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Thread: Faded red stripe on 2000 18 foot Classic

  1. #31
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    If it is to be paint, I'd suggest a single stage acrylic/polyurethane automotive paint like
    BASF R-M UNO HD. Since it's an automotive paint, it's blendable unlike Imron, yet still has the strength and durability of being an acrylic/polyurethane like Imron.
    I painted my former Minx in this paint more than ten years ago. I've seen it recently and it still looks new. A quart w/catalyst and reducer is probably in the $350-$400 range...maybe a bit more.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3rdDonzi View Post
    I would think that surely sombody in the Boston area does it.
    3d
    You're probably right. I was hoping to do it here on the Cape rather than lugging the boat up there.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    If it is to be paint, I'd suggest a single stage acrylic/polyurethane automotive paint like
    BASF R-M UNO HD. Since it's an automotive paint, it's blendable unlike Imron, yet still has the strength and durability of being an acrylic/polyurethane like Imron.
    I painted my former Minx in this paint more than ten years ago. I've seen it recently and it still looks new. A quart w/catalyst and reducer is probably in the $350-$400 range...maybe a bit more.
    George, thanks very much for the detailed info. If I end up painting it, this sound great.

  4. #34
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    Capevetts, I'm lookin into vinyl also I'm in riverside ri. Let me know what u find
    i will do the same. Maybe we can find a two for one deal
    FISH HARD

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishermanjm View Post
    Capevetts, I'm lookin into vinyl also I'm in riverside ri. Let me know what u find
    i will do the same. Maybe we can find a two for one deal
    I will let you know. I have a vinyl guy that was recommended to me that lives here on the Cape. He says he can do it but not until the first week of May because he's in Fla. now. I also have a paint guy who may be able to do it. I was hoping to get it done and get the boat in the water by the end of April. I should have some info for you soon.

  6. #36
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    I had a red deck stripe on my 22 that was repainted before I bought the boat. Good paint definitely holds up better than gel on the deck. I have red stripes on my magnum (pictured) which is PPG and has held up well after 5 years. However, I will say I'm a fan of vinyl which I was skeptical of before trying it. The "Starfire" lettering is vinyl which is very durable and very inexpensive versus paint in my application. I had to replace one letter that got marred and it cost $10. My only concern for vinyl on your boat is the surface prep required to get the stripe to hold well, my letters went on a fresh painted surface.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1978 Magnum Starfire "MAYHEM"
    1994 Donzi 22 Classic 540/Blackhawk - Sold
    1982 Midnight Express 32 SS

  7. #37
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    Looks nice. I did wonder about how well the vinyl will hold when you're going 60-70 mph.

  8. #38
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    After I replaced the deck on my boat, the best price I could find to repaint my deck/boot stripes and engine hatch logo was $3000. Vinyl was $175 (not installed). I installed it myself. It was easy to do and adhesion was not an issue. Everyone is surprised to find out it is vinyl. They always think it is paint.
    While doing all the work for my engine swap, I damaged the vinyl is several places, so I am replacing it. I can't justify $3000 for paint. I thought about painting it myself. I believe the paint would cost me around $600. I can justify $600, but not the time it would take. I'm tired of working on my boat. I just want to use it.
    If you can get over the stigma attached to using vinyl, it is an excellent option. You can replace it a multitude of times compared to the cost of paint. Vinyl won't last as long as paint, but it is easily and economically replaceable.

    If money and/or time are not a concern, then I'd paint. If you want the same look as paint and aren't concerned with redoing it in 4~5yrs, then go vinyl. I eventually plan to paint mine, but for now, vinyl is an excellent option for me.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  9. #39
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    I'm in the process of restoring the gloss to my transom. The 3m compound is amazing followed by there glaze. I am going to clear coat for UV protection. when I looked for paint Awlgrip and Imron were not recommended for below waterline applications. I found a 1 part clear from the bottom paint store. It can also be applied by the tip and roll method. just waiting for the weather to cooperate Hopefully it will work out


    http://www.bottompaintstore.com/tops...630_13804.html
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...=2&theater

  10. #40
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    Thanks for the replies. I have one vinyl guy ready to do it the 1st week in May. A paint guy says he can bring out the shine by spraying clear coat on it?

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    I'm not sure you can clear over gelcote... and yes, my vinyl lettering has had no issues with 80+ speeds.
    1978 Magnum Starfire "MAYHEM"
    1994 Donzi 22 Classic 540/Blackhawk - Sold
    1982 Midnight Express 32 SS

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    I'm in the process of restoring the gloss to my transom. The 3m compound is amazing followed by there glaze. I am going to clear coat for UV protection. when I looked for paint Awlgrip and Imron were not recommended for below waterline applications. I found a 1 part clear from the bottom paint store. It can also be applied by the tip and roll method. just waiting for the weather to cooperate Hopefully it will work out


    http://www.bottompaintstore.com/tops...630_13804.html
    Joseph, This is interesting to me. If I bought the clear coat, what kind of prep work would I need to do before applying it? Have you done it yet? I assume I would have to strip the wax that's on the stripe now?

    The vinyl guy I was referred to said he can't do it and the guy that was going to clear coat it has disappeared. That's Cape Cod for you!!

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDonziM View Post
    I'm not sure you can clear over gelcote... and yes, my vinyl lettering has had no issues with 80+ speeds.
    I believe Marshall is correct. Clears are designed to work in a "system"...to be applied over the base it was designed for.
    There are clear gels, but they tend to turn yellow (I think) after some time.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  14. #44
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    I don't think you can clear over gel coat like paint

    s0mewhere in my boats history someone cleared over the vinyl letters (name) on transom

    what a mess

    I had to wet sand the area to remove all the clear

    it was yellowing and chipping

  15. #45
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    Thanks for the replies. I guess the clear coat is out. I think I will probably give it a good buffing and live with it this summer. I do have a guy that can paint it in September when I pull it.

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