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Thread: Trailer refresh

  1. #1
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    Trailer refresh

    I've never liked the way my trailer frame stops short and the bunks hang way off the back. I know this is common, but it doesn't look right to me.

    Trailer.jpg

    I can't justify buying a new trailer, so I picked up a couple I-beam end cuts from a trailer manufacturer and some C-channel from a metal shop. I had a guy lined up to weld if for me, but he got too busy and I got impatient. I only have a gas welder and a stick welder and I had never welded aluminium before. After some internet searching I found a bit of information that you can stick weld aluminium. Just a bit though. 90% of the info out there was that you can't stick weld aluminium. Well....won't know for sure until I try. I picked up some rods and burnt 4 or 5 practicing, then went for it. Now I am not what you could call an experienced welder. I'm about as amateur as you can get. I weld something about once a year; if that. After what I had read, I was surprised at how good my welds were. It really wasn't that big of a deal. Yes, they looked like crap; but they did get better as I progressed and I was grinding them down anyways. I'm sure someone that welds regularly could get a good bead going in no time. Some may feel this is a waste of time because it has no structural integrity and is only cosmetic, but it bothered me. Overall, I'm happy with what I ended up with.

    Trailer2.jpg

    Trailer3.jpg

    I then added center bunks to help guide boat and replaced the stock front V-guide and roller with a pair of V-blocks and put new carpet on everything. I also installed a new winch. Winch is a beast. 2spd 3200lb, pulled the boat up the bunks on flat ground with ease.

    Bunks.jpg

    Winch.jpg

    I then cleaned up the frame using Scotchbrite pads. (An idea I got from George Carter that is quick, easy, and gets good results). I used my jitterbug sander with the Scotchbrite and it took me no time to get the rails looking new again.

    Rail.jpg

    Final touch was to add the all important Donzi markings.

    Logo~small.jpg
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  2. #2
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    I think it turned out great

    good job

  3. #3
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    Nice job Glen.

    Ken

  4. #4
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    Nice job Glen.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  5. #5
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    For a guy who does not weld, you did a darn nice job. Also some good ideas on the trailer bunks.
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    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  6. #6
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    I hope your welding is better than mine.
    Had to get the Seawolf back to Toronto and my welder did not show up to finish welding up the trailer.
    No problem how hard is it to weld?
    Finished it myself . On the way back to Toronto towing the Seawolf I saw a few cars behind me swearing. I look in the rear view mirror and see the Seawolf leaning at a 60 degree angle . All the uprights I welded fell off.
    Seems there is a thing about proper penitration...Ed

  7. #7
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    Really, a nice job on the trailer!

    Your trailer came out great. I'm envious of you guys that have the time to do these things. Somehow life gets in the way with two businesses and a 5 year old. Someday I will once again have time to do these kinds of projects. Congrats on the way it came out.

    '07 22 Classic Shelby GT
    '96 18 Classic - sold
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  8. #8
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    Thanks for the compliments.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Donnelly View Post
    I hope your welding is better than mine.
    Had to get the Seawolf back to Toronto and my welder did not show up to finish welding up the trailer.
    No problem how hard is it to weld?
    Finished it myself . On the way back to Toronto towing the Seawolf I saw a few cars behind me swearing. I look in the rear view mirror and see the Seawolf leaning at a 60 degree angle . All the uprights I welded fell off.
    Seems there is a thing about proper penitration...Ed
    My first couple of rods I wasn't getting the penetration and I had visions of what you went through. I welded at a higher amperage than what was recommended to make sure I had the penetration and it seemed to work well. Like I said though, the extension is strictly cosmetic and don't believe it has enough structural integrity to tie the back of the boat to. The welds are fairly porous, so they're not as strong as if you used an argon gas and mig or tig.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    Thanks for the compliments.

    My first couple of rods I wasn't getting the penetration and I had visions of what you went through. I welded at a higher amperage than what was recommended to make sure I had the penetration and it seemed to work well. Like I said though, the extension is strictly cosmetic and don't believe it has enough structural integrity to tie the back of the boat to. The welds are fairly porous, so they're not as strong as if you used an argon gas and mig or tig.
    If tying the boat to the rear of the trailer is an issue, you could always "V" groove your welds and have someone who makes a living at welding re-do it.

  10. #10
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    One of the first things I did after buying my boat was to modify the winch post so the boat could come all the way forward onto the bunks. Tongue weight is still within 10%.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  11. #11
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    Nice trailer.

    I like the cover too!
    1967 Ski Sporter (sold)
    2004 40th Anniversary Edition 18

  12. #12
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    I like the two front bunks. Are they 4X4 boards??? And the center two bunks are nice also. My trailer is similar, just overhauled the brake system ( all new )
    the front V support is next. It's plastic an has scratched the hull for the last time
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    FISH HARD

  13. #13
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    Better pic of what I have
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    FISH HARD

  14. #14
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    Observation

    If your trailer is like mine and floats you may want to put something softer on the top edge of the welded end piece you installed. The majority of the time I drive my boat onto my trailer and on days when it gets windy and rough at the ramp my boat would most likely come in contact with the leading edge on that end piece. My trailer floats because its aluminum has 2 large cypress bunks and 4 tires. I installed soft rubber bumpers over the hard plastic material that came installed on the trailers cross members because it made scratch marks on the keel.

    You did a very nice job modifying your trailer and adding the center bunks, also like the front V blocks for the keel to sit on as well.
    Bob
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHACHI View Post
    If tying the boat to the rear of the trailer is an issue, you could always "V" groove your welds and have someone who makes a living at welding re-do it.
    Plan was to have a "professional" weld it, but I got impatient. Not too worried about tying boat to the extension. I never had that option before, so I can get by without. They're not in the pics, but I've always had S/S rings attached to the bunks that I use for straping down the boat

    Quote Originally Posted by Carl C View Post
    One of the first things I did after buying my boat was to modify the winch post so the boat could come all the way forward onto the bunks. Tongue weight is still within 10%.
    Did the same thing. Only had about 50lbs on the tongue when I got it.

    Quote Originally Posted by jl1962 View Post
    Nice trailer. I like the cover too!
    Thanks. Had tons of compliments on the cover. It protects well. Only wish I'd done it in gray. The black gets super hot when I leave the Canadian ice belt and head south.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fishermanjm View Post
    I like the two front bunks. Are they 4X4 boards??? And the center two bunks are nice also. My trailer is similar, just overhauled the brake system ( all new )
    the front V support is next. It's plastic an has scratched the hull for the last time
    Your V-support is nearly identical to the one I got rid of....and for the same reason. Front and center bunks are 2x4 cedar. Front ones are glued and screwed together. I installed carriage bolts through the first "layer" of 2x4 so I could bolt the completed bunk to the trailer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby D View Post
    If your trailer is like mine and floats you may want to put something softer on the top edge of the welded end piece you installed. The majority of the time I drive my boat onto my trailer and on days when it gets windy and rough at the ramp my boat would most likely come in contact with the leading edge on that end piece. My trailer floats because its aluminum has 2 large cypress bunks and 4 tires. I installed soft rubber bumpers over the hard plastic material that came installed on the trailers cross members because it made scratch marks on the keel.

    You did a very nice job modifying your trailer and adding the center bunks, also like the front V blocks for the keel to sit on as well.
    Bob
    Mine floats too. It can be interesting when I retrieve in the river. The current has pulled the trailer under the dock more than a few time. The softer protection you have on yours is a great idea. I installed the pvc only as a psychological protection. In reality, it's unlikely I'll ever be launching on a ramp shallow enough that the bow comes anywhere near that part of the trailer. The ramps I use are pretty steep.
    I like the shine on your trailer. I was too lazy to try and polish mine like that.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

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