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Thread: Rotten transom 22 classic

  1. #16
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    Great pictures!

    Thanks for the pictures! A picture is worth a thousand words. I was thinking about doing this very same thing with 6x6s, looks like I'll save a few dollars going the 2x route for the deck lift.
    I got under the deck last night and noticed that the rub rail was bolted on with locknuts. I was also happy to see that the deck was all hand laid. I didn't see any chopper gun mess.
    I wonder if Donzi or baja or whoever they are now are making stronger stringers/transoms by building them the way we are re-building them...
    Either way, makes no difference to me, I practically stole my 22, knowing it would need work. After this winter I'm sure I'll never want to sell this boat!

  2. #17
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    Pulling the deck was a lot easier than I had thought it would be. You can easily have it off in a day.
    Jeff's setup looks great and a good way to go. I didn't have the garage to be able to use an overhead hoist, so I pulled and installed mine with an engine hoist.

    I put a 4x4 through the speaker holes to lift with the hoist.

    Lift1.JPG


    Lenny came up with the idea to support the deck with a couple of 2x6's. They were bolted to the deck using the lifting ring holes.

    Lift2.JPG


    Setup worked great and we were able to move the deck around while on the engine hoist. In this pic you can see bolt through the front lifting ring hole.

    Lift3.JPG

    I had lots of help removing the deck, but when I installed my new one, I was able to do it by myself using the same setup. I didn't have any holes in the deck to bolt the 2x6's to, so I ran straps over them from one side of the deck to the other.

    The hardest part of the deck removal/install was reinstalling the rub rail. Even though it had been on the deck for years, it didn't just simply screw back on. I had to put in some #12 screws at an angle, every couple feet to "stretch" the rub rail. (I removed the #12's after it was properly installed). The rub rail easily took me 8hrs to install.


    Here's a pic of my transom thickness to give you an idea of what the thickness might be of your fibreglass.
    Mine's an 04 and has about 3/8" on the exterior with about 1/4" on the interior. Mine is also foam cored instead of wood.
    Transom thickness.JPG
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  3. #18
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    So far

    So far, I have removed all but one piece of rubrail. I was wrong about an earlier post stating that the deck was bolted. Only the front rubrail was bolted, everything else was held on with screws. Funny how the deck was fastened before the gelcoat went on. Is that factory? Some of the countersunk screws were covered over by gel. Also found that there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to placement of the deck screws. Some are as close as two inches while others are as far apart as 22 inches! And I found a screw hole near the transom that had been countersunk and then abandoned and filled with caulk. While another deck screw was drilled through by a rail screw. I'll be sure to use tape and mark all my deck screws and rail screws so that doesn't happen again. And, just as previously stated by a few of you guys, so far... deck removal is a quicky.



    IMG_5647.JPGIMG_5648.JPGIMG_5649.JPGIMG_5650.JPGIMG_5652.JPG

  4. #19
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    Deck's ready to come off

    (can't figure out how to turn my pictures right side up)
    IMG_5654.JPG
    This 1990 22' has a cleat on the bow. Obviously not structural for lifting. There is no lifting eye, so maybe i'll remove the fuel cap to get a brace under this part of the deck to lift it off the hull.


    IMG_5653.JPGIMG_5660.JPG
    Can't figure out the point in this? My guess is it's where you'd bolt the eye through the deck?? doesn't look like it would hold much as you can see the voids around the outside where it was glassed to the hull.


    IMG_5655.JPGIMG_5656.JPG
    These two ^^ are upside down and can't figure out how to get them right side up... but i'd love to know what in the world the piece of pvc glassed onto the deck is for?? it's right between the cleat and the nav light. looks like it's even been worn as if they used it to suspend the deck upside down and work on it at the factory.


    IMG_5663.JPGIMG_5664.JPG
    Just another picture before and after of one of the gelled over deck screws. I found them all and once I get my lift rigged up, I will raise the deck off the hull and get busy cleaning! I'll be glad not to get back under the bow for a while...

  5. #20
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    Do yourself a favor and buy an Oscillating saw. Harbor Freight sells one for ~20$, of you can buy a Fein for 200$ Either way go buy one and get the offset cutting blades for it, it is the perfect tool to cut out the remaining wood in your transom, quiet, and pretty much dust free. I just used one to remove the transom from my 27' Magnum sedan.





    I cut my plywood like this, and filled the round hole with layers of Fiberglass mat:




    I used 2 layers of 3/4" Okoume, glassed together with CSM:




    I also mage clamps out of 2x6 and 2x4 lumber bolted through the transom cutouts for the drives as I didnt want ANY extra holes in the transom




  6. #21
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    Now that's legit ^^^

  7. #22
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    I used Corebond to bond the ply to the transom then covered the inside with 2 layers of 1708 and 2 layers of tabbing.



    I have to say Glassdave from OSO was instrumental in me doing this project, with out him I would still be lost.

    I also opted to beef up the stringers with a layer of 1/2" Okoume on each side of the originals (Mine were bone dry, so I only had to cut out the last 6" or so to fit the transom and scarf in replacements) and added diagonal 2" tall stringers of 3 pieces of 1/2" laminated together. creating a Chevron pattern to reinforce the bottom of the hull


  8. #23
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    I will second the purchase of a Fein oscillating saw... It is the PERFECT tool for glasswork and cutting out old junk.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/FEIN-Mult...rt-Q/202980163

  9. #24
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    Wink White flag

    I threw in the towel before I started. I'm far too busy to take on this project by myself, so it's in the shop. Going to have the engine and drive pulled and stringers, transom redone by a local professional. He's even going to gelcoat the bilge. Anyone ever done that? I can imagine it is going to look immaculate by the time he's done! And I'll get to use the boat this summer. (Something I'd have never been able to say, had I taken on this project myself)


    "Props" to all you guys who have done this work on your own boats!

  10. #25
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    Sprayed on gel is not shiny, also it's quite porous, and you may not be crazy
    about the results, especially in the bilge when it absorbs oil and other things.
    There're some other finishes you may like more that you can apply yourself, like
    Rustoleum 9100 System DTM Epoxy Mastic w/emersion activator.
    http://www.rustoleum.com/product-cat...m-epoxy-mastic
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  11. #26
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    To add to George's suggestions , when I finished off the bilge areas of mine I used the Interlux barrier coat system that I had already barrier coated the hull bottom with .

    http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/pr...ct-2000e.aspx#

    The grey finish looks identical to what Donzi used on the classics , is easy to apply by brush - one coat will do it . It's hard as nails and easy to clean plus you never have to worry about water sitting in the bilge for long periods of time.

    Just another idea , nothing more , or less
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

  12. #27
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    Glyptal is bulletproof and comes in gray. Oil and grease just wipe off..Ed

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