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Thread: 502 to LS3

  1. #16
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    Love both of you guys.

    Ken

  2. #17
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    Need something for the winter

    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    I'm only doing this for you guys. Now that George is done, someone has to pick up the gauntlet.
    Thank you!
    Thanks, Patrick


    1996 22' Classic

  3. #18
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    I say leave it alone and enjoy it with the blown 502.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl C View Post
    I say leave it alone and enjoy it with the blown 502.
    ^^^^^^^
    What he says.

  5. #20
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    My suggestion to Glen was to build a monster, (say 570 in) NA engine.
    At least he'd have more room w/o the blower on it.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  6. #21
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    As long as it's SEM, I'd vote for either the LS or the monster cubes. I dig both ideas.

    Someday I'd like to do a 572, so GO LS!
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl C View Post
    I say leave it alone and enjoy it with the blown 502.
    Quote Originally Posted by tmdog View Post
    ^^^^^^^
    What he says.
    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    My suggestion to Glen was to build a monster, (say 570 in) NA engine.
    At least he'd have more room w/o the blower on it.
    Sorry to disappoint you, but Big Blocks are old school. Gotta change with the times. Out with the old and in with the new.........LS3!
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    Sorry to disappoint you, but Big Blocks are old school. Gotta change with the times. Out with the old and in with the new.........LS3!
    Can't wait to follow the thread and see how this turns out. I had been thinking about a NA LS3 for my 18. Or sell it and buy a 22. Tough decisions but your project will be fun to watch!

    '96 18 Classic
    '69 16 Ski & Sport - sold


  9. #24
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    Torque is Key

    Easier to make torque with a big block but a stroker LS with a supercharger should work nicely😁 My boat excelerates like no other boat I've had with the stock 502. Not sure a small block could duplicate without a supercharger👍
    Thanks, Patrick


    1996 22' Classic

  10. #25
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    This is an awesome idea. ...but I gotta ask are you trying to challenge George for the longest build?
    Jay Z.
    '93 White/Teal Classic 22

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip w View Post
    Can't wait to follow the thread and see how this turns out. I had been thinking about a NA LS3 for my 18. Or sell it and buy a 22. Tough decisions but your project will be fun to watch!
    I'd think a LS3 would be THE ticket for an 18.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pat McPherson View Post
    Easier to make torque with a big block but a stroker LS with a supercharger should work nicely My boat excelerates like no other boat I've had with the stock 502. Not sure a small block could duplicate without a supercharger
    I agree, you can't beat cubic inches for building torque, and I'll certainly be giving up a bunch of it (especially on the bottom end). If I was going from a stock 502 to a S/C'd LS3, I doubt I'd notice any loss, but going from a SC'd BB to a SC'd SB, I'm sure I'll notice some loss. I hope to minimize the loss, by running more boost in the LS. I'm also strongly considering a blow-off valve so I can set up the SC to (potentially) make 15lbs of boost, but open the valve at 10lbs and waste the excess. That would help to build TQ and HP sooner in the rpm range.

    Quote Originally Posted by JayZ View Post
    This is an awesome idea. ...but I gotta ask are you trying to challenge George for the longest build?
    Man....I certainly hope not.......
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  12. #27
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    Haven't done much yet with the build. Ground the loose burrs off the inside of the motor and quickly ran the grinder over the entire block just to smooth it out a bit. Nothing too detailed, just a quick grind. Then I washed it several times, blew the water off, and oiled it down. I checked all clearances on the crank and rods, just for peace of mind, then reinstalled the crank, cam, timing set and oil pump. That's as far as I've got for now.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  13. #28
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    I had already installed the oil pump and a few days later I was doing a google search for a crank pulley that would work with the Procharger and the LS3 damper and just happened to come across a thread about installing an oil pump. I consider myself lucky that I found that. Apparently, you can't just bolt on the crank driven pump. If you do, you could end up with incorrect tolerances and break the pump gear.

    So I had to loosen the pump and remove the pump cover to clearance the gears. It took three 0.008 gauges for the inner gear to crank clearance and four 0.0025 gauges for the outer gear ring to housing clearance. I only had one 0.0025 gauge so I had to sacrifice it and cut it into 4 pieces.
    The housing gets torqued while all the gauges are in place. If it's not done this way, the housing could end up too far to one side and the gears could bind.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  14. #29
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    Here's a few picks of the LS3 to see how it's made, in case anyone is interested.

    A close up pick of the bore sleeves, because George had asked about them earlier.

    Bore sleaves.jpg


    The crank driven oil pump, timing chain and chain tensioner. (Chain is a single roller)

    Oil pump.jpg


    Full windage tray

    Windage tray.jpg


    Six bolt mains. Four on the caps for the crank and two on the side of the block to tie the caps to the block. The full width mains I'm guessing are to ad rigidity to the entire block. The rods are the nicest factory rods I've ever seen. In person, it's easy to see why these are rods are superior to the forged rods in earlier motors.

    Crank.jpg
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #30
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    Heads with stainless steel exhaust valves.

    Valves.jpg


    Rocker arms are interesting. Notice the offset intake rocker and the metal that was removed to save weight.

    Rockers.jpg


    The flat top pistons which give the motor a 10.7:1 compression. Fairly high for a boosted application, but it seems they handle 10lbs of boost fairly reliably....with good tuning of course. You can also see the lifter 'holders' above the piston. The head gasket is in the way, but you can grab the 'holder' and pull out 4 lifters at a time. The way this is designed, you don't have to remove the intake or lifters to change the cam, but you do have to remove the heads if you want to get at the lifters.

    Pistons.jpg


    A pic of the valve cover. They could be a decent looking cover, but the mounts for the coils ruin them. I'm going to relocate the coils, cut the mounts off and grind and polish them. I'll then paint the indented lines......yellow of course.

    Valve cover.jpg
    Last edited by yeller; 01-16-2017 at 03:12 AM. Reason: corrected cam/lifter info
    Why is faster never fast enough.

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