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Thread: HELP Replacing Throttle/Shifter In Donzi 18

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    Lightbulb HELP Replacing Throttle/Shifter In Donzi 18

    My Quicksilver single lever Throttle/Shifter is self-destructing! First had to super-glue plastic plate covering trim & trailer switches. Now the UP of the TRIM switch failed. Down Trim still works & I can trim up by using Trailer switch. Has anyone replaced the TRIM switch or do I need to replace whole Throttle/Shifter? Has anyone found a good reasonably priced replacement or must I do e-bay for original Quicksilver single lever? The experience on this site has been invaluable. Any solutions will be appreciated

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    Posted on d.org today by me. If you want to see the rest of it go there.

    Trim.... Lack of...
    OK,
    A while back my pump was replaced. On the trailer it cycles up and down (fully) with ease. Underway it won't budge. I mean NUTHIN'. Boat is absolutely glued to the water. What gives? Anyone else have this issue? I'm dropping a Livorsi throttle in to replace the stock plastic throttle I have. I was hoping it's in the throttle somehow. New pump needed as well?
    Thanx,
    SCOTT R.

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    Throttle

    I believe you can get single levers from about $250 to $500 (Livorsi) with trim.
    You can get a good replacement from Overtons as well. You will probably be getting rid of the trailer option. One switch will take it all up or all down. Good luck.

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    Uflex
    Charter Member - WAFNC, SBBR, KWOSG
    1955 Perfect Mate
    1986 Hornet III, 502-415 TRS

    www.donzi.org


  5. #5
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    +1 on the Uflex they make a very nice unit, we sell just about every make some come back Uflex never does!
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  6. #6
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    I have installed a Livorsi/Uflex single lever shifter in my 22.

    My only complaint is that there is no seperate button for trailer trim ala Mercury. The trim button on the shifter will bring the lower unit from negitive trim all the way to trailer.

    Now if some nice guy can tell me what wires to cut, splice so I can install a seperate trailer trim button, that would be great.

    Ken

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    e-bay special

    I bought an original mercruiser on e-bay. Looked good? Does anyone have experience replacing a throttle/shifter? Any clues of tricks?

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    Not sure what model you are talking about, but if it is the 3000, for example, you have to get to the mounting bolts underneath the faceplate. Remove them and slide the unit away from its mounting. On the back, disconnect the throttle and shift cables and then disconnect the wiring at the bullet connectors. Then reverse it to re-install.

    It is not very hard.

    Some photos of your shifter would help to narrow down the instructions as I am sure each shifter is slightly different.

    Bob
    Member - WAFNC
    1997 22 Classic (sold)
    1997 Formula 271 Fastech
    502 Mag MPI

  9. #9
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    For those of you that want a seperate trailer switch on your panel (or anywhere, for that matter), take a look at this scan of the trim schematic from an old manual I have. (I think everyone should have a manual for their drive trains).
    OK, on the left side of the page you can see the connectors and wiring that go through the limit switch in the gimbal assembly.
    Notice connector #15 has two blue-white wires coming from the "boat" side of the connector. If you trace backwards through the three pin connector (#13), it terminated at the "UP" solenoid. Also notice one of the two blue-white wires goes through the limit switch and becomes a purple-white wire that goes through the old Merc trim panel. In the modern world, the purple-white wire would be wired through the throttle mounted trim switch to the red-purple wire which will stop the trim action at the limit of the limit switch.
    The other blue-white wire would be wired through your new trailer switch and the other side of that circuit is wired back to the red-purple wire utilizing a 20 amp in-line fuse.
    Remember, the power for everything, including these switches comes from that 20 amp circuit breaker visible at the top central part of the schematic.
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    Thank you Mr.Carter.

    Ken

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    Replaced the trim switch and trailer switch only purchased on ebay, but still wouldn't trim up. Would trim down and only way to raise lower unit was still to use trailer switch for up. Well thanks to George Carters schematic could trace purple/wht wire to purple wire connection to the trim limit switch where the real culprit was = corroded connection. And 2 blue/wht to blue wire connection is there too. Thanks George! Everything works now and the ebay throttle/shifter parts work better too! Only thing was I could never locate the trim limit switch (on transom?) even though I tried to follow the blue wire and purple wire (mine are both black) and still couldn't find trim limit switch! Anyone know where the trim limit switch is??? Fixed but still curious, Bob

  12. #12
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    Trim limit switch is on the port side of the gimbal ring.
    I don't have mine hooked up at all. I know where my limit is!
    GeneD
    007
    Formerly of Melbourne, Florida
    Permanent Resident of St. Petersburg, Florida
    1966 Classic 18-2+3

  13. #13
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    SCOTT R.
    Sounds to me as if the high pressure side of pump has been reversed somehow.
    Were the trim hoses going to rams replaced as well as pump?
    If so, perhaps the hoses were installed in the wrong fittings?
    On the rams, the short hose on top of the forward part of the ram, goes to the forward fitting on the trim hose manifold. If it's not, like I did once, you wont' get high pressure to trim up.
    This sounds like a 2 fold problem.
    Tell us more!
    And hey...your mailbox is FULL!!!
    GeneD
    007
    Formerly of Melbourne, Florida
    Permanent Resident of St. Petersburg, Florida
    1966 Classic 18-2+3

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