Windshield old style/ new style 22C

[Moody Blu']

I thought about vinyl wrapping it, the windshield is in pretty good shape mop stopped a lot of cracks, it has some signs of sun age but its still in decent shape.

[yeller]

The plexi in the factory stainless windshields was typically 3/16" think and not very strong on its own. The newer frameless windshields were 3/8" thick.

Rick, the newer ones are actually thicker than that. They are 1/2"

Mr.offshore: Not sure if you can make a deal, being in Sweden, but Inferno is looking for your style windshield. It could allow you the $$ towards the new style.
http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...yle-Windshield

[Mr.offshore]

I wish you well.
Here's a link to my own efforts at windshield building:

http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...eld&highlight=

your windshield looks really good! I like what you've done with it! I understand the problem with the access for the bolt-thru nuts, maybe u can use ordinary skrews and bond it with some extra sikaflex (glue) alongside the lower parts of the windshield direct to deck.


yours dashboard is the exact same version I would like my boat to have. did you buy it direct from donzidirect together with the livorsi gauges? are you running full hydraulic steering aswell?


Thanks for that information yeller, I will contact Inferno and maybe we can make a deal somehow!

[gcarter]

your windshield looks really good! I like what you've done with it! I understand the problem with the access for the bolt-thru nuts, maybe u can use ordinary screws and bond it with some extra sikaflex (glue) alongside the lower parts of the windshield direct to deck.


yours dashboard is the exact same version I would like my boat to have. did you buy it direct from donzidirect together with the livorsi gauges? are you running full hydraulic steering as well?

Thank you for your kind words. By the way, your English is very good.
I think some of the side screws would be accessible, especially the front two or three. Your boat has a "firewall" behind the seat in the engine compartment. A 4"-6" (100-150mm) hole could be sawed through the firewall in each upper corner. I think you'd find you could reach one or two of the rear screws through these holes. The large holes can be filled using some covers with removable "bungs", of the type that are common on boats.
My dash was a custom fabrication built to my sketches by the supplier for Donzidirect.
Josh was extremely helpful in getting the dash made and it wouldn't have been possible with out his help. The gauges were a collection of new and old that I bought over some time on the internet.
If you find you can't easily find a replacement windshield, I personally wouldn't hesitate to build my own. There's nothing magic about it. The hardest part is the front corner pieces. If you can find a good local fabricator that doesn't mind working with stainless, it's not too hard. The inner corner pieces could be used as is. The outer corner pieces would have to be "developed" due to the thicker windshield material. The front lower edge would be longer at the lower front edge in order to cover the gap of the lower edge of the 13mm plastic material. I'd also fabricate a stainless strip to cover the gap at the lower edge of the front section of windshield. I think that would be easier than trying to bevel the inner lower edge of the plastic to give a good finish.

[Mr.offshore]

Thanks, I'm working offshore on the norweigan oilrigs in the north sea. My crewmembers are from different parts of the world so english is usually the spoken language here. As i'm only 22 years old I'm very happy to get two weeks of free english lessions while offshore, followed by 4 weeks paid leave where I can go home and polish my boat all day long.

I used to work as a mechanic for a swedish boatbuilding factory: http://www.rupertmarine.com/sv/ruptech.asp where we made some kickass tenderboats, some of them with all the electronics and engine data were controlled on an ipad via maretron BUS WiFi systems. Pretty nice to sit in your sofa at home and switch your bilgepump on/off or check how much fuel is in your tank or batteries.

I get your idea with the drilled hole in the firewall. If you weld a 1.5m long pipe to a spanner you might get acces to all of them that way, using only a flashligt and alot of patience.

Do you have any idea of where I can find Livorsi at the best price? And also, i would like to get the same Pop-up "rope-holders" as you have. what are they called and where can you buy them?

cheers!

[gcarter]

The pop-up cleats are made by Accon Marine http://www.acconmarine.com/ .
You can buy direct, or shop on-line for better pricing. The cleats on my boat are 6" long.
As far as Livorsi products go, maybe someone can comment where to get the best current pricing.
Ebay.com is a good place to look for new/used pricing. I suppose sometimes it may be hard to get someone to commit to shipping out of the US.
We've had a number of members come to the US on vacation and buy a lot of supplies while here.

[yeller]

And also, i would like to get the same Pop-up "rope-holders" as you have. what are they called and where can you buy them?

cheers!

Have no idea what they cost, but these guys make the coolest looking cleats:

http://www.seasmart.it/en/catalogo/p...1/1/index.aspx

[Ghost]

I have 4 Attwood 6-inch pop up cleats, new in the box, but I imagine by the time you deal with the shipping it wouldn't make sense. (Even at $40 apiece, when they retail for $88.)

[Mr.offshore]

Have no idea what they cost, but these guys make the coolest looking cleats:

http://www.seasmart.it/en/catalogo/p...1/1/index.aspx

wow! I've sent them an message for pricing information, but I'm sure they wont be cheap


Ghost: Will you send me some pictures of the cleats to v_917@hotmail.com or a link where i can see them. it might be interesting! where are you located

I've got friends who visit the US every now and then!

cheers,

viktor

[Ghost]

http://www.gearup2go.com/default/nea...FUtk7Aodu3UAzQ


I'm in Maryland, near Washington DC in the USA.

Mike

[boatnut]

Nope, actually it was the standard mid '80's 22C windshield.

Hi Guys, as you know the first 22's did not have a windshield (I had one that I should have kept), Dick Clark ran Sierra Boat in Lake Tahoe, CA and was a Donzi dealer at the time -- he went back to the Chisolms who owned Donzi at the time and talked them into putting a windshield on so he could sell the boats on mile high Lake Tahoe --- this was the result, I saw the first one in Sierra's showroom. Personally I like the stainless frame on my '97 better than the other alternatives.

Ed

[joseph m. hahnl]

I say
brasco_forgetaboutit.gif

Drive the boat

[joseph m. hahnl]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and I'm from sweden so please be aware that my spelling is far from perfect

I just bought my first donzi, an -98 22 classic with the stainless windshield frame. Now I'm a big fan of the new style windshield without the frame and was wondering if they would pretty much look the same if I removed the top stainless frame from my old windshield, painted the frame black and mounted some new fresh acrylic windshields.Would this be possible?

This is how my Windshield looks: http://www.powerboatlistings.com/view/22274
this is the look that I'm after: http://www.donzimarine.com/Boats/Classic_22.html

Thanks guys!

just stumbled on to this, they make a few different years for the 22http://www.updplastics.com/donzi%20b...indshields.htm

[Mr.offshore]

thanks for all the answers!

here's what i came up with at last, after 6 months restoration:

[Carl C]

You got the full frame windshield! It looks great. Why are the exhaust tips so close together? What engine and drive do you have? I'd like to know more about the restoration.