Judging by the layout of the wires in your pic and where 1 is usually is on the dist it looks like you have the 1-5 firing order which means it is the 289/older 302 firing order
but that is not solid has the wires look to be pulled off
Judging by the layout of the wires in your pic and where 1 is usually is on the dist it looks like you have the 1-5 firing order which means it is the 289/older 302 firing order
but that is not solid has the wires look to be pulled off
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The firing order casted into the intake is the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 but cant that intake also be used on the 289 and 302?
The plug wires were cut or disconnected when I got it.
I am going to assume for now that it is a 351 and when I eventually remove it, I will be able to get a much better idea.
no the intake is different on the 351 cause the V is taller due to increased stroke so the top of the motor is wider.
The intake could be a newer 5.0 intake that has the newer firing order on it? that would fit on an older 302 wow that could be a PITA don't ask how I know that
sorry until you pull it and get the casting codes off the block you won't know what you have
my boat had a 1968 289 and it was replaced with a newer 1987 5.0 long block and all the tinware was taken off the older motor.
when you pull the motor and pull the starter you should be able to get a casting number
When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
When the waves are high and the light is dying,
well raise a glass and think of me...
When I'm home again,
boys, I'll be buying!
My Ride
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wait just remembered on a 302 or 289 the lower bolt for the t stat housing needs and open/box end wrench to get it off it hits the plate or water pump on the 351w the motor is taller and that bolt you can get a socket on
When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
When the waves are high and the light is dying,
well raise a glass and think of me...
When I'm home again,
boys, I'll be buying!
My Ride
Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes
Contact Us
www.lgdonziclassic.com
Gotcha.
Thanks Matt.
I'll keep trying
Appreciate it
OK, so here is what I found.
C90E - 6015 - B and then smaller 9A3
That is what it looks like to me.
You be the judge. And what do they mean?
Thank you
as I read it it is a 1969 289 block made on Jan 3 of 69 which means it most likely was a 302 in that time frame the 289 was phased out in favor of the 302 some parts still had 289 stamped on them
http://www.ebay.com/gds/Decode-your-...3222033/g.html
When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
When the waves are high and the light is dying,
well raise a glass and think of me...
When I'm home again,
boys, I'll be buying!
My Ride
Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes
Contact Us
www.lgdonziclassic.com
Thats a bummer right??
Should I look into dropping in that ready to go 351?
The HM exhaust should work with it right?
I guess I am more into going fast and reliability than originality. But now it also sounds as if that engine block isn't original anyhow.
Matt,
Thank you very much.
That link is awesome
Deciphering the code is very cool
ok so now we know the motor was a replacement this is really quite common many early donzi classics fitted with the eaton drive and 165 200 hp were repowered a few years down the road when the bigger power and stronger drive( the aq 200) were made available. my 67 16 was repowered in 69 BYy HM with a HM 351w and a 250 drive.
is there any evidence of glass work on the transom? the true eaton drive which was weak and did have instances of spinning off the boat had 3 bolts in a triangular pattern and a round cutout
what do the end of the risers look like do they turn down towards the bottom of the boat or do they go straight out towards the transom? that will be a factor for the 351
When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
When the waves are high and the light is dying,
well raise a glass and think of me...
When I'm home again,
boys, I'll be buying!
My Ride
Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes
Contact Us
www.lgdonziclassic.com
Yes it has been modified somewhat.
I can for sure see that the exhaust has been moved.20150320_161528_resized.jpg20150320_161501_resized.jpg
if this is a true 66 and a sharp keeled barrelback I would say there are two choices
drop in the 351w and keep the volvo and be happy with the boat as a low to mid 50s boat
or go the chevy merc route and be a 60 mph with stock power and 70 mph boat with good 383 power
When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
When the waves are high and the light is dying,
well raise a glass and think of me...
When I'm home again,
boys, I'll be buying!
My Ride
Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes
Contact Us
www.lgdonziclassic.com
At this point, I think I will swap out the engine. It is not original anyhow.
I, however, am not interested in breaking the bank to go 70 MPH.
I am up at high altitude, so I lose a bunch already. My buddy has a '77 with a fresh 350 rebuild with lots of upgrades and Volvo 270. He can't seem to break 52 MPH. All I want to do is beat him in a race and have some reliability. I don't need to go 70, but 60 would be cool.20150320_084038_resized.jpg
Have to wounder a bit as to what you have there a 302 possibly 289 with 351W heads. If the 302 / 289 with 351W heads would mean realy low compression without different pistons. Also which 351W heads Pn FOR THEM IN ON THE UNDER SIDE OF THE HEAD in the as cast area were the pushrods go through. Might be able to see them with a mirror. Myself would just pull the heads to see whats up.
Easiest way toi tell if its a 351 is to measure across the intake bolts from one head to the other.
iTS NOT ALL THAT EXPENSIVE TO HIT 300 hp WITH A 302. cOME TO THINK ABOUT IT i HAVE A COMPLETE 302 FI out of a OMC package
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Looks like the motor came out of a Fairlane. The only real factor in a 60Mph and a 70Mph engine is compression ratio and cylinder pressure. The advantage of a 383 over a 350 is torque from the longer the stroke and volume of atomization. As soon as you say altitude volume of atomization efficiency goes out the window. Building a engine that can perform well at altitude and resist detonation at sea level can be achieved easily. If you were building a high RPM engine, it doesn't cost any more if you make high or low compression. Obviously that is not your case you basically want to use what's available on hand. My opinion is, use the 351 and later mechanically aspirate it . This would allow you to put the engine in run the boat and upgrade it with the engine in. You also don't need to shell out all the money at once as the boat is running and you can save for the upgrade over a time. The other advantage of mechanical aspiration is you can adjust for low altitude on the trailer. Most would argue you'd need to build an engine to support it, but if you use it for supplemental volume atomization efficiency at altitude you shouldn't need to.
machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish
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