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Thread: Possible Cone Clutch Failure???

  1. #16
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    Beautiful day on the lake. Wish I wasn't having to tow er out.

    So here is a pic of the drive oil. I spoke to the mechanic that serviced the drive last year and he uses GL5.
    I was then told today by my friend that 30 wt not synthetic oil is the best way to go.
    Looks milky right??

    20160627_111121.jpg20160627_133237.jpg

  2. #17
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    bad seal, hopefully it is only the shift seal not the prop shaft seals I use merc blue synth 90w the only Volvo that grenaded on me was running 30 wt
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

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  3. #18
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    Going to post pics soon of the cone. Cant see the grooves that well.

    How hard is it to re-seal the entire drive. I dont know how to find out where the leak would be.

  4. #19
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerk View Post
    Going to post pics soon of the cone. Cant see the grooves that well.

    How hard is it to re-seal the entire drive. I dont know how to find out where the leak would be.
    I would put it back together and pressure test it then with soapy water find where it is leaking

    find out what service was done and did they use like amsoil syn which has no color so it will look muddy after use.. I used it once but found it hard to see on the dipstick so I only use the blue stuff now

    if it is water it should separate after some time

    the shift seal is not to hard the rest not so much
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  6. #21
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    doesn't look bad
    Attached Images Attached Images
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  7. #22
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    Wow that is crazy. Is that from the 30 wt?

    How do I pressure test it?

    Matty, thanks again, you have been very helpful

  8. #23
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    borrow a pressure tester from a mech empty drive pump up to like 12 -15 lbs and if seals are good it will stay make sure the dipstick is tight have a spray bottle of soapy water spray around the shifter flange the prop shaft and where the upper and lower meet any leak pressure will drop and soapy water will bubble at the leak
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  9. #24
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    Pardon me here, but not sure what you mean by an empty drive pump.
    Sorry.
    Any clarification would be very helpful

  10. #25
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    You need a pressure tester usually a hand held pump with a gauge and a hose with a screw that goes into the bottom of the drive where you drain the oil you are filling the drive with air under pressure to see if the drive holds pressure no leaks so to make room for the air the drive must be drained of all oil. You pump about 12-15 lbs psi into the drive and it should stay there don't pump any more than that or you will blow any seals that were good to begin with . The gauge should hold pressure if it doesn't pump it up to 12-15 psi and spray the soapy water , air with make the soap bubble , spray around the shifter flange ,upper lower joint , and prop shaft
    Where there are bubbles you have a leak

    Does that make it clearer

  11. #26
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    Perfectly thank you.
    The part that was not was just the pump.
    Think I got it figured out.

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