16 re-core parts list help

[f_inscreenname]

Not doing anything special. Just re-coring the front deck and the two side near the motor box. Also plan on putting some plywood in the seat areas. Plan on using 3/8 end cut balsa and Poly resin with cabasil (sp?)to thicken it up to set the balsa in. Then going to cover it with either 1708, 24oz biaxial or something (recommendations are welcome). Anything has to be more then the newspaper they put over it in 1966.
Figure I have about 24 s/f of balsa to put down, about the same in plywood and then I have to cover it all.
How much resin should I order? I can get extra at the home depot if needed so don't worry about getting close. Don't want 5 gal of resin sitting around going bad for the next 10 years.
Recommendations on what to cover it with?

Last, I have put wood floors down for decades. Half were nail downs and the other were glue downs. I've glued down wood over wood, concrete, below grade, above grade, on walls, on ceilings, pool areas, bathrooms, steam rooms ..... And there still is no adhesive you can just buy a bucket of and trowel and set balsa in? shocking.

[gcarter]

I'd get someone local to you to help answer your questions.
All you're gonna get here is a bunch of half baked opinions backed by
some really large egos.

Did you know my 22C deck was cored w/three courses of Coremat?
Really, really cheap and and adds a certain hardness to the upper
surface unobtainable w/foam or balsa core.

[f_inscreenname]

I'd get someone local to you to help answer your questions.
All you're gonna get here is a bunch of half baked opinions backed by
some really large egos.

Did you know my 22C deck was cored w/three courses of Coremat?
Really, really cheap and and adds a certain hardness to the upper
surface unobtainable w/foam or balsa core.

Really? Very few people around here have done a 16's re-core.
As much as I wanted to go hi-tech there is just no reason to on this little boat.

Thanks for your help and I will have to find pictures of the hole I cut in the raceboat where the hull is 1-1/4 thick of solid glass.

[gcarter]

The white material in the layup of the large plug I cut
from the foredeck of the TR is "Core Mat". The deck is only 28 years old.

Here's a link to what the material looks like:
http://shop.fiberglasssupply.com/Cor...-Core_Mat.html

Here's another link about the material and what it's used for.

http://www.compositesone.com/product...ials/core-mat/

It comes on a roll and has the consistency of felt.

Did I say it was inexpensive?

[gcarter]

Can anyone see the picture I posted???
If you can't, I'll try to shoot a new one by Monday.
I'm trying to display a coring technique that Donzi used for years,
It's easy to lay up and very inexpensive.
I perfectly understand your goals and the problems of generating a good
Balsa core, labor, etc., etc.

[tmdog]

If you are referring to post #2. Yes, they posted and of course lots of RED.

[45171]

was the cutout of a piece that was replaced in that taped off area?

[f_inscreenname]

G, I started looking into what you did. How much weight did that add to your boat? I would be worried about the couple extra layers of glass alone. The absolute last thing I want is another bow heavy boat. The last one took 500+hp and adding outdrive trim to fix it.

[blacktruck]

Not doing anything special. Just re-coring the front deck and the two side near the motor box. Also plan on putting some plywood in the seat areas. Plan on using 3/8 end cut balsa and Poly resin with cabasil (sp?)to thicken it up to set the balsa in. Then going to cover it with either 1708, 24oz biaxial or something (recommendations are welcome). Anything has to be more then the newspaper they put over it in 1966.
Figure I have about 24 s/f of balsa to put down, about the same in plywood and then I have to cover it all.
How much resin should I order? I can get extra at the home depot if needed so don't worry about getting close. Don't want 5 gal of resin sitting around going bad for the next 10 years.
Recommendations on what to cover it with?

Last, I have put wood floors down for decades. Half were nail downs and the other were glue downs. I've glued down wood over wood, concrete, below grade, above grade, on walls, on ceilings, pool areas, bathrooms, steam rooms ..... And there still is no adhesive you can just buy a bucket of and trowel and set balsa in? shocking.

Love to see some pics of your 16. Like someone said, it can get contentious when people make suggestions on here.
To partially answer your question then, you can use ATC Core Bond, or ARJAY Core bonding compound for your core. Possibly Ashland Derakane epoxy. And you can contact those manufacturers for technical information, they know more than anyone and are happy to help often.

Gurit for example: http://www.gurit.com/Our-Business/Composite-Materials/Structural-Core-Materials/Gurit-Balsaflex

http://www.ashland.com/industries/co...water/derakane

Another source for guides, materials and stuff: http://netcomposites.com/

[gcarter]

Mark, I didn't do that work, that's my 22c TR foredeck. The large core cut out
was for a new pop up bow light.
My deck weighs about 500#. When I had the deck supported on small, low
scaffolds, I could easily pick up either end of the deck on my back.
My foredeck is almost as long as your boat. What you see in the picture is gel,
a lot of resin and one course of random mat, one course of Core Mat,
another course of mat, another course of Core Mat, another course of mat,
another course of Core Mat, and finally one course of 1708 bi-directional stitchmat.
It would be great if you would post some pics of the bottom of your deck so we
could all see what your facing.
It would be good (if the bottom is very course) to do some filling and fairing,
followed w/some resin and a course of random mat. If it were me I would build
my deck minus one course of mat and Core Mat.
Core Mat is very fibrous and is designed to absorb a good bit of resin, but it
won't easily saturate..My 22C deck is about 3/4" thick, and we all know it will
easily support 3 or more full size adults.
What this process will accomplish is a very easy method of coring your 16 (much easier
than trying to install end grain balsa) and at a lower price and more flexibility of materials.
I still have that deck cutout if you'd like to see more picture, I can take them tomorrow.

[gcarter]

Mark, it would be easy to build a 2' square test panel and
at a very low cost. Just start w/a sheet of plywood covered
w/polyurethane sheet so the resin doesn't stick.
Find out for yourself its strength qualities.
I wouldn't build a hull using this method, but it's great for decks.

[gcarter]

was the cutout of a piece that was replaced in that taped off area?

The loose piece is a plug I cut out of my foredeck to fit a pop up bow light.
The taped off area is where an anchor light once was mounted.
I used a carefully selected hole saw to cut a plug from the loose piece
to use to fill in the round hole hole in the deck.
But that's a whole different story.

[blacktruck]

G, I started looking into what you did. How much weight did that add to your boat? I would be worried about the couple extra layers of glass alone. The absolute last thing I want is another bow heavy boat. The last one took 500+hp and adding outdrive trim to fix it.

It would be very heavy and unnecessarily thick. Stick with Balsa or PVC foam. Whenever you get a chance to lighten a heavy boat, do it.
This is from a super durable 35 Sea Hunter, relatively light strength to weight, foam core. Saw this at the Miami Boat show, they cut this in half after dropping 20 feet from a crane on concrete.

[f_inscreenname]

Like someone said, it can get contentious when people make suggestions on here.

Man, it's not like the old days is it? I got the cold shoulder on here for months when I first got here so many years ago but damn people I’ve been on here for over a decade. No reason to get your panties in knot over a repair procedure. I’ll be honest balsa worked in this boat for at least 30+ years before the top was left off the boat outside in Maine for a few years. 1966 balsa where they didn’t seal anything. Not even with a coat of resin. And there are really only two bad spots. But I’m always looking for easier and better and cheaper. It’s like my goal in life so there can be more than one right way of doing things. Just like when I flip over my 16's deck in my front yard and re-core it there. I’m sure to some is not the way to do it but I have limited options and so far it the best one. It may be done different but it will be done right.

[QUOTE=blacktruck;667179]Love to see some pics of your 16. QUOTE]



There is a movie of the progress about half way down the page. It’s just a typical 1966, 16. It’s surprisingly in good shape for a total wreck. What I mean by that is it has few hole in it that are not original. The last time I did my Nova it was a start over deal and strip it to it birthday suit. 72 holes from screws, pilot tubes, trim tabs, etc, etc …. in the transom. I only have 2 vents to fill in that I’m sure of so far. Having that original glass intact was a huge seller to me.
http://www.resurrectionmarine.com/cu...surrection.htm
Thanks for the heads up on the sites. The issues I am having are I have such a small area. They sell 5 gal pails at 30+sf a gallon spread rate. That is a lot of left overs.

[f_inscreenname]

I was looking into foam. Really thought way back of putting down stick guides and just pouring US Composites 2 part closed cell foam, sanding it smooth to the guide sticks and then just glassing over that. If the surface is clean I know it will stick to it and it worked great for the motor cover I cored for my last 18. But I see they have sheets. Is it comparable to balsa? Like 3/8 foam is equal to or better ....