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Thread: C-18 Performance Mods

  1. #16
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    Low speed is a relative term. These are good to ,I would guess, at least 100 MPH.
    The bottom inlet angle can be ground to a flatter angle if pressure gets too high.
    I have a pressure gauge on the dash and have never seen more than 6 PSI @ over
    70 MPH. I also have a relief valve w/overboard dump but it's completely redundant.
    The pictures are of my 22C Testa Rossa. There's a heat exchanger hiding at the
    bottom of the rear seat also w/an electric circulating pump.

    Good luck w/your project.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  2. #17
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    First, many thanks to all of the contributions to my project, they are very helpful. Some updates. I am ordering today the hydraulic steering setup. I am going with IMCO because of the low gimbal offsets they offer. I am using the 6.37” offset setup dual ram. I already ordered a Stainless Marine transom pickup and short sea strainer. I will plumb them much as George did with the hard pipe setup before the shut off valve. Once I get the steering system in hand I will begin the project. I already have a new Bravo transom assembly so I will be ready to go. I will get the drive before the end of winter. Plan is for an XR upper and IMCO 2” shortie lower 1:36 ratio. I got the new Corsa 600hp exhaust mufflers, so all set there. I am going to get rid of the captains call system because the mufflers are already quiet enough and I never use it in thru prop mode. That should give me a little more space around the back of the motor for access. I am guessing that the boat will be around 120-140lbs heavier because of all the new stuff.

    One more thing. I am having a custom adapter made to run the Johnson crank mounted water pump off the Whipple supercharger pulley adapter. it will be a billet piece. My local race shop is making it for me to match the whipple adapter.
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  3. #18
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    Holy Exhaust muffler Bat Man! These 600hp exhaust cans look the part. They have internal flappers so I can run them without exterior flaps. The back of this beast is going to look really cool with k planes, XR Drive with shortie, IMCO Dual steering, Dual water dumps, Livorsi LED lighting, and swim steps. There won’t be an inch of real estate left on the transom. I got the boat apart today and ready to pull the motor, I just need to get lift space so I can get it pulled. I may have to just take the 16’ and move it out of the shop to another garage. I should have the pulley adapter back next week so I will have all the parts needed to get going.

  4. #19
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    FYI, I am going to have some takeoffs for sale. I will price them based on condition once I have time to figure out what they are worth, They include:

    Alpha Drive, and transom Gimbal assembly- 80hours, like new.

    Corsa Quick and Quiet system complete- wire harness, diverters, 350hp mufflers, hoses, and clamps. Same 80 hours. Like new.

    Mag 350 MPI exhaust manifolds and exhaust risers.

    Mag 350 MPI intake manifold, throttle body, and fuel rail.

    If anyone here wants any of these items let me know.

    Chad
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  5. #20
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    PM sent about the alpha package
    1978 X-18, SBC, Volvo 280T
    Big Grizzly 21 Solas Prop
    Heart Bay, Lake George, NY

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirbyvv View Post
    PM sent about the alpha package
    PM replied.

  7. #22
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    Ok, I got the sea strainer and transom pickup. I finished the design of the system and ordered a bunch of SS adapters from McMaster Carr and hose fittings from Hardin. I got a SS garden hose hookup off the strainer for land starts. I am going to put the strainer on the firewall behind the seats on the starboard side. I will move the second battery over to the port side. The strainer, hoses, oil cooler, and trim pump should balance out the two size 24 batteries on the other side. The two new trim pumps for the tabs will fit on the transom on each side now that the steering ram is no longer on the port side. Now I need to find out from George how far down exactly to mount the stainless marine transom pickup. I am guessing that the bottom of the boat should be flush with the leading edge of the pickup and then you can file the back edge down as needed? Also, do I need a bracket to hold the crank pump in place or does the tension of the hoses on the pump enough? Guessing I need a bracket?

  8. #23
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    I got the crank adapter back from my race shop. If anyone else ever needs an adapter between a Whipple crank pulley and a Johnson crank driven sea water pump here is the drawing. If you have to ask what that part cost you shouldn’t be putting a supercharger on your boat. I also got the Livorsi Fuel Pressure guage and Manifold Pressure/ Vacuum guage. It turns out that buying the boat is always the least expensive part for me. I can’t leave anything alone. Getting closer to D day when I will get to installing everything.

    Does anyone have a good suggestion on who to deal with to get a new or like new condition Bravo XR upper unit? There is a reman unit on ebay for $4,800. I would love to find someone i could deal with on an reman or new upper and 2” IMCO shortie as a package deal.
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  9. #24
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    Ok, before I pull the motor I am getting all the other stuff done outside of the engine compartment and transom. I picked up a wet sound 6 channel amp, (2) 6.5” speakers, (2) 8” speakers, and a 10” sub. I mounted the amp under the deck by installing rivnuts in the inner layer of fiberglass, and using them to mount two aluminum straps to the deck that can be threaded for mounting the amp. I installed the two new 2 5/8” gauges, a fuel pressure guage, and boost/vacuum guage. I also put in the hydraulic helm. I had to get a trim plate from IMCO to cover the factory holes from the old helm. I mounted trim buttons on the steering wheel and got the trim tab panel mounted. I bought new GPS speedo and tach in carbon fiber as an accent on the dash.

    Next I will get all of the wires run, remove the old steering cable, and install the four hoses to the helm. Once I get all of that complete I will be ready to pull the motor and get the business done.

    Update 1/14- I decided to add LED light rings to the speakers and a LED controller. I also got the new billet stereo cover on and the speaker wiring.

  10. #25
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    Transom is starting to come together. There is not a square inch left unused on this transom, but so far everything fits. I used a laser level to set up all the locations (I did level the boat first). I ordered all my hardware including EM Billet stringer washers for all the through transom bolts so everything is sano. Next I need to get the k-plane holes drilled, and make the resin transom shims for them. Once everything is drilled and all parts dry fitted, with hardware, I will take it all off, pull the motor, install the new Bravo transom assembly, paint the bilge, install all the transom gear, and reinstall the motor. Then I can finally put on the supercharger, which is the whole reason for doing this project, whew....

    I did a spreadsheet weight analysis and it appears I am adding close to 170# to the boat including all the stereo gear, supercharger, and drive change. I did my best to move as much of it forward in the engine compartment as possible because a fair amount is on the transom (100# over stock alpha). I also balanced it out laterally so the boat is even side to side with my wife and I both in the boat. Packaging in the 18 is tricky.

    I need to start thinking about the drive. I am planning on a Bravo 1 XR upper and either a -2 Sport Master or -2 IMCO SC lower. I am on the fence about whether to go 1:50 or 1.32 ratio. At 1.5 I will be at a 27P M+ and hit 85 at 5400 RPM if all goes to plan. At 1:32 and a 25P M+ I will hit 85 at 5200. That should be top speed with this setup. Looking at the archives it seems that the 18 like 3 blade props the best with the M+ and Turbo 1 as the preferred props.

  11. #26
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    Looking good.
    From what others have said in the past, the Sport Master does not work well on the Classics. Don't know the reason why, but I know they've been tested in the past and the results weren't good.
    IMO, unless you're buying a brand new IMCO, I'd just look for a good a deal and not worry too much about gear ratio. Still lots of prop choices available in the 27~29" range. I'd look specifically for a 1:36 if you thought you'd need 30" and up, as the choices get smaller and more expensive.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  12. #27
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    Looks like a great build doing everything awesome. Drives I would say Blackhawk they love the 18 teens boat the drive and ride like they are on rails I know.😁😁

  13. #28
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    Yeller, I really appreciate all the good advice. I am all set up to make that shim as you outlined in your build. There a ton of curvature in the transom on the 18. I was planning on the IMCO shortie (probably new, they are hard to find used), I will certainly stay away from the sport master.

    Craig, I would love a Blackhawk, but I want to be able to tow skiers and I have heard that they don’t pull well. Maybe you have input there. The other issue is now I have steering rams for a B1. I have heard that a -2 shortie works pretty good, not as fast as BH for the same power, but handles well too. By the way, what is your thought on whether or not I should feed the intercooler water before the raw water pump or after? Isn’t yours is on its own separate transom pickup that is force fed with no pump, right? Mine is going to utilize a single transom pickup 1-1/4” for the intercooler and the engine cooling in combination with a sea strainer and crank driven pump. I will call Justin at Whipple to see what he has to say on this but I thought you might have some insight here.

    General Comment: The toughest part of this build is all the transom work. I have really loaded up the transom with all manner of gadgets. I am being extremely careful in preparing the layout and drilling the holes. The Mayfair K planes came with templates that they said were good for use in drilling holes. Upon measurement, they were way off, that was disappointing. Luckily I caught it before I drilled the holes. My hull is 2” all the way across the transom because it is a Coosa boat, so all the holes have to be perfectly at the correct angle for the parts to sit flat, or as intended on the surface. The K Planes are a real challenge, but the swimsteps aren’t much better. Both require custom shims and special mounting. The last critical piece once everything is ready will be to get the seal perfect. These through bolt parts concern me. I have added 35 transom hole penetrations......
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  14. #29
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    My intercooler is plumbed after the raw water pump and oil/steering cooler, but before the heat exchanger.
    Never had a shortage of water.

    I don't know how the BH would act on an 18 for skiing, but it wouldn't pull a skier up very well on my 22.
    The increased planing time was one of the things that surprised me with the BH. I had anticipated that the dual props would snap me out of the hole, but that wasn't the case. Much quicker planing time with the stock Bravo.

    I swapped drives once with a friend that had a -2 imco. The differences (on my boat) between the Bravo, Imco and BH were, that as the prop went up:
    High speed handling improved.
    Top speed increased (although some, if not all, was because of the above)
    Porpoising increased.
    Planing time increased.
    Don't take any of this as fact. I stress that this was on my boat. Your boat may react differently
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #30
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    For my set up I put a stainless Marine adjustable pick up on the back lower transom,and when I found the right spot which is not very low below the hull I welded it. Then 1"1/4 line to my see strainer and from there to my cooler and plumes it out beside my pump out hole. I didn't want to take from the motor in case there wasn't enough water flow. Pretty simple just watch for your pressure I put a block pressure have in and boost presure have in.can send you picks just text me. Looks great. And I can still pull skiers and tube rider's no problem if they stay on to long I just bring my drive up a hair and there gone 😁😁

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