Need a cam recommendation for a Ford 302 HO

[mattyboy]

Thank you personally Matty for a reasoned, non-know-it-all reply.

John C

no problem

[turbo2256]

Hey Mat woundering what happened to my 66 16?

[mattyboy]

Not sure where it is today last time I saw it was at the LGDCC dust off about 10 yrs ago

[John C in PA]

Resolved: It's a flat tappet cam.

[turbo2256]

The valley of the block should have the features required to use roller lifters. Can you get a picture of the valley?

[turbo2256]

Not sure where it is today last time I saw it was at the LGDCC dust off about 10 yrs ago

Sometimes wounder just how safe it would have been if I had installed the twin turbo 302 that i would have built to install in it.

[Turbochad]

Pretty radical move. I kinda thought so when I saw the tie-in plates on either side of the opening. Do you think any stiffness was lost?

John C

I don't think so. it is nice to be able to access the front without taking the motor out.

[Turbochad]

The valley of the block should have the features required to use roller lifters. Can you get a picture of the valley?

The OMC blocks are non roller blocks. Here is mine. John's is the same year boat.

[John C in PA]

Okay folks, I could use some more input. My motor is dead, so dead that the block doesn't have a core value. So, I decided to go with a remain marine motor. I like ATK (sold by Summit) and MichiganMotorz.

1) Both suppliers sell long blocks. Anybody know who sells reman short blocks (my heads are only a few years old)?

2) my motor is an HO which has a different (slightly hotter) cam than a non-HO. I don't know if my cam is worn since I have no specs for so I have asked both motor suppliers which cam is included.

3) i have no intention of going slower (std. cam) so I want to go with a Lunati cam (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1641&gid=287), a Ford Racing dual plane aluminum manifold and a Holley 450 cfm 4-barrel carb (302 calibrated per Holley techie).

4) the only concern I have is warranty with a replacement cam. ATK is 18 months after shipping and Michigan is 12 months. Both won't cover damage from parts they didn't install. But I believe I have enough self-control to somewhat baby the motor with the Lunati cam until the warranty is up.

Your thoughts? Money is tight on social security so I'm not going for a stroker or other cam manufacturer except Comp, no roller lifters or rockers, just hoping to get back on the water this season with a little better performance.

Thx boys, John C

[Turbochad]

Okay folks, I could use some more input. My motor is dead, so dead that the block doesn't have a core value. So, I decided to go with a remain marine motor. I like ATK (sold by Summit) and MichiganMotorz.

1) Both suppliers sell long blocks. Anybody know who sells reman short blocks (my heads are only a few years old)?

2) my motor is an HO which has a different (slightly hotter) cam than a non-HO. I don't know if my cam is worn since I have no specs for so I have asked both motor suppliers which cam is included.

3) i have no intention of going slower (std. cam) so I want to go with a Lunati cam (http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1641&gid=287), a Ford Racing dual plane aluminum manifold and a Holley 450 cfm 4-barrel carb (302 calibrated per Holley techie).

4) the only concern I have is warranty with a replacement cam. ATK is 18 months after shipping and Michigan is 12 months. Both won't cover damage from parts they didn't install. But I believe I have enough self-control to somewhat baby the motor with the Lunati cam until the warranty is up.

Your thoughts? Money is tight on social security so I'm not going for a stroker or other cam manufacturer except Comp, no roller lifters or rockers, just hoping to get back on the water this season with a little better performance.

Thx boys, John C

if you go crate I would just do the ATK stage 1 and call it good. The cam spec is better than stock and close to the Lunati. You get the warranty and get back on the water this year. And it's a roller cam motor!

[mattyboy]

I would go crate long block and try and sell the old heads intake and carb buy a new intake and carb and re use all your tinware the stage 1 looks like a good choice

[John C in PA]

I considered the Stage 1 motor but it's not specified marine. I don't know, besides the brass freeze out plugs, if the other "marine" parts are real or sales baloney. See:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hme-dma4/overview/. My mechanic also said a marine block should have 4 bolt mains.

I've got some questions into Summit about the specs, including if the motor above has a roller cam.

I'm ready to write off this season to do this right. Money remains a priority so bear with me.

Thx, John C

[mattyboy]

they should have a marine motor as well close to the same specs

[Turbochad]

I considered the Stage 1 motor but it's not specified marine. I don't know, besides the brass freeze out plugs, if the other "marine" parts are real or sales baloney. See:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hme-dma4/overview/. My mechanic also said a marine block should have 4 bolt mains.

I've got some questions into Summit about the specs, including if the motor above has a roller cam.

I'm ready to write off this season to do this right. Money remains a priority so bear with me.

Thx, John C

The main practical difference is the head gasket set (marine specific) and the brass plugs. You also need to check the cam spec to make sure you don't have too much overlap, causing reversion, but the Phase 1 cam should be fine. If you are going to get a stock spec marine long block and change out the cam you may consider building the motor yourself. It is a fairly simple build with the cam setup being the most complicated part (not that complicated). You can get a core block cheap and go from there. The crank, rods and pistons are all stock ford and nothing special. If you shop around for a late model 5.0 ford explorer motor you can rebuild that into a nice marine 302. They have the GT40P heads which flow better than the ones you have now and they are a roller motor which will breathe better than a tappet motor with comparable cams.

I have a brand new 400cfm Holley 4brl ford calibrated carb if you need one. I had it on my boat for one trip before rebuilding the motor and putting on a 600. The 400 is the right one for a motor with stock heads.

Chad

[John C in PA]

The main practical difference is the head gasket set (marine specific) and the brass plugs. You also need to check the cam spec to make sure you don't have too much overlap, causing reversion, but the Phase 1 cam should be fine. If you are going to get a stock spec marine long block and change out the cam you may consider building the motor yourself. It is a fairly simple build with the cam setup being the most complicated part (not that complicated). You can get a core block cheap and go from there. The crank, rods and pistons are all stock ford and nothing special. If you shop around for a late model 5.0 ford explorer motor you can rebuild that into a nice marine 302. They have the GT40P heads which flow better than the ones you have now and they are a roller motor which will breathe better than a tappet motor with comparable cams.

I have a brand new 400cfm Holley 4brl ford calibrated carb if you need one. I had it on my boat for one trip before rebuilding the motor and putting on a 600. The 400 is the right one for a motor with stock heads.

Chad

Chad, do you know if stock 302 Ford heads can handle a 0.483" lift? Where did you connect the vacuum secondaries for adequate vacuum?

John C