Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 100

Thread: Classic 22 with Arneson

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    7,983
    Rep Power
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by 22classic View Post
    I have to agree with her that if you can fix it once that it is cheaper and better. I do spend a lot of time in rough water with the drive in the air and switching to an xr drive was going to run about 18ish and that doesn't include steering etc, etc... then I have been reading of lots of people still having trouble with xr's and gears breaking or clutch parts going out.
    XR upper and Imco shorty lower can be obtained for closer to 8 grand but you are right; It takes a little longer but they still break. If this project works out there could be an arny in my future too. I boat on the Great Lakes and also get a lot of air and no one can be perfect on the throttle.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    60
    Rep Power
    0
    Hall,
    I used a straight edge and it looks pretty darn straight. Maybe out here and there by an 1/8 to 1/16.

    i figured I will install everything and if I need to do some bottom work I'll do it then. But I never had a problem of to little bow lift when I had the KC. (King cobra)

    How would you modify the bottom if it needs it? What do you use as filler? West system or something like it?

    best,
    Matt

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    Matt,

    What year is your boat?
    An 1/8" is too much to leave alone.
    I would use 3M marine filler. It is Vinyl Ester and glass spheres. This equates to low moisture absorption potential which is good for the bottom of a boat.

    I will dig up some pics of the bottom of my boat. There was a large depression about two feet forward of the transom from the outer strake to the keel. I believe the Stbd side was 1/8" max and the Port side was up to a 1/4".
    I had to add glass on that side.

    Don't hesitate to ask questions.

    Jeff
    " Just piercing the surface"

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    This was the Port side. The Stbd side was worse.

    Jeff
    Attached Images Attached Images
    " Just piercing the surface"

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    60
    Rep Power
    0
    The boat is a 1990.

    The engine is is now out, I'll get some pics going soon.

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    What Jeff said is important. My old Minx was 5/16" and 1/4", P&S.
    My 22 is/was better as the inner strakes are longer and that seems
    to help.
    Here's a picture of the 22 w/some of the gel removed. This is typical
    bottom damage for performance boats.
    The engine mounts are directly above the end of the inner strakes.
    There was significant damage there, including delamination.
    Before you build a 100 MPH package, make sure the boat won't come
    apart.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    • File Type: jpg 52.JPG (421.3 KB, 206 views)
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    60
    Rep Power
    0
    Here is the engine in all its mess.

    There doesn't appear to be any stress cracking anywhere on the hull. I will measure with the straight edge again as I progress in the project.

    My intentions are not to build a 100mph boat but one that is very reliable and that I don't have to keep working on once its all done. (i know I'm going to have to tune it)

    I'm new to the computer and forum and I have no idea why it is showing a picture of the dash, sorry about the massive photo....

    20161112_170820.jpg20161112_170825.jpg20161113_174123.jpg20161112_170741.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    7,983
    Rep Power
    28
    Massive photos are good! Sideways ones hurt my neck . You gonna have it ready for testing in the spring?
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    While you're looking at the bottom, let me give you something to gauge by.....
    There's a hairline crack in this picture, and it's visible. It's at the top of the
    vertical side of the strake.
    Under the gel, it was delaminated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,303
    Rep Power
    24
    Nice looking drive. That must get you excited to go out to the garage.

    For pictures; google image resizers. Lots of free apps and super easy to use. Besides changing the viewing size, they greatly reduce the file size which makes it much nicer for those wanting to view your pics.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    719
    Rep Power
    0

    Great Project

    This will be an interesting thread to watch! Thanks for sharing...
    Thank you, Patrick
    1994 18' Classic 350Mag Alpha

    Previously owned Donzis -
    1996 22' Classic, 502Mag Bravo
    1987 20' Minx, 350Mag Alpha
    1975 18' Classic, 350Chevy Volvo 280

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    60
    Rep Power
    0
    progress

    After talking with Rick. You place a board off the bottom of the boat. place a 1" spacer between the bottom of the board and the extension box. At this point you measure and make sure that you have 1/2" to 1" of clearance from the water line at speed. If the extension box drags in the water it will force the bow of the boat down.... At this point you mark the height and your center line, then place your template and make sure you are on the center line of the transom. Mark your holes and drill them 90 degrees to the transom. Install the box! use1.jpguse2.jpguse3.jpg

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    7,983
    Rep Power
    28
    Box looks huge on there!
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    I have a 1.5" thick steel bar I use as a drill guide. It has a 17/32 hole in it to guide the drill. I also machined some pieces of threaded rod to a point. I screwed these into the standoff box mounting holes, position the box and gave it a good whack with plastic mallet to give me my drill points.
    That's my little Arneson story for the day kids.

    Jeff

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    60
    Rep Power
    0
    Progress

    I made an exact template of my standoff box by using painters paper and a pencil. It worked for me to place exactly where the center of the holes should start.

    I then machined a tool to assist in drilling the holes square to the transom. It worked out well. First I drilled 1/2" next will be 9/16".

    Then I drew out the inner lines of the transom plate and went to town with the sawzall. I will clean it up with a sander and then come back and west system everything in. THen finish with a good white bilge paint.

    At least the transom wasn't rotten!
    Attached Images Attached Images

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •