Testarossa Caracked Block :(

[patricke]

What a way to ruin myFriday

I had my 18TR in the shop to get the motor balanced, cammed, intake, ignition/prop work done, as I had mentioned in past posts I was looking for a little more top end speed out of my 350.

My mechanic just notified me that I have a 5-6 inch crack in the front of my block from freezing. I have kept the boat in my heated garage in very mild CA weather since I bought it so it must have been there a while. I have noticed mysterious water in the bilge in the past and when I pulled it out to trailer to shop. ARGHHHHHHH

Anyway, I've got to move on in life and look at potential options now.

Options are:

-metal stitch for 8-900 bucks. (block aparently may have other hairlines they cant see now)?

-New block?

-Put in a fuel injected larger motor maybe 383 Mag?

(waiting on pricing from mechanic on last two options)


NOTES:
My carbed 350 mag got me to 58mph spinning 4800 RPM. I wanted more than that. The cost of the performance add ons were going to cost me $4,000. So Im going to be in it $5,000 if I go with the metal stitching of the block as it is and aparently I wouldve been able to achieve around 65 MPH with a new prop as well.

Also, I do not want to disrupt the beautiful lines of my TR so having to cut a hole for a hatch modification is not in the cards if I go with a new engine.

lastly, Im running an alpha1 outdrive.


Bretheren of the Donzi forum I ask you all for your help and opinions on what I should do here!!


thank you,

Patrick

[Ghost]

Sorry, that sucks. Sounds like a 383 might be the way to get where you want to be. (More than your drive is rated for, but only slightly, and you can mitigate that with how hard you stand on it out of the hole, I'd think.)

[duckhunter]

Sorry to hear about your block!

The only way I would do a metal stitch repair would be on a rare irreplaceable motor. The small block Chevy is the exact opposite of that. You can pick up a machined block from any number of places for less than the cost you quoted for the stitch job, and it wouldn't be a well-used marine block.

Personally, I would find a local machinist and come up with a recipe for a mild 383 since you're doing a complete build. Or find a 383 crate engine from a reputable manufacturer. Sticking with 350 cubes at this point would essentially be giving up free horsepower.

All can be done on a realistic budget from $5k to whatever you want to spend - the sky is the limit! I would do some searching here and other places to find some reliable small block recipes; there are a ton of them floating around.

[patricke]

Sorry, that sucks. Sounds like a 383 might be the way to get where you want to be. (More than your drive is rated for, but only slightly, and you can mitigate that with how hard you stand on it out of the hole, I'd think.)

Ghost, I can definately mitigate that as I dont like to nail her out of the hole as it is. Just something to crank me more when Im getting to WOT. Thanks.

[patricke]

Sorry to hear about your block!

The only way I would do a metal stitch repair would be on a rare irreplaceable motor. The small block Chevy is the exact opposite of that. You can pick up a machined block from any number of places for less than the cost you quoted for the stitch job, and it wouldn't be a well-used marine block.

Personally, I would find a local machinist and come up with a recipe for a mild 383 since you're doing a complete build. Or find a 383 crate engine from a reputable manufacturer. Sticking with 350 cubes at this point would essentially be giving up free horsepower.

All can be done on a realistic budget from $5k to whatever you want to spend - the sky is the limit! I would do some searching here and other places to find some reliable small block recipes; there are a ton of them floating around.

This is great information Duckhunter thank you. What do you think I could get out of a pretty stock 383 crate motor top end in my boat with the right prop? Should I go with a carbed or EFI variety? I imagine I could find one that can mount right in to where the 350 was but I dont know. Thoughts on this?

**BTW noticed you have a whaler. Grew up fishing on my Grandfathers 21' outrage center console. best boat ever. Came with twin Evinrude 85's which ended up being a horrible set up for fuel....then switched to a 150 Mercury which was plenty for that boat.

thanks again.

[BUIZILLA]

www.musclemarineinc.com

www.michiganmotorz.com

[patricke]

thanks 'Zilla

[VetteLT193]

If you want EFI and value I have heard that "Marine Power" is a good option. I haven't used them myself but the prices are right.

http://www.marinepowerusa.com/replacement_sportpac.php

[gcarter]

Michigan Motorz does a remarkable job

[duckhunter]

This is great information Duckhunter thank you. What do you think I could get out of a pretty stock 383 crate motor top end in my boat with the right prop? Should I go with a carbed or EFI variety? I imagine I could find one that can mount right in to where the 350 was but I dont know. Thoughts on this?

**BTW noticed you have a whaler. Grew up fishing on my Grandfathers 21' outrage center console. best boat ever. Came with twin Evinrude 85's which ended up being a horrible set up for fuel....then switched to a 150 Mercury which was plenty for that boat.

thanks again.

Patricke -

No idea on top end, but the extra torque and horsepower can't hurt. Someone more educated can take a SWAG. With the Alpha drive being your limiting factor you can't run a torque monster, but I would think that anything between 325-375hp could be reliable providing you don't beat on the boat from a dead stop or go wave jumping. The nice thing about the 383 is it is the exact same block you're running now with a little bit of machine work. Since you will be replacing everything internal to the motor there is no benefit to building another 350 - the costs are pretty much a wash. All of your accessories will bolt right up.

There are a lot of engine builders out there that will do what you're looking for, the harder part is finding one that will make reliable power for more than a season. Read some of the horror stories here and elsewhere while you're deciding on a budget. Often less initial cost leads to exponentially more heartache (and cost) down the road. That said, a 383 long block shouldn't break the bank, and you will be able to re-use all of your accessories if they are still good. Replacing marginal stuff (pumps, exhaust, etc) will happen so make sure you budget for that.

Good luck!

[Conquistador_del_mar]

Michigan Motorz does a remarkable job

+1 on Michigan Motorz. They even worked on the price with me recently when I pointed out another seller's ad on ebay. You can't beat their shipping costs either unless you consider that Jeg's was running a free shipping deal on their engines recently. Bill

[patricke]

Vette and George thanks for the recs, I will check them out. Michiganmotorz came up for me earlier when I searched, good to hear they are legit.

Duckhunter, You are right, Looks like if I go that route I am willing to plunk down the 9-10k for the 383 stroker with an iron-clad 3 year mercruiser warranty with their no questions-asked claim servicing from what I hear......

My guy is telling me:

9800 engine
4-500 misc
700 prop
1250 labor

Thoughts everyone?????

[patricke]

Another rec for michiganmotorz from Bill...thank you. checking with them right now.

thanks!

[Just Say N20]

Patricke,

I had a 400 built. All said and done there is right around $14,000 in the engine. It dyno'd at 430 hp @ 5,300, and 490 ft lbs @ 4,300 on 87 octane.

If you are judiscious with your throttle, the Alpha isn't necessarily an instant death issue. I know of a 22 running a 330 hp 454 thru an Alpha with 1.36:1 gears that has lasted for years. He did install a drive shower, which he believes helped a lot.

[olredalert]

----I have been one of the main "Michigan Motorz" slappys for quite awhile now. I will also give them a big, big thumbs up. Two years ago I bought a 350 standard long-block from them and had a big problem on start up that was our fault, NOT theirs. We yanked it out and took it back to M-M and they took pity on us and not only figured out what we did wrong, but fixed everything. The price should have been $1500 at least for the repair and they asked only for $1000. Im a customer for life and refer every boater I know to them.
----I seem to remember a great 383 package that they sell!!!.......Bill S