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Thread: 502 to LS3

  1. #61
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    Is your diamond plate the plastic version?
    RickS-E

  2. #62
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    Jul 2004
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    Yes it is. It holds up reasonably well to the oils and fuel, but I've scratched it up pretty good from repeatedly stepping on it while working on the motor. They put the chrome finish on the surface of the clear plastic. If it was on the underside of the clear, it would have worked for me.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  3. #63
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    Jul 2004
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    Not too much to update. A couple more parts came in. The Corvette style damper and the crank S/C pulley.
    Also picked up some plate aluminum for making the S/C and accessories mounts, as well as a chunk of round stock which will become the pulley spacer.

    S/C pulley is 8.6". The one that came with the procharger was 6.5". I went with a much larger crank pulley so I don't have to go as small on the S/C unit, to try and avoid belt slip. On the HO motor, the S/C was making 3.5~4lbs of boost. I am guessing.....and only guessing, that it will pick up a couple lbs when on the small block. The larger crank pulley should bump it up 2 or 3 lbs more, so maybe I'll be around 8~9lbs. I have absolutely no data to back this guess up with, so I could be anywhere with the boost. I won't know until I fire it up, and then I can change the unit pulley to hit the boost I want.

    I added a pic that shows both the damper that came with the motor and the Corvette damper. Side by side, it's easy to see why I didn't want to drill the original damper to take the S/C pulley. Way to thin on the metal.

    I spent almost the entire weekend trying the alternator, P/S pump and S/C in different locations, to see what would work best. I waste a lot of time overthinking things, instead of just doing. In the end, I decided on the exact same locations as I planned to use before I even started.
    I took a bunch of measurements and pulled the motor in order to start fabbing the mounting brackets. I have a good plan now, so hopefully I should be able to knock those out next weekend.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  4. #64
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    I also decided to use the stock water (circulating) pump and reuse the crank pump. It really just came down to cash. I couldn't justify buying two new pumps.
    Also ordered the flywheel and a few fuel connections. Those should arrive by the end of the week. That gives me enough parts get the motor completed, short of wiring and the computer. I am assuming, of course, that Marine Power comes through fairly soon with replacement manifolds
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  5. #65
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    Oct 2012
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    Great Winter Project!

    Thanks for sharing...
    Thank you, Patrick
    1994 18' Classic 350Mag Alpha

    Previously owned Donzis -
    1996 22' Classic, 502Mag Bravo
    1987 20' Minx, 350Mag Alpha
    1975 18' Classic, 350Chevy Volvo 280

  6. #66
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    Oct 2010
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    where did u get the drive stand/jack??? How much??? I need one
    for sure. I will be getting into gimbal service work this off
    season an my back can't take that bravo drive punishment any
    more
    Jim
    FISH HARD

  7. #67
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    Jul 2004
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    Made it myself:

    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...and&highlight=

    Can't believe I waited so long to make one. No more straining the back to re/re the drive.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  8. #68
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    Jul 2004
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    Weekly update......isn't much.

    Didn't get my mounting brackets done as planned. I bought a new aluminum cut blade for my chop saw and it was horribly out of balance. I had to chase the saw around the garage trying to make a cut. Too late on Saturday to take it back and couldn't find anyplace that sold one on the Sunday. I did find a 7.5" one, so I installed it on my tile saw. It worked, but the cutting was slooooooooooooooowwwwwwww. Better part of 4 hrs just to get the rough cutting done on the S/C bracket. The only thing I did get completed was one side of the coil relocation bracket. I'm mounting the coils low, under the exhaust. I want to get the coils off the top of the engine and putting them below the exhaust will go a long way in cleaning up the looks, plus I can use the stock wires and save a bit of $. Phone died, so no pics for now.

    Manifold update: Marine Power is making new manifolds. It's going to be a month or two until I get replacements though. In the meantime, they have no problem with me keeping the current ones to use for mock ups. They'll send me shipping label to get them back whenever I'm done.
    Customer service gets an 8 out of 10. They have always responded instantly to any email I send them, but they never keep me updated. I always have to contact them, so they lose 2 points for that. Wouldn't hesitate to deal with them again.
    Motor isn't going to be ready to run in the next couple months, so I don't mind waiting.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  9. #69
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    Thought I'd update........just to let you know there is no update.

    Had to relocate the boat and shop. Lots of organizing needing to get done at the new place before I can get the boat inside and have room to work. The new shop is only 21' deep, so I'll have to build a redneck extension for the boat.
    Could easily be the new year before I can get back at it.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  10. #70
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    Jun 2004
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    Sorry to hear that you had to move your shop. Or maybe it was a good move? Anyway, moving and reorganizing is no fun but at least you know what you have when you're done and hopefully where everything is. Good luck. Looking forward to hearing more about the swap once you get back to it.

    '07 22 Classic Shelby GT
    '96 18 Classic - sold
    '69 16 Ski & Sport - sold


  11. #71
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    Aug 2005
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    Get movin' man! Between this project and the Arneson project there is a lot to look forward to!
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  12. #72
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    Can't wait to hear about the twin turbo marinized eco-boost engine that goes in after this LS-3. J/k. Couldn't resist though
    Jay Z.
    '93 White/Teal Classic 22

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayZ View Post
    Can't wait to hear about the twin turbo marinized eco-boost engine that goes in after this LS-3. J/k. Couldn't resist though
    Don't laugh. I've wanted to see one of those in my boat too! I think it would be an awesome engine for a 16 or 18.


    Been over a month since I've added to this thread. My new storage is a tad smaller than what I had before, so it took some thought (and time) to get everything organized to maximize the space. We're between houses so the boat and my tools share the storage with our household stuff. Boat is still outside (under cover) until I build a redneck extension to the garage, but at least I have my shop set up so I can get some work done.

    Still haven't decided on a computer for the motor yet, but I picked up a factory engine harness from a CTV and stripped it down and pulled out the connectors I need, so they are ready to go once I know what connector will go on the other end.

    Harness plugs.jpg

    I finally got around to getting a machinist to make the S/C pulley spacer and some S/C bracket spacers. I also had him lightly turn the face of the damper for a smooth finish.

    Machined parts.jpg

    The damper end of the spacer was hogged out to clear the damper bolt and the pulley end has two steps. One for the pulley and the smaller one for the crank water pump.

    Spacer 1.jpg Spacer 2.jpg

    I drilled the spacer and tapped the damper for the attaching bolts. The 3 extra holes on the spacer (which I drilled and tapped) were for "insurance" bolts, so I would have 6 bolts holding on the S/C pulley. I had forgot that once the water pump is installed, the pulley would be fully "sandwiched" between the spacer and the pump flange and I can't use the extra bolts.

    Spacer 3.jpg
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  14. #74
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    Jul 2004
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    The LS3 is an all metric engine and the damper/crank bolt is an M16 which isn't easily purchased. I don't need the bolt for the damper, but I needed a long bolt or some rod, to install the damper. I don't like installing dampers by cranking them on with the bolt. Puts too much stress on the crank threads IMO, so I like to install a rod and use a nut to push the damper on. Then most of the stress is on the rod/nut instead. Only telling you all this because I couldn't find M16 rod, so I took the old damper bolt and lengthened it by cutting off the head and welding on some 1/2" rod. Well, my weld wasn't good enough and I snapped off the rod, leaving a chunk of the bolt in the crank. It was in pretty tight and I'm sure my extractor was on the verge of breaking, just before the bolt loosened up. Pretty nervous for a while, until I got it out.

    Install rod 1.jpg Install rod drilled.jpg

    Still had to get the damper on, so this time I notched the bolt and rod so they overlapped and I could get a better/longer weld. No problem the second try. I used a special, hi-tech rod that would let me know when the damper was fully seated. You can tell it worked by the missing threads.

    Install rod 2.jpg
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #75
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    Here's a pic of my coil relocation bracket.

    Coil bracket.jpg

    And one of the S/C mounting bracket that I roughly cut before Christmas

    SC bracket 1.jpg

    And finished up with bottom support and spacers installed. (The pulleys do line up. Just doesn't look like it in the pic)

    SC bracket 4.jpg SC Bracket 5.jpg

    I still to have machine a recess into the mount (where the green tape is) for the belt tensioner and I haven't decided yet whether to polish it, paint it, or hydrodip.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

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