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Thread: What can anyone tell me about a closed coola

  1. #16
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    I'm definately in the cooler camp.
    I really like this Monitor Systems remote high performance cooler good for 700 HP.
    https://www.perfprotech.com/high-per...product/246892 Larger coolers are available, up to 1,200 HP.
    When you start considering higher HP systems, only half systems are available.
    A full system including exhaust manifolds and risers would require a pretty large cooler.
    The way I installed mine remotely where it's partly under the rear seat and
    w/a Meziere 50 GPM remote coolant pump really cleaned up the front of the engine.
    Also, the crank driven raw water pump makes service simple.
    I have a red engine!

    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  2. #17
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    Another advantage of this system is the remote mounted engine thermostat which allows
    full flow bypass coolant circulation until engine temperature reaches operating temperature.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  3. #18
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    That is impressive

    I like where you mounted the system

  4. #19
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    Thanks!
    If you want to see a little more, take a look here:
    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...serious/page84
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost View Post
    Yeller, any idea how many hours you put on yours over 18 years? Sounds like you were very disciplined and did really well with it. Kudos on that.
    Tough to say, but I used it a TON! Often 7 days a week. Pretty much every single sunny day after work and weekend for the 1st 5 or 6 years, then at least 2 or 3 times a week after that. Took the motor out after 10~12 years and when I took it apart, there was absolutely no corrosion. The jet drive, impeller, intake, exhaust and risers were aluminum and they were on the boat after 18yrs and water ports on exhaust were spotless. I always flushed when I got home and hosed down everything, including the interior and dash. When I pulled the motor (after 10yrs) even my homemade exhaust pipes, which went from riser to transom, were still good and they were just made from standard 3" automotive exhaust pipe.


    Sounds like I'm alone..............but you'll never convince me that CC is necessary for a trailered boat that is flushed after every use.
    I will agree that it adds resale value to a coastal boat.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  6. #21
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    I think one thing to consider is newer engines will have greater amounts of
    aluminum in their construction. Many newer engines will have aluminum
    heads and blocks. In that case, it's not simply a matter of rinsing and flushing.
    Instead, it's a matter of not creating a battery. A cooler and a good anti-freeze
    will guarantee that doesn't happen.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  7. #22
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    I've survived with just flushing on other boats but since I'm doing everything else ....... I might as well

    now on the choice..... is what system ?

    I dont really wanna hang it on the engine so I will look at what is posted above

    thank you all for input

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    I think one thing to consider is newer engines will have greater amounts of
    aluminum in their construction. Many newer engines will have aluminum
    heads and blocks. In that case, it's not simply a matter of rinsing and flushing.
    Instead, it's a matter of not creating a battery. A cooler and a good anti-freeze
    will guarantee that doesn't happen.
    I had aluminum exhaust manifolds and they were near perfect internally after 18yrs and exhaust is usually the 1st thing that goes on a motor. I'd have to disagree on aluminum being an issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by JParanee View Post
    I've survived with just flushing on other boats but since I'm doing everything else ....... I might as well

    now on the choice..... is what system ?

    I dont really wanna hang it on the engine so I will look at what is posted above

    thank you all for input
    Fine....go with the masses...


    If you get a system from where George did, you can't go wrong.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    I had aluminum exhaust manifolds and they were near perfect internally after 18yrs and exhaust is usually the 1st thing that goes on a motor. I'd have to disagree on aluminum being an issue.

    Fine....go with the masses...


    If you get a system from where George did, you can't go wrong.

    Thanks Yeller

    im still debating but I think I might do it

    I've already spent a chunk on the dual ram steering and all new controls etc so I'm easing into it

    I will be calling were George got his system and CP performance and doing some more research

    CP has this very nice polished stainless tank system but it's big money

  10. #25
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    So besides a kit I need to buy a water pump ?

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by JParanee View Post
    So besides a kit I need to buy a water pump ?
    I know that the Merc kit does not require one , all it is is a tank , bracket or two and some different hoses.
    Now, the stuff that George is talking about , I'm not sure . I know he will advise you though !

    As for George's remark about the increasing use of dissimilar metals in engine construction AND yellers remarks about his success with flushing , they're all valid remarks. So I wouldn't want to take away from either's POV.

    Interestingly , here's what I found out some time ago . When I ordered the new power package for my ST T I really wanted FWC but I didn't think it would fit in the very limited space available. The guy who supplied my package said that , without explaining why , he ordered all of his engines with the factory FWC option anyway .
    I later found out , once I got my hands on the owner's manual , that the intake manifold is alloy so having a raw water cooled engine , much less one that stays in the water for months would have been a disaster without it.

    Then I subsequently find out that the intake manifolds on the Merc 502s are also alloy and over on OSO I saw a thread similar to this one where a few people who were also religious flushers but there was a spot here and there that the salt pocketed in and ended up doing severe damage .
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgan's Cloud View Post
    As for George's remark about the increasing use of dissimilar metals in engine construction AND yellers remarks about his success with flushing , they're all valid remarks. So I wouldn't want to take away from either's POV.
    The water crossover in aluminum intake manifolds are particularly susceptible to corrosion and guess where the water goes when it corrodes through? There's not much salvageable when that happens.

    You can use a conventional circ pump w/the Monitor system (see the links to illustrations on the web page), but I chose to go w/the Meziere remote pump for two reasons:
    1) I wanted to clean up/and remove "stuff" from the front of the engine.
    2) Having an electric pump w/a constant flow provides a few unique advantages over
    a belt driven pump. First, there's never any hot spots in the engine and would have
    to contribute to a lower chance of detonation. Second, the engine temp never skyrockets when you chop the throttle after a long hard run, instead the engine temp will slowly drop back to normal.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgan's Cloud View Post
    I know that the Merc kit does not require one , all it is is a tank , bracket or two and some different hoses.
    The Merc kit would have to assume the purchaser already has a pump or is going to purchase one. Can't circulate water without one.

    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    The water crossover in aluminum intake manifolds are particularly susceptible to corrosion and guess where the water goes when it corrodes through? There's not much salvageable when that happens.
    I also used the same aluminum intake for the 1st 10~12 years and it was in great shape when I removed it. I only change manifolds because I installed a LT1 and needed a different intake.

    As you can tell....I'm pretty stubborn on this subject.


    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    You can use a conventional circ pump w/the Monitor system (see the links to illustrations on the web page), but I chose to go w/the Meziere remote pump for two reasons:
    1) I wanted to clean up/and remove "stuff" from the front of the engine.
    2) Having an electric pump w/a constant flow provides a few unique advantages over a belt driven pump. First, there's never any hot spots in the engine and would have to contribute to a lower chance of detonation. Second, the engine temp never skyrockets when you chop the throttle after a long hard run, instead the engine temp will slowly drop back to normal.
    Exact reasons I originally installed an electric pump. It crapped out though, so I'm switching to a conventional pump. It died because the previous owner disassembled it to powder coat it and installed the seal in backwards. I'm switching to conventional because Meziere recommended against using an electric pump with the HP I'm running. They couldn't guarantee their pumps could keep the motor cool when running at sustained rpms of 4000 and up. I don't see it as a problem in George's application, or with a HP500. I'm also running a S/C which will add heat over a N/A motor.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by JParanee View Post
    im still debating but I think I might do it
    If you're not sure which way to go, I'd recommend doing it. It'll be worth the peace of mind it gives you and it'll add value to prospective buyers when that time comes.
    It's also nice not to have to worry if you can't flush immediately after a run.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    I also used the same aluminum intake for the 1st 10~12 years and it was in great shape when I removed it. I only change manifolds because I installed a LT1 and needed a different intake.
    All I can say is, you've been fortunate. I've known several folks that lost engines for this reason.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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