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Thread: 502 to LS3

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by 22classic View Post
    Hey Yeller!

    Clear out your inbox!
    Done. Don't know what happened. The site reloaded a bunch of PM's that were deleted long ago.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  2. #152
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    Put the motor back in for another test fit.

    Turns out my water inlet adapter plate pushes the fitting forward enough to hit the bellhousing. It will still fit, but I had to make a new fitting that clocks it a bit further. That and I wasted a $25 rad hose, because now it has been cut too short. It's all the $20 to $50 items that you don't pay attention to that really push up the cost once they are all added up.

    Not pretty, but it's not seen, so it is what it is
    Water plate.jpg


    The relocated sea strainer barely clears the block. I was off on my measurements, but luckily, not by too much.
    Seastrainer.jpg


    My big worry right now is the exhaust riser clearance. As it sits, I'll have to notch the underside of the engine hatch slightly for clearance. I originally planned on using 1" plate for my riser adapters, but the metal shop had a piece of 1.25" already cut, so I used that instead. Sure wish I had that extra 1/4" now. I'm not sure how close I am with my engine alignment, so I'm hoping that I need to lower it during alignment. If it needs to go up, I may have to ditch the risers and order the correct ones.
    Riser clearance.jpg

    Now that I've been able to have a better look at how everything fits, it's clear that the exhaust isn't going to line up with the transom holes. The holes should be higher; much like a Blackhawk boat. I really don't want to redo the transom.....again ...so I'll be doing that as a last resort only. I'm going to try a flexible exhaust hose first. If that doesn't work, then I hope to weld up some 4" exhaust tubing to fit.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  3. #153
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    Hi Glen!
    Where does that water inlet adapter go?
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    Put the motor back in for another test fit.

    Turns out my water inlet adapter plate pushes the fitting forward enough to hit the bellhousing. It will still fit, but I had to make a new fitting that clocks it a bit further. That and I wasted a $25 rad hose, because now it has been cut too short. It's all the $20 to $50 items that you don't pay attention to that really push up the cost once they are all added up.

    Not pretty, but it's not seen, so it is what it is
    Water plate.jpg


    The relocated sea strainer barely clears the block. I was off on my measurements, but luckily, not by too much.
    Seastrainer.jpg


    My big worry right now is the exhaust riser clearance. As it sits, I'll have to notch the underside of the engine hatch slightly for clearance. I originally planned on using 1" plate for my riser adapters, but the metal shop had a piece of 1.25" already cut, so I used that instead. Sure wish I had that extra 1/4" now. I'm not sure how close I am with my engine alignment, so I'm hoping that I need to lower it during alignment. If it needs to go up, I may have to ditch the risers and order the correct ones.
    Riser clearance.jpg

    Now that I've been able to have a better look at how everything fits, it's clear that the exhaust isn't going to line up with the transom holes. The holes should be higher; much like a Blackhawk boat. I really don't want to redo the transom.....again ...so I'll be doing that as a last resort only. I'm going to try a flexible exhaust hose first. If that doesn't work, then I hope to weld up some 4" exhaust tubing to fit.
    You could fly cut the adapter plate . It only needs to be as thick as the diameter of the bolt your using for a tapped hole and counter sink for a flat head screws to mount the adaptor to the manifold. I'm assuming you have though holes to the manifold and tapped holes for the risers. You could get away with 1/2 in plate and still have full thread.
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...=2&theater

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Hi Glen!
    Where does that water inlet adapter go?
    George it's for the water inlet at the transom. The part in the red circle. Despite how the pic shows it, it mounted near horizontal (to the starboard). I need it pointing to the port.
    Transom.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    You could fly cut the adapter plate . It only needs to be as thick as the diameter of the bolt your using for a tapped hole and counter sink for a flat head screws to mount the adaptor to the manifold. I'm assuming you have though holes to the manifold and tapped holes for the risers. You could get away with 1/2 in plate and still have full thread.
    It's not just for bolting the two together. I could tap the manifold to accept the riser directly if that was my only concern. There were two reasons I wanted a thicker plate. The first was that I wanted to mount an O2 sensor in the adapter. I've since changed my mind on that.......but have since started to change my mind back on that. . The second is because the manifold collector is rectangular and the riser is circular. The difference is fairly significant. By using a thicker plate, I can reduce the "abruptness" of the transition.

    Exhaust gasket 1.jpg Exhaust gasket 2.jpg
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat McPherson View Post
    Pat, you're not alone in thinking that. I completely agree. So does this guy:
    http://www.powerboatnation.com/why-d...-supercars-do/
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  7. #157
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    Supercharged LSA

    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    Pat, you're not alone in thinking that. I completely agree. So does this guy:
    http://www.powerboatnation.com/why-d...-supercars-do/
    I'm sure that I'm not the first to come across this. When I first say it several months ago I thought that it'd be great to put in my 18 but I really didn't want to drop that kind of money on repowering an 18. Glen, it might have been an option for you. I'm not sure what kind of challenges there may have been to fit it in with the Blackhawk, etc. but I'd love to see someone do this swap.

    http://gmpowertrain.com/2013_pdf/FHR...ine_010713.pdf

    '96 18 Classic
    '69 16 Ski & Sport - sold


  8. #158
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    Glen, another solution would be to block off that transom port (Merc offers the parts for about $25 US),
    and add a Stainlesss Marine through transom pickup and hose it to where you want it.
    You can find the pickpus on eBay somewhat frequently.
    Another benifit is lower raw water cooling system pressure.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip w View Post
    I'm sure that I'm not the first to come across this. When I first say it several months ago I thought that it'd be great to put in my 18 but I really didn't want to drop that kind of money on repowering an 18. Glen, it might have been an option for you. I'm not sure what kind of challenges there may have been to fit it in with the Blackhawk, etc. but I'd love to see someone do this swap.

    http://gmpowertrain.com/2013_pdf/FHR...ine_010713.pdf
    This is the motor to use.
    http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/lt4-wet-sump

    Considering GM wants $26k for an LS9, this is a steal for $16k. More hp/tq and 10k less. About $1500 more than the LSA, but a worth it imo. I've seen them for sale for around $13k

    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Glen, another solution would be to block off that transom port (Merc offers the parts for about $25 US),
    and add a Stainlesss Marine through transom pickup and hose it to where you want it.
    You can find the pickpus on eBay somewhat frequently.
    Another benifit is lower raw water cooling system pressure.
    C'mon George. You have to know me well enough by now to know I wouldn't buy a plate......I'd make one.

    I have often thought about that, but I'd add a pick up for the motor and utilize the drive pick up for the S/C's intercooler.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  10. #160
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    Been a while since I've updated this. Haven't done too much as I've been busy with other life duties.

    Daughter just got married! Congrats to me! It was an Indian wedding (as in from India, not Native) and those weddings last over a week, with multiple events/ceremonies prior to the actual wedding day. A lot of pre-planning and out of town visitors to take care of.
    I've also (finally) started to build our house. I'm acting as the general contractor, so it's been 12hr days 6 days week for the last little while.

    I don't see being able to get the boat done this summer. As Chachi said earlier, I have too many balloons in the air. My wife is NOT! happy about that. I can't even mention the word "boat" around her, without getting a lecture on selling it and getting one that "runs".

    Nonetheless, I chip away at it when I can. I had to make a new set of motor mount adapter plates. Farpoint was kind enough to get an alignment tool for me to use and with the mount adjustments bottomed out, I feel the motor still needs to go down a smidge more. Tool slides in near perfect and would be ok as is, but I'd prefer "perfect". The new plates will allow another 1/2" of adjustment.
    Also, completely ripped apart my "completed" engine harness to reroute the wiring. I didn't like how close I had it running to the alternator, (which can be a major source of EMI), so I had to reroute several sensors and while I was at it, I decided to reroute the coil wires also. Unfortunately, this puts more wires across the top of the motor, which I was trying to avoid, but I'd rather have a clean signal to the ECU than a clean looking motor.
    Still haven't fully finished the ECU and wiring. Need to add some wires for the 02 sensors and a couple toggle switches, then solder all the pins for the main connector, and assemble it in the case.
    At least I've finished up the fuel system and have the cooling system 100% figured out. Only need to add a pressurized reservoir and pick up a couple of hoses to finish it off.

    There's not a ton left to do. Still need to do the following:
    Finish the exhaust riser adaptor plates (1 day)
    Finalize the throttle linkage. (1 days)
    Enlarge oil pan (1 day)
    Build intercooler mounts and plumb S/C (1 day)
    Possibly need to build exhaust riser to muffler offsets (1 day)
    Build new "firewall" (1 day)
    Plumb P/S pump and misc. items (2 days)
    Complete the ECU, as mentioned above. (2 days)
    ......then learn to tune (?? days, weeks?, months?, ??)

    The fact that I don't get complete days to work on it anymore does make a 1 day event take several, and there is still additional days required to "beautify" the motor, but I'm going to delay the aesthetic side of things until it's up and running.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

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