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Thread: Water Stains

  1. #1
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    Water Stains

    Hi guys,

    I know this doesn't have to do much with performance at all, but after winter storage I noticed my 1970 16' ski sporter has grey water stains on the hull. I was wondering what you guys would suggest in order to remove these stains? If there is a certain rubbing compound or hull cleaner? Any help would be great.

    Thanks a lot,

    William

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.Davis View Post
    Hi guys,

    I know this doesn't have to do much with performance at all, but after winter storage I noticed my 1970 16' ski sporter has grey water stains on the hull. I was wondering what you guys would suggest in order to remove these stains? If there is a certain rubbing compound or hull cleaner? Any help would be great.

    Thanks a lot,

    William
    On gel I've had good luck with FSR. It's an acid, so worth following the directions and making sure you get it all off with the rinse.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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    I recently helped a friend work on his 42' yacht and he wanted assistance with acid washing the hull . I've heard people do this before and always thought they were confusing an acid wash with what the boat really needed . A power compounding and buffing/wax.

    The finish was Awlgrip , about 15 years old and very slightly faded. It looked white to me .
    After the first wipe of diluted muriatic acid went on , boy was there a difference.
    The hull had actually taken on a brownish tinge that you couldn't distinguish until the acid wash hit it.
    Maybe this is another possibility that will work for you too .

    Of course , you know how careful you have to be with muriatic acid.
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

  4. #4
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    I have used this on water stains painted and gel
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  5. #5
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    Yep
    +1 on the Meguiar's.

    I've used FSR on badly yellowed gel and it works great. But it is oxalic acid (aka toilet bowl cleaner) and it will make the gel more porous over time. Rinse (flush?? ) thoroughly.

    We used a Mequiar's stainless polish on rust and water stains on the sailboat (which is Awl-Gripped) this spring and it worked great.

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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by mattyboy View Post
    I have used this on water stains painted and gel
    Thanks for the help everyone I'll try one of these out this weekend and let you know how it turns out.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgan's Cloud View Post
    I recently helped a friend work on his 42' yacht and he wanted assistance with acid washing the hull . I've heard people do this before and always thought they were confusing an acid wash with what the boat really needed . A power compounding and buffing/wax.

    The finish was Awlgrip , about 15 years old and very slightly faded. It looked white to me .
    After the first wipe of diluted muriatic acid went on , boy was there a difference.
    The hull had actually taken on a brownish tinge that you couldn't distinguish until the acid wash hit it.
    Maybe this is another possibility that will work for you too .

    Of course , you know how careful you have to be with muriatic acid.
    Do you know what mixture rate you used for the hull cleaning? I used to mix about 50% with water to clean stainless propellers and the mineral buildup on outdrives, but I now use Zap porcelin cleaner.

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

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    I used toilet bowl cleaner, wipe it on, let it set for a few minutes, and rinse it off.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conquistador_del_mar View Post
    Do you know what mixture rate you used for the hull cleaning? I used to mix about 50% with water to clean stainless propellers and the mineral buildup on outdrives, but I now use Zap porcelin cleaner.
    I think it was only about 25% , if that . Still horrible if it got on you, which of course it did , reaching up above your head.
    I've long used straight muriatic to remove the coral crust on props after scraping them . Nothing like it.
    Just because something's old doesn't mean you throw it away !

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    Quote Originally Posted by fegettes View Post
    I used toilet bowl cleaner, wipe it on, let it set for a few minutes, and rinse it off.
    The Zap I now use is probably about the same as CLR, Limeaway, or some of the other toilet bowl cleaners. I feel a little safer using them.

    Quote Originally Posted by Morgan's Cloud View Post
    I think it was only about 25% , if that . Still horrible if it got on you, which of course it did , reaching up above your head.
    I've long used straight muriatic to remove the coral crust on props after scraping them . Nothing like it.
    Yep, muriatic acid works fast and does a wonderful job. You know it is strong stuff when you open the gallon jug and see "smoke" coming out .

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

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    I've had stains from water running down the side of the boat, and leaving marks where it passed over metal pieces such as snaps. for these I was able to remove them with a simple cleaner wax or a polish. A real good finish and wax job will allow you to wipe them off with a mist and wipe or even water.

    If you've got yellow or brown stains on the bottom from dirty or stained lake water I've had the best results from acid whether it be made for a boat or your toilet bowl. Again the key is keeping it buffed and waxed and any staining you do get will be very slight and easy to manage.

  12. #12
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    My boat floats in an algae pond it gets pretty stained I tried the acid toilet bowl cleaner long story short it's a waste of time. Some one actually make a product specifically for cleaning hulls Wait for it Attwood

    Notice it is environmentally friendly . They say to dilute it , I use it straight. How good does it work you ask. I had a 5 year algae stain from the trailer bunks to the transom all the way down to the keel "I had to crawl under the trailer" any way in 15 minutes it was gone. I use it regularly when I take her to different lakes and rivers. The fact of the matter is for $10.00 at Walmart you can buy the product that was designed for cleaning hulls.
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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    My marina winterizes about 2000 boats per year. I am a charter captain for them on weekends and the detail department are close friends of mine. They have an incredible amount of knowledge of what works for them and gives the best results. For hulls, we use muratic acid. For my boats, I buy toilet bowl cleaner at the local Walmart for $1.62 a bottle. I spray my affected area on my hull with water including the trailer and concrete floor beneath, then I squirt the toilet bowl cleaner on a sponge and wipe the affected area. I use a green solvex nitrile glove and a respirator as it will burn your lungs breathing it. I leave it sit for a few minutes then rinse off with fresh water. I reapply if needed. Then I give it a good coat of wax. We have a lot of lime deposits here, so it works well for that as well. For my wood boats, I use white vinegar and spray it on the wood to take the water spots off. A lot of little tricks to keep em looknig nice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 72Hornet View Post
    My marina winterizes about 2000 boats per year. I am a charter captain for them on weekends and the detail department are close friends of mine. They have an incredible amount of knowledge of what works for them and gives the best results. For hulls, we use muratic acid. For my boats, I buy toilet bowl cleaner at the local Walmart for $1.62 a bottle. I spray my affected area on my hull with water including the trailer and concrete floor beneath, then I squirt the toilet bowl cleaner on a sponge and wipe the affected area. I use a green solvex nitrile glove and a respirator as it will burn your lungs breathing it. I leave it sit for a few minutes then rinse off with fresh water. I reapply if needed. Then I give it a good coat of wax. We have a lot of lime deposits here, so it works well for that as well. For my wood boats, I use white vinegar and spray it on the wood to take the water spots off. A lot of little tricks to keep em looknig nice!
    LMFAO ! Yes, the whole respiratory poisoning and burn your eyes out thing is exactly why I stopped using the toilet bowl cleaner .It also work like crap on the algae ,you had to keep applying it over and over scrub it and not get ant where close to what the Attwood does in one squirt. The toilet bowl cleaner also facilitates oxidation of the gel as was stated the gel becomes porous . I like to think my Donzi is not a toilet therefore I don't use toiletry products on it. Muratic acid is harsh stuff and requires a lot of care in it's use . Personally I'll stick with the Attwood hull cleaner as I've found it to work 100 times better and it is not caustic doesn't ruin your metal parts, the planet , and especially your health
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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