16 re-core parts list help

[blacktruck]

I'm a little confused, is all this so you don't have to mix some thickened resin? It's seems to me getting rid of all the old coring is the hard part. After that mixing up a batch of resin will seem like childs play. Whether you use balsa or some composite the work is the same. Just pick what you are comfortable using concerning budget and skill set.

This exactly. Thank you. It was very confusing.

[woobs]

... I was just trying to find out what others have done and why. I thought that is what a message board was all about.....

+1

[jvcobra]

I hear what you are saying but I was just trying to find out what others have done and why. I thought that is what a message board was all about. I would feel pretty stupid if I did say Balsa and there was something else out there easier, cheaper and with better results and I didn't know because I didn't ask.

No harm in that, I know you are vary capable guy and look forward to the progress reports.

[blacktruck]

No harm in that, I know you are vary capable guy and look forward to the progress reports.

No harm in asking at all. It's just that suggestions were made, it's relatively straight forward and there was in insistence to use non-core materials. Asking is great, insisting to use bad materials and defending them is the confusing part.

[gcarter]

Since questions are still being asked, I wanted to re-introduce the Core-Mat/glass
discussion.......
My left knee has almost incapacitated me for almost two weeks. That kept me from my
office and shop where the boat and deck plug were.
My 22C fore deck is about 11' long, 7' beam, and is in a long triangle shape. I've already .
posted a picture of the large plug I removed from the deck.
I have a very accurate electronic postal scale and used it to determine the plug weighed
.202 #. It's approximately .75" thick. I very carefully measured the plug and determined h
it weighs approximately 4.02#/sq'. Consider your outer skin is already in existence, so
your add on weight would be less.
My deck uses what appears to be mat and 1708 under the gel, then three courses of
(what I think is) 2 mm Core-Mat (but the first course of
Core-Mat may be 1 mm), and the bottom skin is probably also mat and 1708.
The reason I'm supporting this method is it's very strong, and it very easy to accomplish.
Since the Core-Mat is very flexible and non woven, it's ideal for building on old, rough
non-flat surfaces.
Since no one thinks twice about standing 2 or 3 folks on the fore deck of a 22, it should
work really well on an 18. In fact, you could probably get by w/2 courses of Core-Mat.

[f_inscreenname]

Thanks G,
I’m glad to know it and will use it in the future I’m surebut I don’t think I’m going to use it on this boat. I love how it installs andI’m sure it is stronger than others being it’s layered like it is but I amreally worried about weight. I would have to do all 3 layers to feel safe aboutit but that would be at least 2 more layers of glass that I wouldn’t need to dowith other cores.
I also ordered the Balsa block and glass the other day.Figured I would keep it simple with this old little boat. Also figure I knowwhere all the cutouts are and will be able to seal them up this time.
Glad I asked cause I learned a lot

[blacktruck]

Thanks G,
I’m glad to know it and will use it in the future I’m surebut I don’t think I’m going to use it on this boat. I love how it installs andI’m sure it is stronger than others being it’s layered like it is but I amreally worried about weight. I would have to do all 3 layers to feel safe aboutit but that would be at least 2 more layers of glass that I wouldn’t need to dowith other cores.
I also ordered the Balsa block and glass the other day.Figured I would keep it simple with this old little boat. Also figure I knowwhere all the cutouts are and will be able to seal them up this time.
Glad I asked cause I learned a lot

You are right, the core-mat would be heavy! And if dry, it is not strong. Good call.