Some good news, I got it out!
I'll post some pics soon.
Some good news, I got it out!
I'll post some pics soon.
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
I did 2 things to break loose the bolt. I had previously tried to get a long flat blade screwdriver between the bolt and dust cover to increase the available space. Today I found a longer screwdriver, drove it in w/a small hammer and finally the dust cover bent a little.
The other thing I did concerned one of Ed's ideas (it could be what Chachi was referring to also) . I found an old rusty offset box end wrench and ground the outboard end until it was pretty thin. I was able to get it completely on the bolt head and it broke loose.
Of course it's still a slow process since I could only turn it 1/6th of a turn.
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
Bill, here's the starter I bought;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380464261079...84.m1497.l2649
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
When I disassembled the old 454, there was no shim, or shims, between the starter and block, so I reassembled it the same way w/the original (but rebuilt) starter.
Can anyone tell me a simple and quick and easy way to determine if shims are required?
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
GC, that's not a high torque mini starter you bought..
as far as clearance.. get a standard 2" paper clip and use one leg of it to measure the go/no go clearance in the teeth pocket when the starter is mounted, and the drive extended... in your case, that may prove impossible
Glad ya got it out !
Put a lil grease on the shaft of the new one also where the gear drive rides for saving problems down the rode on lay up.
Also Parnell and myself had similiar issues with fitment on our BBC's a few yrs back and i'll be damned if i can remember, but he might. It required a lil custom work on starter fitment.
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George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
Is this a high torque mini starter?
George Carter
Central Florida
gcarter763@aol.com
http://kineticocentralfl.com/
“If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities
yup, kinda........... but a true mini starter has a different nose
I bought the one from GM for the Critter over 10 years ago and it's still on there
Mr C, did you bench test the one your just removed. Just for chits and grins before you so you wont go through this hopefully again, with another unit?
image.jpg
I have used a Hi Torque Marine mini starter for years and it has worked flawlessly. Another major advantage of a mini starter is they are lighter than conventional starters and will be easier to hold in place and install.
Good luck with the installation, it will definitely test your patience.
Congrats George, and as Mike O suggested, bench test it first.
Ken
Great to hear you got it out.
Better hurry now as I will be there in 6 months for my ride. L.O.L. ..Ed
For starters, I use DB elec. Cheapest around.
http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-2855-57-liter.aspx
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