What can anyone tell me about a closed coola

[JParanee]

Gonna be running my boat in salt a bit

Growing up around it I know it's the Devils piss

please show me some systems and tell me the best route to go

thank you

[joseph m. hahnl]

What motor are you running? I run a full cooler with stainless risers. Some times you can pick up the cooler on e-bay for short money. You'll need a cold water tee to feed the risers, elbows to feed the exhaust manifold with coolant, a duel chamber thermostat housing, about 10 feet of blue wire hose and block off gaskets for the risers. There's a few different types of brackets for mounting it on the engine. The easiest method is the bracket that mounts to the thermostat housing. Totally worth the money and aggravation Merc made a long and short bracket that bolts to the heads accessory hole. You can mount the cooler on the front or the back of the motor with them. It depends what cooler you have so be aware of that. Those brackets are no longer made and the Power steering and alternator bracket wont work with it mounted on the front when using center riser manifolds.

[JParanee]

What motor are you running? I run a full cooler with stainless risers. Some times you can pick up the cooler on e-bay for short money. You'll need a cold water tee to feed the risers, elbows to feed the exhaust manifold with coolant, a duel chamber thermostat housing, about 10 feet of blue wire hose and block off gaskets for the risers. There's a few different types of brackets for mounting it on the engine. The easiest method is the bracket that mounts to the thermostat housing. Totally worth the money and aggravation Merc made a long and short bracket that bolts to the heads accessory hole. You can mount the cooler on the front or the back of the motor with them. It depends what cooler you have so be aware of that. Those brackets are no longer made and the Power steering and alternator bracket wont work with it mounted on the front when using center riser manifolds.

Blue motor




I ve maintained a lot of motors in the salt and I am able to flush very quickly so I'm debating wether it's worth it

my last big block boat that I only ran in the salt I would hang on davits and flush after every run and I was always fine

I also ran big Yamaha 2 strokes for many years in the salt and flushed them after every use and they were always fine

the Yamaha OX 66's were a salt water series so I know they were meant for the salt but still like I said salt water is an sob

this boat will probable be run 50/50 fresh salt and it will always be pulled and flushed

so I'm just wondering if is worth it with the proper maintanence

blue motors don't come cheap

thoughts ?

[yeller]

I ve maintained a lot of motors in the salt and I am able to flush very quickly so I'm debating wether it's worth it

my last big block boat that I only ran in the salt I would hang on davits and flush after every run and I was always fine

You answered your own question. Not worth it IMO.
I've been adapting an aftermarket closed cooling system to my new motor because the original motor had CC from the factory and I liked not having to winterized the block. That's the only reason I have it, but I now wish I hadn't started.

My previous boat didn't have CC and I boat 50/50 like you will be doing. As long as you flush right away there is absolutely no effects from the salt on the engine.
All the fears of salt corrosion is because of poorly maintained boats and boats that are moored in salt water. CC is really an unnecessary expense for anyone that flushes right away.

Save your $ for gas and beer.

[Ghost]

Respectfully, I have to disagree on this one. I think antifreeze is substantially better than even fresh water for corrosion prevention. Salt is, of course, horrible. Also, in my experience, closed-cooling engines usually run at better operating temps. You can't accidentally suck sand or other debris into the block. The easier winterization is a nice bonus.

I don't know, but suppose some some boats may get very little use, where religious flushers get away without closed cooling for years. But I'm betting if you use the boat a lot, far better to have it. I wouldn't be without it. It's really not very expensive for a half system. (Add Stainless Marine manifolds on the seawater side and it's a really solid, trouble-free setup for many years.)

FWIW

[yeller]

Now I have to respectfully disagree.
I had 18yrs of use on my last boat without CC and I truthfully have to say that you could not tell it was ever run in salt. Both the aluminum intake/exhaust and cast iron block were super clean.

It's all related to regular flushing. I don't like the extra real estate CC uses or its aesthetics. It makes it harder to work on the engine and has no real advantage for the regular flusher.

The only time I experienced corrosion from salt was when I stored my boat in the driveway of a waterfront property. Boat wasn't in the water but the salt in the air started to corrode the metal surprisingly quick if I didn't stay on top of it. Moving only a mile away from the water solved that issue.

[JParanee]

I apreciate all the info gentleman and I am an anal flusher

ive been doing a lot of research on the topic

question

on a motor like mine which is the best way to go .... Half system or whole ?

I do know from my experience growing up if you flush immediately after every salt water use you can get by for years ......but this motor has never been run in salt and I just hate the thought

[smokediver]

On a higher horsepower engine you might have to run a half system. It will cool the block and raw water will go through the manifolds and risers. Monitor makes a nice half system for around 1000 dollars. I installed one on mine and am very happy. George Carter may chime in. He has a lot of good info on the conversion. I ran mine in freshwater for several hours and then did the instal. I only used distilled water the first 5 or 6 times out , draining each time and refilling. I then used a non silica antifreeze at about 50/50. If the engine has been in salt water it is important to run distilled water and then the non silica antifreeze. It is less prone to turning into a gel if exposed to left over salt in the block.

[JParanee]

On a higher horsepower engine you might have to run a half system. It will cool the block and raw water will go through the manifolds and risers. Monitor makes a nice half system for around 1000 dollars. I installed one on mine and am very happy. George Carter may chime in. He has a lot of good info on the conversion. I ran mine in freshwater for several hours and then did the instal. I only used distilled water the first 5 or 6 times out , draining each time and refilling. I then used a non silica antifreeze at about 50/50. If the engine has been in salt water it is important to run distilled water and then the non silica antifreeze. It is less prone to turning into a gel if exposed to left over salt in the block.

Thanks Smoke

this engine has not been run in salt

I was on CP performances web site checking out units

i will ill check out monitor