Stainless gimbal ring

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I might have to replace the gimbal ring on my Warlock. Has anyone bought one of these and tried it or have an opinion on whether it is worth the extra money for strength and longevity? I need a really good one if I am going to change it. Bill

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercruiser-B...#ht_596wt_1170

[MOP]

There was some chatter on OSO awhile back, a nice piece swivel bling!!!

[gcarter]

Bill, what's worn out about it?

[Conquistador_del_mar]

There was some chatter on OSO awhile back, a nice piece swivel bling!!!

It sure seems like it would be a strong, corrosion resistant, and nice looking gimbal ring if someone needs to do a replacement.

Bill, what's worn out about it?

As it turned out this afternoon, my friend mechanic that I really trust determined that the play I am having is due to the pin/tiller arm connection point and it looks like the gimbal is fine. I will have to do the drill access thing on both side of the upper transom assembly and replace the pin, bushing, and tiller arm to take out the slack. At times the drive would shake fairly violently from side to side apparently due to the slack. The drive without the single external steering ram attached will move roughly 4" from side to side before engaging the tiller arm while you can see that the pin is moving with the gimble ring. Onwards.

[gcarter]

I hate it when that happens.
I also hate to see those plugs in the side of the gimbal.
Now, personally, I'd never do that.
I'd pull the engine and do it directly.
Every time.'
I also understand why folks drill the holes, but it's just not for me.

[Conquistador_del_mar]

I hate it when that happens.
I also hate to see those plugs in the side of the gimbal.
Now, personally, I'd never do that.
I'd pull the engine and do it directly.
Every time.'
I also understand why folks drill the holes, but it's just not for me.

George,
I agree about those ugly plastic plugs that I have seen before. In my case, there is quite a bit involved in the 548 engine installation with all the extra cooler lines, headers with cooler hoses, electrical connections, etc. I've done it twice now and have no inclination to do it again. My holes will be filled with 1 1/4" brass freeze plugs epoxied into the holes and touched up with black paint. Being under a swim platform, they will not be visable anyway. Hole sawing throught the 1" of aluminum is made a little easier with using Marvel Mystery oil which does not allow the aluminum to stick to the hole saw teeth (tip of the day). Onwards.

[gcarter]

Bill, that's clever using the freeze plugs.

[cgbird]

instead of the merc kit you could try this one. looks like a nice kit.
.http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Bill, that's clever using the freeze plugs.

My mechanic friend has been working on boats for 30 years and has tons of better ways of doing things than the conventional methods - this one was also his way after doing many of them.

instead of the merc kit you could try this one. looks like a nice kit.
.http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm

Thanks, I heard about that kit and the resulting plate. Didn't you find it strange that their pictures shows a drive with the side plugs already there?

[MOP]

Bill brass and aluminum do not like each other, even in fresh water if the surfaces are breached the electrolysis will eat the housing quicker than you can imagine. Aluminum or plastic plugs will not cause issues!

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Bill brass and aluminum do not like each other, even in fresh water if the surfaces are breached the electrolysis will eat the housing quicker than you can imagine. Aluminum or plastic plugs will not cause issues!

Thanks for the warning, but in my case I trailer the boat so it is not in the water very long. Also I will be covering the area with paint.
Here is the kit I bought for the parts that need to be replaced. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140583142566...ht_1422wt_1170

[Conquistador_del_mar]

As a follow up, I got the replacement parts and the template for where to drill the holes and a new Lenox 1 1/4" metal hole saw. In less than 30 minutes, I drilled the holes through the 1" of aluminum on each side. I will try to keep track of the time involved with this repair and report it in case anyone needs to do it. My mechanic friend will be helping me from this point on. Onwards.