Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 24

Thread: scotts donzi

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0

    scotts donzi

    looking for an owners manual for a 1988 25' ragazza, or info on somewhere i can download one. Thanks in advance...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Posts
    2,677
    Rep Power
    20
    Don't waste your time. There really weren't any manuals that were worth anything. The boat manuals were nothing like a car's manual. The ones they issued with boats had generic boat handling and safety information.

    Your best best would be to buy service manuals for the engine and drive that you have. They come from Merc or Clymers or others. They will give you information you can use.

    Bob
    Member - WAFNC
    1997 22 Classic (sold)
    1997 Formula 271 Fastech
    502 Mag MPI

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    4,202
    Rep Power
    16
    +1 on Tidbart's comment. I got my 28 brand new from the factory and the manual is worthless... it covers the entire ZR and ZX product lines as an all in one manual and it's thinner than a magazine. Some manufacturers to a better job than others. Donzi builds a great boat but have horrible documentation. Formula, Viking, and Ocean Yachts I can vouch for their excellent documentation so it does vary.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0
    Sure appreciate the heads up, I've used Chilton, etc. with automotive so I'm familiar with going that route... You both saved me some time. Thank You...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0

    Sbal

    Ok, next question, 3rd time out on my "new" old 1988 25' ragazza, I have some outdrive experiance, while throttling up I had the drive more or less slip out of gear, as I throttled back it caught and away I went, seems as long as I gently throttle up there is no problem, How hard is it to adjust the clutch? or is this the wrong forum.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,663
    Rep Power
    28
    The coupler is shot and needs replaced. The rubber doughnut inside the coupler has broken loose from the steel casing and is slipping.
    The engine and drive have to be removed. The coupler is bolted to the flywheel, and the input shaft is splined into the coupler.
    A suggestion......replace the Alpha coupler w/a Bravo coupler. They are completely interchangeable except for the older flywheel cover. After about '90 or so, all the flywheel covers are identical and include a larger hole in the rear surface to give clearance for the larger Bravo coupler.

    Good luck w/the new boat.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0

    Sbal

    If the coupler is shot wouldn't it slip all the time? Thats why i thought the clutch just might be slipping because of an adjustment, Or is it wishful thinking on my part....who wants to pull an engine....ever.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,663
    Rep Power
    28
    No, not necessarily. The rubber doughnut either shears through the rubber itself, or at the joint of the rubber and the steel housing. It may hold up to 2500 RPM or so, I've had that experience.

    Alphas use a dog cluth, which are ratcheting metal to metal devices. They don't slip in the sense you're speaking of.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Posts
    2,677
    Rep Power
    20
    Here is some reading for you.

    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...hlight=coupler

    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...hlight=coupler

    Not the same as your setup, but the same principles apply.

    Good luck. Bob
    Member - WAFNC
    1997 22 Classic (sold)
    1997 Formula 271 Fastech
    502 Mag MPI

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    Rep Power
    10

    Lightbulb What about a slipping Propeller rubber shaft hub ?

    George Carter is most likely correct about your engine/drive coupler slipping~~~
    This is the typical failure mode you described.

    Also if your propeller has a rubber splined shaft hub almost the very same thing can happen.
    I have seen dozens of rubber splined shaft hubs in propellers slip as the prop hub gets older or is over torqued..
    The rubber will have torn loose in the hub.
    Usually you will see a black stickey rubber substance oozing from behind the prop's mounting washer & lock nut.
    If your prop does have a rubber shaft hub I would first try pulling & replacing your prop with another known good spare.
    That would be the first easiest thing to try~~~
    If you still have the very same slipping problem it's sadly then time to pull the engine & outdrive and replace that worn-out engine/drive coupler as George Carter suggests.
    George sure knows his boats, drives, & engines !
    Last edited by silverghost; 06-20-2012 at 10:56 AM.
    "BENCHSEAT 18" ~~YellowJacket~~ project owner~
    1929 Chris~Craft 28' Tripple Cockpit Mahogany Speedboat / A-120-A 845 Cu.In. 375 H.P. Chris~Craft V-8 racing engine.
    24' American Skier
    Super Eagle 454 HO Skiboat
    1991 454 SS Chevy Super Sport Pick-up for towing my "Toys".

    There is no such thing as going too fast ~ ~~
    OR~ Being too old~ for a new "Toy"!

    Brad Hunter
    Huntingdon Valley Pa (Just outside Philly)~
    Ocean City NJ
    silverghost1926@msn.com
    215 947 4676 (PA Home)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0

    Sbal

    Well I can't thank you guys enough, I have a plan of attack now, I have spun 2 props in my time and this is now looking like the damn coupler.... Boat = B ring, O out A another T thousand...right....I get back out to the marina this thurs. I'll do a little testing and let you know what happens, thanks again, I think, hahahahaha
    Scott
    Oh, one more question, looks like the coupler is connected to the engine only, why do you have to pull the outdrive? I've never been in that far before... Thank you.
    Last edited by sbal; 06-20-2012 at 07:14 AM. Reason: one more question

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Posts
    2,677
    Rep Power
    20
    The drive shaft, which is attached to the outdrive, goes into the coupler, which is attached to the engine. So, you have to remove the drive in order to remove the engine.

    B
    Member - WAFNC
    1997 22 Classic (sold)
    1997 Formula 271 Fastech
    502 Mag MPI

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,553
    Rep Power
    10

    Any Burning Rubber Smell While Slipping ?

    As others have already mentioned~~~
    A failed & slipping outdrive coupler will usually smell like burning rubber in your engine comparment while it is actually slipping.

    A slipping rubber propeller hub will not produce any smell since it is running under water.

    Did you smell any burning rubber smell while the slipping was actually happening ?
    This would give you a good clue if it is in fact the drive coupler; or instead the prop hub that is actually slipping.
    "BENCHSEAT 18" ~~YellowJacket~~ project owner~
    1929 Chris~Craft 28' Tripple Cockpit Mahogany Speedboat / A-120-A 845 Cu.In. 375 H.P. Chris~Craft V-8 racing engine.
    24' American Skier
    Super Eagle 454 HO Skiboat
    1991 454 SS Chevy Super Sport Pick-up for towing my "Toys".

    There is no such thing as going too fast ~ ~~
    OR~ Being too old~ for a new "Toy"!

    Brad Hunter
    Huntingdon Valley Pa (Just outside Philly)~
    Ocean City NJ
    silverghost1926@msn.com
    215 947 4676 (PA Home)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    0

    Sbal

    silverghost, I did not smell any burning rubber, Do you agree GCARTER? Could it be good news???

    I went out to the boat Last Thursday, while in the work rack I put the drive in gear with the full forward motion on the Throttle/gearshifter... jumped down and tried to rotate the prop...I could not budge it.
    While turning the prop CCW I had the clicking sound which Gcarter was talking about with it being a "dog clutch" that was obiviously the the dog clicking on the gear teeth.

    The guy I bought it from gave me the original prop so I'm going to try that first, (it has a stainless steel on it now)

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    12,663
    Rep Power
    28
    When mine failed, there was no smell, but then I thought I knew what it was, so I didn't abuse it.
    Like I previously mentioned, it would drive up to a little over 2000 RPM before starting to slip and I was able to get home.
    If you find it is the coupler, I'd encourage you to replace it w/a Bravo coupler.
    You'll likely never replace it again.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •