You could always use a 280T shield ...
You could always use a 280T shield ...
A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer
Thanks for the info, it is great to see people are keeping these drives functional ( I appreciate keeping the boats original!!!).
1) Does anyone have recent experience with matching a the existing '72 steering cowling with a new Teleflex system at the dash? I do not have the cash to go hydraulic...
2) How about getting behind the throttle and gear controls without splitting the deck? Any tricks would be appreciated. I am only removing the shift cable (need to add the shift interrupter) as the throttle will not change.
3) Ideas on running a counter rotating alpha or not? From my understanding it is only the lower unit which is counter.. I am left-hand steer.
Thanks!
I repaired the the shift cable on the X-18, it can be done without cutting a access hole. My biggest problem was with all the sharp pieces of fiber glass cutting into my arm while working with a mirror in reverse. Adding a shift interrupter could be something else. I took many pic's with my camera before starting, that really helped.
My X-18 had so much torque steer with the stock steering I felt it was unsafe. I watched for deals on ebay for Teleflex & Hynautic parts. I built the system for around $500.00, money well spent. And I too left some tools in there.
I can't help on your question about the helm conversion, but my guess is that you will probably have to get creative if you want to keep the old Teleflex bezel with a new steering system. In my opinion you would be better off with the counter rotating Alpha drive if you are definitely going with the Alpha since you are left hand drive. I will also agree with the others that you can get to the throttle/shifter parts after producing lots of frustration, blood and sweat. Many years ago I made the decision on my 1971 18' to cut an access hole and I never looked back.
1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma
Del Mar do you have information on the carpet that you used? I like how is goes up the sides under the dash.
Can anyone confirm that the Alpha Gen 2 lower is all that is counter rotating?
Also any suggestions on sticking with the serpentine driven raw water pump versus the one in the alpha lower unit? It seems like it would be a pain to split the case once a year but i am not sure the serp system will work with the alpha...
Thanks all!
If you go with a Volvo 290/SP-A transom you get trim and being that the transom is bigger you can raise the drive almost 3 " without any glass work. The original 270'leg will bolt right back on as well. I found a complete 4 cyl
SP-A for 500$. Sold off the lower and the bell housing for 200$ so I had a net of 300$ in everything needed to add trim and raise the drive.
Work has been crazy but I have been able to make some progress. Found out that the adapter bracket would have required me to cut halfway through the drain plug and the transom light... Bailed on that idea and found a glass guy who has a good reputation. I am still concerned the blue will be very hard to match!
With the 350 out of the boat I am took the time to clean up a bit of rust, removed the raw water pump, changed to alpha thermostat housing, and rebuilt the carb. Next is installing the electronic ignition after I can confirm the clearance in the boat will be the same.
Hopefully I will have pictures of the boat in a few weeks.
Also, I have discovered that the counter Alphas are junk, so I will be sticking with the regular rotation. From my understanding smaller diameter props help with reducing listing at speeds. Is this the case? I am starting prop research now. Factory 330 HP at the crank. Thinking Mirage Plus not sure if I can push a 23???
Motor before Tear Down.JPGBlock Painted.JPGGimble Almost Prepped.JPGMotor Reassembled.JPG
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)