496HO to 502

[gcarter]

Resin is formuated to cure in a mold w/o any air exposed to it.
When it is exposed to air, it doesn't cure properly. The wax added to the resin will surface after the resin's applied to seal the surface and exclude any air.
There're some here that can explain the chemistry that's involved, but I'm just a hobbyist.
I suspect what happened in your case is, the folks at Merton's asked you what you were doing, and when you told them repairs in your bilge, they added wax to your order.
It WON'T cure w/o it.

[VetteLT193]

[ QUOTE=buizilla]outside in the parking lot.. or that's a damm cold dyno room.. how can the tq curve be that flat, when the hp curve gains over 100hp... no can do [/QUOTE]

I agree on the temp, it's cold, but certainly possible up north.

as for the TQ / HP... it makes perfect sense to me. Check out dynos on 1996 Corvette LT4 engines. Same thing happens there. HP is just a calculation based on TQ. HP = TQ * RPM / 5252 . I spot checked the numbers and they look fine.

I can't find my old dyno sheet but here is another example. This is the epitome of a great engine that has a huge area under the curve.

http://www.grandsportregistry.com/dy...liday_dyno.jpg

[BUIZILLA]

Bob... an LT4 small block is not a supercharged BIG block...

[blackhawk]

how can the tq curve be that flat, when the hp curve gains over 100hp... no can do

Hah? Why can't you have a flat tq curve with hp rising 100+ hp in 1000 rpm?

[BUIZILLA]

have fun with it.......

[gcarter]

I know, I know!
Because
T = 5252 x HP
rpm

And if the HP goes up significantly in a narrow rpm range, the torque has to go up also.


The formla won't align properly, sorry.

[blackhawk]

I know, I know!Because
T = 5252 x HP
rpm

And if the HP goes up significantly in a narrow rpm range, the torque has to go up also.


The formla won't align properly, sorry.


Exactly, and the numbers do align properly on that sheet. HP = T x rpm/5252. 5252 is constant and rpm is variable. This is WHY torque can stay flat and hp will increase.

An engine making 600 lbs of tq at 4000 rpm has to make 457hp at 4000 rpm. If it also makes 600 lbs of torque at 5000 rpm then it has to make 571 hp at 5000 rpm. This goes for big block, small block, supercharged, NA, etc.

[gcarter]

Or;
500 HP@ 4000 RPM = 656#' T
600 HP@ 4500 RPM = 700#' T
700 HP@ 5000 RPM = 735#' T

That's an increase in the T curve.

[blackhawk]

Or;
500 HP@ 4000 RPM = 656#' T
600 HP@ 4500 RPM = 700#' T
700 HP@ 5000 RPM = 735#' T

That's an increase in the T curve.

Exactly! In this case the hp increased 200 vs 79 for the tq.

Now can someone answer why the the "reply with quote" doesn't work properly?

[yeller]

Thanks George. Appreciate the explanations.

As far as the dyno sheet goes.......I honestly don't care whether it's accurate or not. I never really paid much attention to it. I only posted it because it was sent to me. The seller of the motor got it from the the original owner of the motor. I'm getting the motor dyno'd before it ships. That's the dyno sheet I'll be looking at.

...and Blackhawk, the "reply with quote" doesn't work for me either...

[yeller]

Well two months later and not a whole lot has happened. Boat is still motorless. Glass work isn't finished. Motor still hasn't shipped yet. I've been crazy busy with virtually no extra time so work on the boat has been very, very, slow. Our summer has been horrible so far, so at least I don't feel like I'm missing out on boating.

There were a lot of delays with the 502 and I went back and forth on whether I was putting the 496 back in or not. I had finally decided to start putting the 496 back together and then the 502 deal completed. So I do have a motor coming. 650hp @ 5200, 750tq @ 3700. Money was sent and it will ship next week. BTW: Motor was dyno'd at Crockett's. I called Brian, but he doesn't tune the Mefi

[yeller]

Although I still have lots of work to go, I was able to get a bit of work done.
I repaired the stinger where it was notched for the procharger (on the 496).

[gcarter]

Congratulations Glen.

[yeller]

Thanks George. I haven't seen any updates on the TR lately. I'm hoping it's because you are too busy with the business. $$$$


I've never liked how the pad for the bilge pump blocked the lowest spot in the bilge and prevented all the water from draining out, so I notched it in the center then glassed it.

[yeller]

During the grinding, there was several spots where there was voids under the final layer of glass. I ground these out and filled the voids and any 'low' spots with polyester filler.

I also filled most of the transom holes (from the old tabs and steering rams). As suggested by GCarter, I tapered and filled them from the inside to reduce the amount of repair work necessary on the outside. I still need to give them a skim coat of filler before I can re-gel.

After the holes were filled I glassed in two layers of 1708 Knytex