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Thread: 16 re-core parts list help

  1. #31
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    No big deal Mike. I think he thinks I'm making a boat out of floatation foam. Wait til I mention that I used the 16lb foam to replace the stringers in the race boat.

    Hey Black don't get bent over it. I'm just looking at options. It's not spring here and I will not be doing it for a couple more weeks so I have time to learn what people are doing and just what fits into my style and ability of doing things.
    As for the 2 part foam sometimes you have to come up with other ideas. When it comes to my 19 there is no removing the top and the inner liner is part of the structure of the boat and is glassed in accordingly. The only way you are getting the deck upside down is flipping the boat over and crawling under (if it don't crush you doing it) or cutting it off with a chainsaw.
    The whole concept came when I had another broken hull strike and they all kept getting water in them no matter how many times I fixed them. Someone from Donzi (when both boards were still together) came up with the US Composites idea of injecting foam in them to fill the cavities making the strikes solid. Worked better then I though it would. Found every tiny pin hole and crack in them and I have hit a few things with it (dirty bay) since and there is no damage. Before I was fixing strikes every other year.
    As a matter of fact .....

    I made a video thread (first time I know of anyone doing that) to ask the question on Donzi because it would have taken a year to type it back then and I could have never explained it anyway in just words. I still have it on you tube >>>>>

    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

  2. #32
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    This is how I fixed it. The video only shows that I did the area that needed fixing to get through the summer. The next spring the boat got a total makeover including all the strikes filled on both sides all the way to the bow. It's almost been a decade and I have had no issues since.

    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by f_inscreenname View Post
    Kind of the same issues with 2 part foam. It tends to run to low areas and level. Not good for a rounded deck.
    The question was from a materials standpoint only. I like to keep an open mind and explore possibilities.

    Clearly, a self leveling material could not just be poured on a horizontal deck. However, this material is used to pour transom cores that are both curved (rounded) and vertical. If a formed bulkhead was constructed and lined with a mold release agent then, fastened to the underside of the deck while the deck stood on edge, a uniform gap could be maintained to be filled with Sea Cast the same as a transom.

    The main question is: Would the Sea Cast material be satisfactory if it was able to be applied.

    Similarly, marine plywood as applied in the posted restoration forms to the compound curves of the deck due to being cut in strips (Think canoe building). Plywood is much stronger than balsa and while it initially weighs more, it absorbs less resin. I believe the resulting deck would be heavier than a balsa core but, not by much. If using epoxy anyways, correctly sealed and encapsulated plywood is an excellent choice from a cost, performance and durability standpoint. Further, entire hulls are made from marine ply (my hull lasted from 1972 to 2012 and my wood deck is original with no rot) with nothing to protect them but paint and varnish. Moisture transfer and rot only become an issue if not installed correctly.

    I don't know what you will feel comfortable with or, finally will decide upon however, I think that there are many potentially suitable options (to name a few: balsa, plywood, expansion foam, Sea Cast, Coosa, cork and Coremat+++). It doesn't hurt to think them all through a bit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Sean Conroy,
    1964 Formula Jr. (hull #2) project

    1972 Greavette Sunflash III
    1981 Kavalk Mistral project

    "A man can accomplish anything... as long as he doesn't care who gets the credit."

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
    The quote you posted from US Composites is for 2lb/cubic-foot foam. The stuff F-in Mark is talking about is the 8lb/cubic foot stuff. Four times the density. Hard as a rock. Same basic stuff, but a different recipe that is much stronger and I believe is very much made for structural applications, at least of some kinds. Last I looked at their site, it had a parallel description for the 8 lb flavor. Here it is: "Common Applications: This 8LB density foam is extremely hard and rigid, like that of a soft wood. Your fingernail can penetrate its skin, however it cannot be dented by hand. Uses include casting, carving, sculpting, sign making as well as areas where an extremely durable and rigid foam is needed for support."

    Regards,

    Mike
    Exactly, the 8 lbs. is not a core material either. Not structural at all.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by f_inscreenname View Post
    No big deal Mike. I think he thinks I'm making a boat out of floatation foam. Wait til I mention that I used the 16lb foam to replace the stringers in the race boat.

    Hey Black don't get bent over it. I'm just looking at options. It's not spring here and I will not be doing it for a couple more weeks so I have time to learn what people are doing and just what fits into my style and ability of doing things.
    As for the 2 part foam sometimes you have to come up with other ideas. When it comes to my 19 there is no removing the top and the inner liner is part of the structure of the boat and is glassed in accordingly. The only way you are getting the deck upside down is flipping the boat over and crawling under (if it don't crush you doing it) or cutting it off with a chainsaw.
    The whole concept came when I had another broken hull strike and they all kept getting water in them no matter how many times I fixed them. Someone from Donzi (when both boards were still together) came up with the US Composites idea of injecting foam in them to fill the cavities making the strikes solid. Worked better then I though it would. Found every tiny pin hole and crack in them and I have hit a few things with it (dirty bay) since and there is no damage. Before I was fixing strikes every other year.
    As a matter of fact .....

    I made a video thread (first time I know of anyone doing that) to ask the question on Donzi because it would have taken a year to type it back then and I could have never explained it anyway in just words. I still have it on you tube >>>>>

    Not bent at all, was just trying to offer resources that can help. The manufacturers have people paid to help customers, might as well use them. When you use the wrong materials, it wastes your time, you get bad results and in boats, potentially dangerous. Was just trying to help. Too much misinformation out there. Just use proper core materials, install to mfgs specs and you can't go wrong. I am a perfectionist and like to do things properly, it pays off in the end. Why not a make a beautiful classic boat better than original? It actually cost less because you will never have to fix it again and it will be stronger and lighter, and you can sell it. Never meant to come off as a jerk! Was trying to be helpful. Good luck with the project.

  6. #36
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    Black, I'm almost starting to feel offended here. Do you have any clue who I am and the boats I have restored? Not being an ass here either but I will trust in something they make highway road side signs out of over balsa any day. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do. Localized balsa rot around a couple cleats was not worth me taking a chainsaw to my boat. I would have cut the bottom glass and core out and just left the top fiberglass first.
    I was told a long time ago just because you have a way of doing things it may not be the only way of doing things. If it was we would still be using rocks and sticks after the first guy did.
    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

  7. #37
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    I hear you Woobs, I grew up with wood boats. A couple that almost sunk every time we put them in in the spring. Scraping paint chips, bottom paint, varnishing until you were ready to puke or maybe that was the lead/copper/zinc bottom paint.
    Anyway, it sounds like you are talking about injection molding. They do that now but like you said you have to do all the work for it to happen. A lot more than just sticking a core to the existing and covering it. Now if you were doing hundreds of them is another story. I have done a cruder version of it though. Had a motor cover the core was gone in the top. Cut the inner glass on 3 sides and pealed it back. Removed the balsa and put the glass back in place except for the very end and then proceeded to fill it until I got to the top. The box is 20 times stronger than it ever was from the factory and a lot lighter. The only thing was I was able to stand the motor box up on end so it was like filling a transom cavity. Now if I could treat the deck like the motor box tilting it in any direction it would be an option but that’s not going to happen with something this big.
    Also thought of getting foam sheets and using the 2 part as an adhesive by spreading it real thin and sticking the sheet in it but ….
    Think I’m going to use some sort of foam sheet with poly and cabisil to stick it down. Kind of an old school / new school mix but I do like reading about the options.
    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by woobs View Post
    The question was from a materials standpoint only. I like to keep an open mind and explore possibilities.

    Clearly, a self leveling material could not just be poured on a horizontal deck. However, this material is used to pour transom cores that are both curved (rounded) and vertical. If a formed bulkhead was constructed and lined with a mold release agent then, fastened to the underside of the deck while the deck stood on edge, a uniform gap could be maintained to be filled with Sea Cast the same as a transom.

    The main question is: Would the Sea Cast material be satisfactory if it was able to be applied.

    Similarly, marine plywood as applied in the posted restoration forms to the compound curves of the deck due to being cut in strips (Think canoe building). Plywood is much stronger than balsa and while it initially weighs more, it absorbs less resin. I believe the resulting deck would be heavier than a balsa core but, not by much. If using epoxy anyways, correctly sealed and encapsulated plywood is an excellent choice from a cost, performance and durability standpoint. Further, entire hulls are made from marine ply (my hull lasted from 1972 to 2012 and my wood deck is original with no rot) with nothing to protect them but paint and varnish. Moisture transfer and rot only become an issue if not installed correctly.

    I don't know what you will feel comfortable with or, finally will decide upon however, I think that there are many potentially suitable options (to name a few: balsa, plywood, expansion foam, Sea Cast, Coosa, cork and Coremat+++). It doesn't hurt to think them all through a bit.
    Balsa is way stronger than ply when used as a core, it has the highest shear strength when it comes to most cores. Ply has compression strength but is inefficient strength wise and it's heavy. Plus it is a laminar structure, moisture spreads quickly it will rot. Sea Cast is garbage. Coosa is good. Corecell is excellent, comes in different densities for different use. Here's a rank and in your case I'd use balsa for the ease of use and value. Coosa is easy to work with as well. By 3rd doesn't mean balsa is bad, there is a reason why it's the most widely used core material.
    1. corecell
    2. coosa
    3. balsa

    the others, don't bother. This is an interesting read and will answer your questions why expandable foam and ply are not good core for sandwich construction in marine use. http://www.mse.mtu.edu/~drjohn/my4150/sandwich/sp2.html

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by f_inscreenname View Post
    Black, I'm almost starting to feel offended here. Do you have any clue who I am and the boats I have restored? Not being an ass here either but I will trust in something they make highway road side signs out of over balsa any day. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do. Localized balsa rot around a couple cleats was not worth me taking a chainsaw to my boat. I would have cut the bottom glass and core out and just left the top fiberglass first.
    I was told a long time ago just because you have a way of doing things it may not be the only way of doing things. If it was we would still be using rocks and sticks after the first guy did.
    I don't use balsa. I use Gurit products. In this case the OP was asking, where it was budget orientated it is an option and within the home builders ability. I don't know who you are and have no idea of the boats you've restored. If you use plywood, then your boats aren't that great. Post some pictures of your boat and materials used. And don't be offended, it makes no sense to use plywood.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacktruck View Post
    I don't use balsa. I use Gurit products. In this case the OP was asking, where it was budget orientated it is an option and within the home builders ability. I don't know who you are and have no idea of the boats you've restored. If you use plywood, then your boats aren't that great. Post some pictures of your boat and materials used. And don't be offended, it makes no sense to use plywood.
    1, I am the O/P.
    2, I don't use plywood. That is from another thread.
    3, post some pictures .... sure.

    Here's one.



    Here is another,



    Maybe a 3rd,



    A 4th,



    Maybe a Donzi?



    If you want a build sheet and such ... I may not have that exactly online but there is a lot more info then you will ever find on any other classic that has been restored. I even make movies of the whole thing good or bad. Resurrection Marine.com
    Go have a look and you can tell me how bad I suck when you get back.
    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacktruck View Post
    Exactly, the 8 lbs. is not a core material either. Not structural at all.
    Respectfully, I think on a closer read, the 4, 8, and 16 lb per cubic foot versions are all structural. "Structural" is a vague term though, and it really comes down to failure modes and suitability for a particular application. I'm not an expert on coring at all and I suspect we would agree there are better materials for some coring applications than the expanding foams discussed.

    My question is whether the denser US Composites make sense for some coring applications, especially given the advantage of conforming to the shape of a mold. (It'd be pretty hard for Mark to have shored up his strakes with balsa or Coosa. . )

    The article you cited on sandwich construction was a good read--thanks for that.

    IF someone is able to construct/install the foam properly, minimizing voids and getting a good bond, I would expect it might perform very well. That's not always easy as it's tricky to work with. But my experience is that done right it can bond very well. I have little data to assess whether that bond remains excellent over time or degrades. There's also a question of what bonds to what. If you use the foam on an existing glass surface, you're relying on the foam to bond to the glass. If the foam has cured and then you glass it in, the resin is bonding to the cured foam.

    The 4lb foam is recommended for compressive structural applications, such as bedding in tanks or even supporting decking or flooring best I recall. The 8 and 16 flavors are considerably stronger still. Not sure which of the 5 failure modes in the article you cited concern you?

    (a) Yielding or Fracture of the tensile face,
    (b)
    Buckling or Wrinkling of the compression face,
    (c) Failure of the core in shear all though there is also a lesser possibility of tensile or compressive failure of the core,
    (d)The
    failure of the bond between the face and the core and
    (e) the possibility of indentation of the faces and core at the loading points.

    Thinking about these out loud....A and B are failures of the face material, not the foam. The high compression strength of the 8 and 16 should do well to support the face materials in resistance to buckling. Same with indentation at loading points. If construction made for a sufficiently void-free structure, those would likely be good.

    Failure of the bond seems a concern. I suspect the biggest concern there might be construction methods. My guess is if done right, the bond would be good. I'd also expect it would remain good but I don't have much evidence or experience either way there. I'd be more concerned about getting it right than keeping it right. Getting it right, though, would be near the top of my list of concerns.

    Failure if the core in shear is also a valid concern. The article suggests (like the center of an I-beam), the core is inherently less at risk of tensile or compressive failure than the faces. The 8 and 16 flavors have good compressive strength and tensile strength. Which leaves shear and flexural strength. Which instinctively seem ike the greatest concerns to me of the foam's strength.

    Shear strength of the 16 foam is a bit above half that of comparably dense Coosa. So, not as good but certainly not non-structural. Flexural strength is far below the Coosa, though the nature of sandwich construction suggests that's potentially less significant because it is a sandwich--the outer layers are meant to see the highest flexural stresses, not the coring.

    Again, not claiming to be a coring expert, but the USC foams above 3lb density are all structural. The 8 and 16 esprcially. I think the real question is "for what structural applications do they make sense?" Here are some specs on USC foam and Coosa products.

    http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

    http://coosacomposites.com/images/Test_Data_0412.pdf

    Circling back, it sounds like you have some expertise here--curious what particular failure modes drive your thinking about the USC foam, and also about your view of suitable applications, such as the strake repair or adding some strength to a fairly curved piece of glass? What's the right way to use something like a Coosa, or other pre-formed sheets, as coring on complex curved pieces? I suppose perhaps one can cut it up unto small squares or strips, like with end-grain balsa, but I'm not sure what the best approaches are.

    Regards,

    Mike

    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by f_inscreenname View Post
    1, I am the O/P.
    2, I don't use plywood. That is from another thread.
    3, post some pictures .... sure.

    Here's one.



    Here is another,



    Maybe a 3rd,



    A 4th,



    Maybe a Donzi?



    If you want a build sheet and such ... I may not have that exactly online but there is a lot more info then you will ever find on any other classic that has been restored. I even make movies of the whole thing good or bad. Resurrection Marin.com
    Go have a look and you can tell me how bad suck when you get back.
    I think there was some confusion. It sounded like you were defending plywood. I never said your builds suck, never used that word. If they were plywood, then I would say that would be less than ideal. Great job, I really like Donzi Classics and other vintage glass boats.

    My only main point was that the manufacturers of these materials and can be really helpful. Some of the products mentioned are not structural and can have voids, bad shear strength etc and to just be aware of that when using them. That was my only message. I'll checkout your site.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
    Respectfully, I think on a closer read, the 4, 8, and 16 lb per cubic foot versions are all structural. "Structural" is a vague term though, and it really comes down to failure modes and suitability for a particular application. I'm not an expert on coring at all and I suspect we would agree there are better materials for some coring applications than the expanding foams discussed.

    My question is whether the denser US Composites make sense for some coring applications, especially given the advantage of conforming to the shape of a mold. (It'd be pretty hard for Mark to have shored up his strakes with balsa or Coosa. . )

    The article you cited on sandwich construction was a good read--thanks for that.

    IF someone is able to construct/install the foam properly, minimizing voids and getting a good bond, I would expect it might perform very well. That's not always easy as it's tricky to work with. But my experience is that done right it can bond very well. I have little data to assess whether that bond remains excellent over time or degrades. There's also a question of what bonds to what. If you use the foam on an existing glass surface, you're relying on the foam to bond to the glass. If the foam has cured and then you glass it in, the resin is bonding to the cured foam.

    The 4lb foam is recommended for compressive structural applications, such as bedding in tanks or even supporting decking or flooring best I recall. The 8 and 16 flavors are considerably stronger still. Not sure which of the 5 failure modes in the article you cited concern you?

    (a) Yielding or Fracture of the tensile face,
    (b)
    Buckling or Wrinkling of the compression face,
    (c) Failure of the core in shear all though there is also a lesser possibility of tensile or compressive failure of the core,
    (d)The
    failure of the bond between the face and the core and
    (e) the possibility of indentation of the faces and core at the loading points.

    Thinking about these out loud....A and B are failures of the face material, not the foam. The high compression strength of the 8 and 16 should do well to support the face materials in resistance to buckling. Same with indentation at loading points. If construction made for a sufficiently void-free structure, those would likely be good.

    Failure of the bond seems a concern. I suspect the biggest concern there might be construction methods. My guess is if done right, the bond would be good. I'd also expect it would remain good but I don't have much evidence or experience either way there. I'd be more concerned about getting it right than keeping it right. Getting it right, though, would be near the top of my list of concerns.

    Failure if the core in shear is also a valid concern. The article suggests (like the center of an I-beam), the core is inherently less at risk of tensile or compressive failure than the faces. The 8 and 16 flavors have good compressive strength and tensile strength. Which leaves shear and flexural strength. Which instinctively seem ike the greatest concerns to me of the foam's strength.

    Shear strength of the 16 foam is a bit above half that of comparably dense Coosa. So, not as good but certainly not non-structural. Flexural strength is far below the Coosa, though the nature of sandwich construction suggests that's potentially less significant because it is a sandwich--the outer layers are meant to see the highest flexural stresses, not the coring.

    Again, not claiming to be a coring expert, but the USC foams above 3lb density are all structural. The 8 and 16 esprcially. I think the real question is "for what structural applications do they make sense?" Here are some specs on USC foam and Coosa products.

    http://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html

    http://coosacomposites.com/images/Test_Data_0412.pdf

    Circling back, it sounds like you have some expertise here--curious what particular failure modes drive your thinking about the USC foam, and also about your view of suitable applications, such as the strake repair or adding some strength to a fairly curved piece of glass? What's the right way to use something like a Coosa, or other pre-formed sheets, as coring on complex curved pieces? I suppose perhaps one can cut it up unto small squares or strips, like with end-grain balsa, but I'm not sure what the best approaches are.

    Regards,

    Mike

    Thanks Mike, I appreciate the response. I would say if it is extremely difficult to bond in a repair piece or replace a piece, then you could look at the USC stuff for places that are not load bearing. A windshield repair, probably okay. When you inject something, you have no control over voids, how it disperses, and the cell structure is all over the place. Ask USC, I doubt they would recommend it for anything "structural" that has considerable load, factor that in with its uneven absorption and questionable fatigue, then I think it moves far down the list.

    Coosa is good. very solid and light, depending on density. I believe they have really good customer service and help. Plus, you can cut and machine just like a wood product. Very easy to work with. Thin and less dense pieces can be used if you're trying to do a light build or specific repair: http://coosacomposites.com/technical-data/faqs

    For PVC foam repairs or replacement, the scored Corecell M sheets are excellent and can be hand laid, vacuumed etc. can be fitted easily.

    Balsa is easy to work with, easy to conform and relatively inexpensive too.

  14. #44
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    I'm a little confused, is all this so you don't have to mix some thickened resin? It's seems to me getting rid of all the old coring is the hard part. After that mixing up a batch of resin will seem like childs play. Whether you use balsa or some composite the work is the same. Just pick what you are comfortable using concerning budget and skill set.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvcobra View Post
    I'm a little confused, is all this so you don't have to mix some thickened resin? It's seems to me getting rid of all the old coring is the hard part. After that mixing up a batch of resin will seem like childs play. Whether you use balsa or some composite the work is the same. Just pick what you are comfortable using concerning budget and skill set.
    I hear what you are saying but I was just trying to find out what others have done and why. I thought that is what a message board was all about. I would feel pretty stupid if I did say Balsa and there was something else out there easier, cheaper and with better results and I didn't know because I didn't ask.
    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

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