple on top of an engine!


    Quote Originally Posted by Turbochad View Post
    Ok. I’m working on finishing this project. I need my boat in the water, we have a trip in two weeks to Bear Lake in Utah. Must have a boat.
    Nothing like giving yourself too much work and not enough time to get a project finished.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  6. #51
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    I have been hard at work for five days straight. I am close to being finished with the hull rigging. I will get the oil cooler buttoned up and painted tonight and finalize the water hose install. Probably a good time to prime and bleed the trim tab and drive rams, and test all the new electrical. I have a little work yet at the controls.

    Then on to the motor. I have to swap out the Alpha drive coupler for a HD Bravo coupler and then get to work on the Whipple install. I will get the manifold on the motor out of the boat, put the block back in the boat and finish the blower install in the boat.

    I am ordering a prop today. I am either going to get a Mirage + 27p labbed or a Turbo TXP 27P labbed as my general use prop. 1:50 ratio on the drive that puts me a 85mph at 5400ish. Until I have a built motor that is all she will likely do on the stock block.

    I plan to get the boat in the water on the 20th. I should have it on the hose on the 18th.

  7. #52
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    I don’t think a 27 at that rpm will get you to 85. And I would guess a 4 or maybe even a p5x is going to be your better option if you are going to run a shorty. My 2 cents
    better to die on your feet, than live on your knees

  8. #53
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    Smokediver, although I don’t have facts to back this up, my understanding is that I can expect around 8% slip with the shorty which is the same as I had with the Alpha. If that is the case then I should hit 85 at 5420. My only data on props at this point is what Ours888 has posted and he didn’t leave much detail. I know he tried a 4blade but had concern that it would create too much stern lift on a 18. For now I am going to just use my 25P Mirage+ For our first outing and see how it handles at the top, and what my slip #s are before I order what I need to get the speed.....

  9. #54
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    Ok , I hope it works out and my only experience with a shorty is on a 22 so i am sure it will be a different outcome on the 18.
    better to die on your feet, than live on your knees

  10. #55
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    Sorry I haven't looked at this thread for awhile. The project looks great.
    The water from the drive could be used for an intercooler, otherwise, just remove the transom hose. You'll find the drive will supply plenty of water for drive cooling, and then it dumps back into the water.
    The strainer can be located a few inches below water line if necessary, if the lid is removed, a "very" small amount of incoming water will help remove any unwanted debris. The important thing is to choose a strainer that isn't self draining. It's better to have the strainer and everything down stream wet all the time. I've been foolish enough to forget to turn the the garden hose on, and havin a full system will give you a few seconds to correct things.
    Good luck! I hope everything works well for you.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  11. #56
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    George, thanks for the confirmation. I’ll take the hose out. I already blocked it off inside. Per your recommendation I am using a Johnson pump so I am running the intercooler after the pump but before any other coolers. I got the Stainless Marine strainer that has a pressure relief on it to pre-relief any pressure created at speed from the transom pickup. It has a dump at the back. The water pressure gauge is after the pump. I think the water system is good, and after last night I confirmed everything fits.

    The motor is finally in the boat. What a fiasco all the Whipple wiring is. You have to take the whole engine harness apart remove a number of circuits, install some, and move or extend others. Then repackage the whole thing. This is the worst part of the kit install. Otherwise, just an interference exercize making sure everything fits where it goes. Engine install requires a 90deg to port front of engine alignment then rotation once it is under the deck. I used quick connect fittings for fuel and PS hose return. Only had one interference issue, the water hose on the starboard side had to move outward to avoid the fuel filter/separator console. Aligned the engine. Hooked up all the water and oil hoses. At the front of the motor, the long crank snout with the SC pulley and water pump all fit nicely with just enough room to service the pump. The water shutoff valve for the transom pickup just barely fit, and is the only installation alignment that will work on this setup. The SC just misses the hatch strike console. It is like fitting 10# of $h!t into a 5# bag. Anyway, it all looks good and appears to be on the money.

    The shortie showed up last night, just in the nick of time. I spoke with Bret at BBlades and he agrees that most likely a 3 blade is going to be best, but he wants me to try a Bravo 1 also. I am going to get him data on the Mirage 25+ for him to look at and make recommendations. I bought a rebuilt XR that needs a refinish to be perfect, so I am going to shoot that in automotive paint. The epoxy base is good so I just need to paint. If I can get exhaust hose in time, I will have this thing in the water this weekend, or Monday at the latest. Still lots of installing and checking to do. The good news is no major problems at this time, hopefully she is all good the first time out.

  12. #57
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    Looking very nice . You have a good eye for detail . Can't wait to hear how it runs .

    (And the next time your car mechanic says he can't fix something for you because he can't reach it ,or whatever , tell him to grow up )
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

  13. #58
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    Looks good in there.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  14. #59
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    Looking great !
    better to die on your feet, than live on your knees

  15. #60
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    Rigging consideration

    Very nice work it’s obvious that you have put considerable time and effort into your project.

    FWIW, the angle and location where you installed your ski tow eye will see side load due to angular loading on the eye bolts. An experienced skier will put a large amount of tension on the tow eye that will vary when the load is drifting or moving dramatically over to another location. The thickness of the deck material in the area where the threaded shank and bolt is installed is not very thick as opposed to the amount found in the transom that is much thicker and more robust and will allow for a straight pull as well.
    Did you reinforce this area prior to installing the ski tow? Even if the eye comes with a backing plate you may want to add a large block of wood, or an aluminum plate to spread the load over a large area of fiberglass to insure it does not crack or worse yet pull out.

    The fiberglass on my boat at that location is not very thick and even with a reinforcing block of wood and or plate of aluminum behind it I would be concerned about its strength.

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