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Thread: Trailer Front Roller Marring Paint

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    Trailer Front Roller Marring Paint

    Recently I've noticed my front trailer roller making marks on my painted (awgrip) hull. They are not only marks but actual wear marks into the paint. Any Suggestions how to prevent this from happening?

    I'm guessing most of the wear comes from the movement of the roller against the boat as it bounces down the road. Bounces is a bit of an exaggeration, but I do know there is movement. I recently placed a cloth between the roller and the boat. It made things worse. It was a Shamwow. Wow was that a mistake. It rubbed right through the paint. I'm pissed.

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    I had the same problem w/the minx, but nearly eliminated it
    by making sure the bow eye was tied down (maybe the front
    post would need to be adjusted).
    Anyway, the bow needs to be rigid w/the trailer.
    A better solution is to eliminate the bow roller and replace it
    w/some small horizontal forward bunks.
    I can post pictures if needed.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBroccoli View Post
    Recently I've noticed my front trailer roller making marks on my painted (awgrip) hull. They are not only marks but actual wear marks into the paint. Any Suggestions how to prevent this from happening?

    I'm guessing most of the wear comes from the movement of the roller against the boat as it bounces down the road. Bounces is a bit of an exaggeration, but I do know there is movement. I recently placed a cloth between the roller and the boat. It made things worse. It was a Shamwow. Wow was that a mistake. It rubbed right through the paint. I'm pissed.
    Been there too, it sucks. Just checking--is the roller turning freely? If not it's much worse.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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    No way to really solve for this completely.

    We have been putting a wet, detail towel on the bowstop of our trailers at
    de-launch for years. Problem solved for the most part.

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    I use a turnbuckle from the trailer arm up to the bow eye to eliminate any bow bounce along with the winch holding it forward. It seems to really help with the roller scratch marks.

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

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    So, here's a question on that. I assume any trailer is going to flex a little going down the road. And that with tie downs deployed on the bow eyes and stern eyes, it might seriously (and needlessly) stress the attachment of those eyes if the trailer flexes. Further, I know people who've towed all over and never used any tie down straps at the transom, without issue. Making me wonder how important they are.

    So, is the right approach to put a single tie down below the bow eye, but skip the tie-downs at the transom? That, with the winch strap, would secure the hull in the vertical as well as horizontal, up front. But allow the stern to move up and down a bit if the trailer flexes? To avoid over-stressing the stern eye mounts? Or does trailer flex not matter?

    On the bow roller versus pad front, I have to respectfully disagree with the v-pad recommendation, at least with my boat. I've had both. The v-pad was a disaster. There are times, both during loading and unloading, where the keel rides up or down at that point, with nontrivial weight. Mine HAS TO have a roller there or it'd be toast. I even added a stainless steel scuff plate. The v-pad could be great underway on the road, but more trouble to me than it's worth for loading/launching. I suppose, for folks with unlimited budgets and time, one could mount a v-pad on a jack, aft of the roller. Use the roller for load/launch, then jack the pad up as the better riding point during towing.

    FWIW
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

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    That's a solution to rollers that don't roll--critical during launch and retrieval. But I think his primary concern is when the boat is bouncing as the trailer rolls down the road.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
    That's a solution to rollers that don't roll--critical during launch and retrieval. But I think his primary concern is when the boat is bouncing as the trailer rolls down the road.
    If set up properly it shouldn't bounce off the roller. My roller did not roll those last few inches as the bow comes forward and up a bit. That's what was scuffing my paint.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

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    I just put one of those carwash mitts over mine. Been on there for years and no scuff marks on the bow.

    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

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    Thanks for all the responses. I will try to post a pic of my situation shortly.

    I think this season has been the most noticeable with bow bouncing while on the road. Mainly due to the repair work done over the offseason to the ramp I always use. It's angle into the water is much shallower then years past. Putting the boat on the trailer at low tide is a bear. There is an awful lot of cranking to get the boat into loaded position. Once boat is on trailer, I have to slowly pull up ramp, then I hit brakes hard in parking lot to get boat to settle into correct position (it moves up trailer several inches). I even get out and check relationship of trailer bow roller and boat bow at each red light along the way home. I can usually get a crank or two on the cable to snug it up to the roller.

    Roller is free to roll. I did recently spray bunks with bunk eze. Hopefully that helps get the boat into the correct position in the first place.

    Conquistador_del_mar - Can you post a pic of your turnbuckle set up?

    Thanks,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conquistador_del_mar View Post
    I use a turnbuckle from the trailer arm up to the bow eye to eliminate any bow bounce along with the winch holding it forward. It seems to really help with the roller scratch marks.
    A ratchet strap would accomplish the same thing, no?

    Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBroccoli View Post
    Thanks for all the responses. I will try to post a pic of my situation shortly.

    I think this season has been the most noticeable with bow bouncing while on the road.
    Conquistador_del_mar - Can you post a pic of your turnbuckle set up?

    Thanks,
    I will try to take a picture tomorrow. Not being able to get your boat fully loaded to the bow stop roller is a big problem from my experience. No real suggestions here other than we load with me driving the boat forward as my wife cranks the winch until seated against the roller.

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

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    Here you go with the turnbuckle on my 23' Donzi center console boat trailer and another concept using a second winch like my 23' Eliminator trailer. I hope this helps. Bill
    Attached Images Attached Images

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

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    Personally, I believe the boat is much more rigid than a trailer and tying the boat
    to the trailer isn't a concern. The combination of the boat and the trailer will move
    very little.
    Maybe aluminum trailers are a bit more flexible than a steel one. My experience of
    loose boats on trailers will beat up the bottom of the boat and damage the gel.
    BTW, I really like the stainless Boat Buckles mounted on the bunk ends and ties
    down the transom.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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