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Thread: 502 to LS3

  1. #46
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    Glen, as long as the manifold ports are larger than the heads, it shouldn't make any difference since your engine is blown.
    Maybe, at worst, a little massaging will work.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  2. #47
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    Good luck. Sounds like good customer service.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Glen, as long as the manifold ports are larger than the heads, it shouldn't make any difference since your engine is blown.
    Maybe, at worst, a little massaging will work.
    I'm not at all concerned about the ports being slightly larger. I doubt there is a manifold or header on the market that mates perfectly to a head port.
    As long as the ports line up, there would be very little porting required to match them, but from some of the research I've been doing lately, a slightly larger manifold port can actually be a good thing as it can help prevent reversion.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  4. #49
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    Marine Power was set to send me a replacement set of manifolds, but I wasn't sure the new ones would be any better. They said they bolted them to a block they had in the shop and they fit. I had to re-explain to them that bolting to the block wasn't the problem, it was the mis-matched port alignment that was the issue. I asked that they double check against a gasket before sending. After a couple hours, they got back to me and said it looks like the entire run of manifolds they just made, may be faulty. I think someones going to be in a whole lot of trouble over that. That was near the end of day Friday and didn't hear back after that. I imagine there was a bit of chaos going on afterwards, (and probably will be at the start of the week) so I figured I'd wait until the middle of the week before contacting them again.

    For now, I'm at a bit of a stand-still with the LS until I get a new harmonic damper and S/C pulley. The brackets for the PS pump, alternator and S/C all have to be custom made, but I can't proceed until I know where the crank S/C pulley will sit.

    In the meantime, I pulled the 502. I'm am so happy to have it out. It took up sooooooo much room. Truth be told, the motor itself wasn't really the problem, it was everything else. The M3 procharger is a monster. The closed cooling with all the hoses consumed so much space. Even the CMI headers took up more room that stock manifolds. I just couldn't get at anything.
    When I started to put this motor in, I took a lot of time to make sure the wiring was neat and hidden as much as possible, and carefully planned out the cooling hoses to be neat and tidy. Then it turned out the heat exchanger I had was the wrong type, so I had to replace it. That required rerouting most of the hoses. Then I had a few electrical issues, but by hiding most of the wires behind the engine, it was a complete nightmare to diagnose the problems. In the end, both the wiring and the hoses ended up being a total mess.

    This time, it will be different.

    I do really want to free up as much space as I can though. You can see the hose mess in the pic below. I plan to re-solder the twin inlets on the HE (at the top of the pic) so they face each other, and that way I can run a hose straight across to a T-fitting and eliminate one hose. I'm also going to try and see if I can mount the HE on the back of the motor or transom to free up the front of the bilge of hoses. Not sure if I can make that work, though.
    Mr Carter is not going to like this one.....but I will probably get rid of the crank driven water pump as well. They are definitely easier to change impellers, but again, it pulls two more hoses around to the front of the engine. The real issue though (for me) was that it makes it a pita to change the belt because you have to remove either the pump or both hoses.
    In order to free up even more space, I've also decide to ditch the Q&Q exhaust. I do like having it around the dock and when I'm idling around talking, but it's not worth the space the diverters and Y-pipe take up. I run the mufflers, so it's not overly loud anyways, and I assume the small block will be slightly quieter than the big block.

    It sure was nice having the drive jack/stand, when I pulled the drive. First time I actually got to use it. No sore back muscles. Just unbolt the drive, set the stand in place, and roll the drive out of the way. Should have made one of these years ago. It's not really made for a BH, but easy enough to adapt it.
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    Why is faster never fast enough.

  5. #50
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    You got yourself a cool project going Glen.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  6. #51
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    Thanks Greg. I'm really looking forward to trying it out.
    I'm stalled right now because I just can't pull the trigger on a new damper and S/C pulley. I didn't count on the damper replacement and there's not a lot of options out there that accommodate an SC pulley. So far, the cheapest setup I've come up with is close to $500. With the Cdn exchange and 12% tax I'm looking at around $750. That's a lot of coin, just to be able to run an SC pulley.

    I keep trying to figure out ways/options to do it cheaper. I woke up at 3am this morning, convinced I'd thought of a solution, but when I checked my damper, I was wrong......again.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  7. #52
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    Glen, can't one of us buy it down here and send it to you? Do you still have to pay all the tax? I have competition accounts with Summit and Jegs that also give some discounts. Send me a part number.
    RickS-E

  8. #53
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    I appreciate the offer Rick. The tax is due at the border. It's our wonderful Cdn sales tax. 7% provincial and 5% federal. I get all my orders sent to a US address (at the border) and go across to pick it up. It saves me the brokerage fees. Anything over $100~150, and you usually have to pay the tax, (unless I stay in the US for a certain length of time).
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  9. #54
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    Yeller, use the trick I used to bring back my steering. I told customs I took all the parts with me to sell in the states, but , the buyer decided not to buy.
    Customs was ok with that.....until..... He told me there would NOT have been taxes because the parts were built in Vancouver DUH!!!!!!!

  10. #55
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    Not worth the risk IMO Ed. I will admit, border security scares the crap out of me.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  11. #56
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    I decided to order a stock Corvette style harmonic damper and an ATI S/C crank pulley. The pulley is designed to bolt to an ATI damper, but I believe I can get a spacer made and adapt it to the Corvette damper. I couldn't do this with the damper that came with the motor, because there isn't enough meat to tap it for bolts, and the surface isn't flat. I should get the parts later this week. So next weekend I should be able to start fabricating the mounting plates for the S/C, altenator, and P/S pump.

    I did a test fit of the motor this weekend, so I'd have an idea of where/how I could mount everything. I also made some adaptor plates for the motor mounts. The LS uses 4 mounting bolts further back than the traditional 3 bolt design.

    Another gift came by UPS this week. I ordered new fuel rails, because I can't feed each bank individually with the stock ones, and there is no return line either.
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    Why is faster never fast enough.

  12. #57
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    It looks like I won't have to cut new transom holes for the exhaust. That's a relief. They don't line up perfect, but without the Q&Q, there is enough distance that the exhaust hose can flex over enough to make it work. Still probably going to do some transom work though. I'm thinking more and more about re-positioning my trim tabs to the conventional position of parallel with the boat bottom. I didn't get a lot of time testing them mounted horizontally, but enough to know that I wasn't overly happy with how they acted.

    In the continued quest to increase the free space, I'm removing my subwoofers and will install them somewhere up front. I'll have to make a new "firewall", of course. I'll also be removing all the faux checker plate. I personally like the look, but it isn't holding up like I had hoped. Also, after seeing pics of Trueser's bilge in his Criterion, I really, really like the smooth finished look. I probably won't go to the extent he did...simply because I'm not that patient, but I'll knock down the roughest spots and give it an overall once over with the grinder.

    Really looking forward to more fiberglass dust.............
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    Why is faster never fast enough.

  13. #58
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    Glen, I like the cantilevered mounts. What material are you planning to use?

    Just an opinion...and everyone has a few......
    Why replace the "firewall? Granted, the center of the back seat needs the
    support under the deck to keep it from cracking, but out to the sides, it does nothing.
    Remember, every 22 before 1994 didn't have a firewall.
    The reason I even mention it is there's a lot of room under the rear seat that can be useful.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Glen, I like the cantilevered mounts. What material are you planning to use?
    The adaptor plates? Those are 1/4" steel. The funky curves around the bolt holes are because the piece of metal I had was 1/2" to small, so I had to overlap the template.

    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Just an opinion...and everyone has a few......
    Why replace the "firewall? Granted, the center of the back seat needs the
    support under the deck to keep it from cracking, but out to the sides, it does nothing.
    Remember, every 22 before 1994 didn't have a firewall.
    The reason I even mention it is there's a lot of room under the rear seat that can be useful.
    I have thought of that George, or even a modified version. Once I removed my speakers, I was looking at the space behind the wall and was picturing all the equipment you were able to install in that space. I do like the finished look the wall provides though, so I'm kind of on the fence. I though about modifying the wall to allow space for the batteries. Like most things I do, whatever I build, I'll probably change it later.

    On a side note, and an update to the exhaust manifold issue. Marine Power realized the error on my manifolds is on every one they just made. They are replacing mine. They just don't have any in stock at the moment.
    Time for a new shop foreman IMO if he allows an entire run of manifolds to be made without even checking one of them.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #60
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    Lots more room with the small block!

    I was pulling the battery out of my boat last night and dropped a nut and washer down. Man, the older and fatter I get, the tougher it gets to fish stuff out from under the engine...
    Thank you, Patrick
    1994 18' Classic 350Mag Alpha

    Previously owned Donzis -
    1996 22' Classic, 502Mag Bravo
    1987 20' Minx, 350Mag Alpha
    1975 18' Classic, 350Chevy Volvo 280

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