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Thread: Engine Compartment insulation

  1. #16
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    Foam Removal

    OK. That took about 5 minutes.
    I knew it was deteriorated, but it kinda jumped off the bulkhead and into the shop vac.
    No scraper needed or used. Came off so fast it gagged the shop vac.
    Good thing I went ahead. I think the 502 woulda snorted it all up at WOT.
    Bilge pump fixed (broken ground wire), and trailer complete.
    Apologies for the bad picture - shop lites went out at the end of the day.
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    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

  2. #17
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    Looks like my earlier remark about being difficult to remove was based on the belief that the original stuff was glued on like I do things .. lol
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

  3. #18
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    It's either the egg crate foam or the diamond plate. Foil is out.
    Everything else looks OK and dry in there. No soft or rotted spots.
    Kind of wierd to see that bulkhead screwed into place though. Not that it's flailing around or broken, but I'm comparing it to the way parts are attached to the Skater - and these boats are worlds apart.
    Bonus - just picked up a bunch of stainless hardware to retro fit to the trailer disc brakes. Pins, sleeves, and new bushings for all 4 claipers. Finished servicing the brakes a couple of days ago, and the original parts cleaned up well, but I'm going for the update! Oh, well, it'll come apart easy.
    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

  4. #19
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    Found something additional about the Kodiak brakes on the trailer that may be of use.
    The early calipers can be easily serviced using readily available GM parts. The kits are cheap!
    My calipers and pads are great - but good to know if you're on the road somewhere needing parts. (been there - Wyoming -winter)
    Chart is from Kodiak's service manual.
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    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by FarPoint View Post
    Found something additional about the Kodiak brakes on the trailer that may be of use.
    The early calipers can be easily serviced using readily available GM parts. The kits are cheap!
    My calipers and pads are great - but good to know if you're on the road somewhere needing parts. (been there - Wyoming -winter)
    Chart is from Kodiak's service manual.
    Someone had told me they interchanged w/some GM brakes, but I didn't know which.
    I've noticed the Kodiak sourced pads don't hold up real good.
    This is good info!
    ThanksS
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  6. #21
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    That's good info to have. I'm assuming that's for the calipers on Kodiaks 10", 5-bolt brake set?
    Any idea if those cars are good for caliper parts? The numbers listed are for the pads only.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  7. #22
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    In my 1996 22 I have the covers from the stringer tops to the side. There is also a huge drain hole thru the string so water does not get trapped. There is an access plate on each side which I leave out for ventilation.
    Cheers,
    Pismo
    1996 22 Classic
    Red with Stainless Windshield
    Stock Gen VI 502 Magnum MPI-415hp
    Stock Bravo I
    25" Mirage Plus
    74.5mph best @ 5050rpm GPS (Speedo said 80)
    27" Labbed Mirage Plus
    75.5mph best @ 4800rpm GPS (Speedo said 82)

  8. #23
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    Do most of u guyz have disc trailer breaks???
    I stuck with the drums an added my own flush
    kit to them. For me it was cheaper than converting
    to disc. Just wondering how they work out. Do they feel any different
    FISH HARD

  9. #24
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    I have discs. Much better than the drums I had before, but hard to do apples to apples on that since so much changed. (Surge to electric/hydraulic, 40 yrs old to all new, etc)
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pismo View Post
    In my 1996 22 I have the covers from the stringer tops to the side. There is also a huge drain hole thru the string so water does not get trapped. There is an access plate on each side which I leave out for ventilation.
    That just vents the same section with the engine mounts. In the earlier post you can see there is a section at the very back of the boat. My 96 doesn't have any drain holes for the back side only the same ones you mentioned.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fishermanjm View Post
    Do most of u guyz have disc trailer breaks???
    I stuck with the drums an added my own flush
    kit to them. For me it was cheaper than converting
    to disc. Just wondering how they work out. Do they feel any different
    Mine has drums as well and the original flush system. Boat came from Kentucky and trailer from Florida. I need to do all new bearings and brakes as well.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pismo View Post
    In my 1996 22 I have the covers from the stringer tops to the side. There is also a huge drain hole thru the string so water does not get trapped. There is an access plate on each side which I leave out for ventilation.
    As KMS said, not all the "compartments" under the "shelf" are drained. On my 2004 there were 2 drain holes through the stringers, but by probing the holes and checking through the top access cover, I could tell there were more than 2 "compartments". I used the access hole to drill through and effectively join a couple of the the compartments.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fishermanjm View Post
    Do most of u guyz have disc trailer breaks???
    I stuck with the drums an added my own flush
    kit to them. For me it was cheaper than converting
    to disc. Just wondering how they work out. Do they feel any different
    There is nothing wrong with drum brakes, especially on the size of our trailers. Drums have excellent stopping power, they just require more maintenance, and the adjustment should be checked regularly as they don't self adjust as well as they do on cars/trucks. I've never done a back to back comparison between drum/disc brakes, but I do remember reading an article from a brake manufacturer (somewhere) that said drum brakes actually work better on lighter trailers, because they require less hydraulic pressure to work. I.E: a heavy trailer applies more force to the actuator which would result in a higher hydraulic pressure. From what I gleaned, a trailer for a 22 could land in the lighter trailer category.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  12. #27
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    Yeller, re post #21 above (tried "Relpy w Quote" - didn't work) according to my trailer guy, the caliper kits (boots and seals at least) are interchangeable w GM as well. And cheap.
    But he did say for the early Kodiak calipers. I guess they used GM or a copy??
    And if you look at the bottom of the pic I attached, there is a part number which I think applies to their affected caliper.
    Off to see if the stainless hardware fits....
    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

  13. #28
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    Fisherman - I wouldn't bother converting to discs if you're happy w the drums.
    I have 2 trailers w 4 wheel disc, and just ordered a new aluminum trailer w 4 wheel drum brakes.
    Both disc and drums work well when regularly serviced. Keep them washed down, bled, and full of good, fresh brake fluid.
    If you run drums you can at least back the trailer up a bit on fairly flat ground without activating the brake lockout.
    With discs, they come on so fast that you either need an electric bypass wired into the back up lights on your vehicle, or the lockout switch. Even on flat ground.
    If your drum brakes need major service, don't buy all the pieces separately (cylinders, springs, shoes, etc) just buy a complete backing plate assembly. Preferably galvanized. Its cheaper and way faster to install.
    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

  14. #29
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    Thanks for that info. That part number applies to the pads, so I was curious if the calipers were the same. I already checked the pad price and it is a third the cost using a GM part. It's even better news knowing that at least some of the caliper parts are also available.



    In reference to my post #26, I tried to find the brake article I had read. Couldn't find it but did come across this:
    http://www.championtrailers.com/disc...s-drum-brakes/

    It explains the virtues of drum brakes on light trailers quite well. It uses an 18' and 22' as examples and says the 18 would be better off with drums and the 22 with discs.
    Personally, I would never go back to drums on any size trailer, simply because discs are so much simpler to change and require far less maintenance.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #30
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    Once you go heavier discs are probably the way to go. Especially here in the BC mountains. "Highway thu Hell" is where we trailer.
    The Skater is about 7,000 lbs and I'm glad to have the discs when I'm pulling that. Best thing I did on that one was to get rid of the factory surge brake set up and go w electric / hydraulic. It's also a legal requirement here. They don't pick up on it at the inspection station, but it is a requirement above 5800 GVW.
    Not sure about elsewhere, and I did see a large (38ft??) Cigarette here on a licensed and inspected Triple axle steel trailer w surge brakes. On only 2 axles. That's gotta be WAY over 5800 GVW.
    Scary stuff. I guess it was legal somewhere. Sometime.
    We the Willing, led by the Unknowing, and paid by the Uncaring
    Have been doing so much, with so little, for so long
    We are now qualified to do Anything, with Nothing at all
    (Tuk U - McKinnley Bay '82)

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