Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 31 to 38 of 38

Thread: Need closed cooling system help

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    160*F is a good number for closed cooling. An over heat is when the gage needle runs away, up and over 200*F. If it runs from 160* to 190* your good. It will most likely run cooler at mid throttle than at idle, and spike from WOT to off plane slow downs .
    Joe, w/an electric pump, your scenario isn't true. The coolant flow rate is constant.
    The indicated temperature is a true indication of the engine temperature, unlike w/a mechanical pump.
    I'm still concerned it might be too small, but Glen won't know until he puts a load on it.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    Duh! I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner.
    Another temporary problem Glen may be having is not enough water available through the hose he's using.
    There's probably little he can do about it either.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    1,991
    Rep Power
    21
    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Joe, w/an electric pump, your scenario isn't true. The coolant flow rate is constant.
    The indicated temperature is a true indication of the engine temperature, unlike w/a mechanical pump.
    I'm still concerned it might be too small, but Glen won't know until he puts a load on it.
    I Don't buy that. The flow rate of the cold water flow will change. Won't it? In any case 160* is still a good number that is not hot in the least bit.
    Right on , we'll just have to see what happens under load
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...=2&theater

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,303
    Rep Power
    24
    Thanks for the feedback guys.

    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    160*F is a good number for closed cooling. An over heat is when the gage needle runs away, up and over 200*F. If it runs from 160* to 190* your good. It will most likely run cooler at mid throttle than at idle, and spike from WOT to off plane slow downs .
    I agree 160 is good.....but without a tstat, running at idle, with cold water pumping through the system, I believe 160 to be high. It shouldn't have gone over 120 in this situation.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Donnelly View Post
    Put a piece of duct tape or electrical tape on your polished headers
    Then take a reading shooting the tape..Ed
    Never thought about that. Thanks Ed.

    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    I'm still concerned it might be too small, but Glen won't know until he puts a load on it.
    I'll find out this afternoon. Putting it in the water today. George, I thought the size would be big enough. It's larger than the one on my HO and I had absolutely no issue with that setup, no matter how hard I ran the boat.

    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Duh! I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner.
    Another temporary problem Glen may be having is not enough water available through the hose he's using.
    There's probably little he can do about it either.
    I don't think this is the case. I had pretty good water pressure at the house and the hose is connected directly into the cooling system, so no water is lost due to using muffs.

    If it overheats this afternoon, I'll do a leak down test to check for blown head gasket or cracked head. If it passes that test, I'll order a bigger HE.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by yeller View Post
    I don't think this is the case. I had pretty good water pressure at the house and the hose is connected directly into the cooling system, so no water is lost due to using muffs.
    Sorry Glen, but this makes a huge difference. A typical 5/8" garden hose (and not to mention the 1/2" plumbing that supplies the hose bib) has trouble flowing 7-8 GPM. Your raw water pump is probably capable of 30-40 GPM.
    There's a deficit any way you look at it. I think generally you can't run more than about 2,000 RPM on a hose.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,303
    Rep Power
    24
    So I finally got around to pulling my H/E and sure enough...it's a single pass, which is probably why engine overheated.


    I found a used 5" x 27" 4-pass H/E at a killer price.
    HE.jpg

    A bit beat up and I'll have to totally redo my cooling system, but that's not my real concern. I'm concerned about the inlet/outlet size of the raw water side. The closed cooling side is good, but the raw water side is only 3/4" and 5/8".
    That's pretty small considering the rest of the system is 1.25".

    I've googled H/E pics but can't find a pic of this one, so I don't know what the application is. I know it's large enough to cool my motor, but would I get enough raw water flow with the tiny inlet/outlet?

    I got the unit cheap enough that I can easily sell it for more than I paid for...but I can also afford to spend a couple hundred on it if a rebuilder can solder on larger tubes.

    Any thoughts??
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,683
    Rep Power
    34
    Maybe.......
    Your engine inlet and outlet are 1-3/4" (or at least the circ pump inlet is 1-3/4") and 1-1/2". The raw water side needs to be 1-1/4" each. I hope you can get it modified. There should be good resources there in Vancouver.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    3,303
    Rep Power
    24
    Just talked to a local rad shop and they'll clean it, pressure test, and install 1.25" inlet/outlet for $200. Going to drop it off next week.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •