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  1. #16
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    Hope everyone had a great Easter!

    I spent most of the day hunched over in the bilge of my boat with a grinder. The worst is now over! Got the grinding done, so next step will be the glass work.

    I attached my shop vac to a box hoping to catch most of the dust. Well...it did work, but as you can see by my coveralls it didn't get it all. I'm glad the grinding is over. I hate that crap. I've got a pretty busy few weeks ahead of me so I probably won't get any further until May.
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    Why is faster never fast enough.

  2. #17
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    Looks good. The glass work can go pretty fast. Merton's is a good source to make sure you get fresh resin, etc. You will need the little roller tool too, and lots of disposable plastic gloves. You have to work in a controlled heat range. Get it done man! http://www.mertons.com/
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  3. #18
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    Brian can tune a MEFI on a 502.

  4. #19
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    The dyno sheet looks to have outside air temp... was this dynoed in a cold area? And the psi / hg looks to be normal pressure so it was taken someplace just above sea level.

    Not all that bad. Corrected number will help because like Buiz says... no one runs in 39 degree weather.

  5. #20
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    "Corrected number will help because like Buiz says... no one runs in 39 degree weather."

    Well, Glen does live up there in Maple Leaf Land with Fogducker and the boys...he might run in 39 degree weather!
    Don
    '01 22 Classic, 502/B1
    And a bunch of other stuff

    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti

  6. #21
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    So I have a glass question.

    I wasn't sure what type of resin to use, but in another thread Fixx suggested vinylester, so that's what I'll get. Anyone disagree?

    Also as suggested, I planned on using a waxed resin on the last coat....but then I started thinking. Do I really want a waxed resin if I'm painting it afterwards? (bilgecoat or similiar). Wouldn't I have to sand the wax off to paint?


    And Zelatore: I know Fogducker has boated in 39deg weather, but I need it a bit warmer than that! Now it it was 40......
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  7. #22
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    The dyno sheet looks to have outside air temp... was this dynoed in a cold area?
    outside in the parking lot.. or that's a damm cold dyno room.. how can the tq curve be that flat, when the hp curve gains over 100hp... no can do
    Charter Member - WAFNC, SBBR, KWOSG
    1955 Perfect Mate
    1986 Hornet III, 502-415 TRS

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  8. #23
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    Yes, Vinylestrer resin.
    Buy a pint of wax and add as necessary.
    I'd add it to every course just to be sure. Ya never know when ya might have to stop for some reason.
    W/o wax, it'll NEVER cure.............................ya add the wax.
    And speaking of warmer weather, the resin will be a lot happier @ 70*.
    Ya don't sand the wax off, take it off w/acetone.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  9. #24
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    Thanks George. I was hoping you'd respond.

    I don't fully understand why I would put the wax in from the start. I do understand that if I stop, the resin will fully cure, tack free, but then I'd have to remove the wax to add another layer of glass...wouldn't I?
    Without the wax, the resin will cure, but will be tacky, right? Is there anything wrong with that?
    Before I paint, I will then need to remove the wax? If I wipe a waxed resin with acetone, will it be obvious to me that the wax has been fully removed? My only real concern about having to remove the wax is if I miss a spot and I don't get good adhesion in that area.

    Lots of questions.......I just want to make sure I get it right. I'd prefer to skip the wax altogther unless I absolutely have to use it. One less step to worry about.

    Too avoid answering all the above questions and to simplify the matter....can I do my repairs in the following manner:
    2~3 (or however many) layers of glass with unwaxed resin and then Bilgecoat (or similar) on top? Or do I need to wax the final layer of resin?
    Why is faster never fast enough.

  10. #25
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    Glen, to assume incompletely cured resin is a good surface to add an additional course of glass would be incorrect. Once certain components are cured it's done and the inhibited surface will not bond to an additional course, just the opposite. You'll simply have a horrible mess.
    When you're mixing the ratios, you simply add a few CC's of wax, mix and use. The wax is very inexpensive.
    You may or may not need to remove the wax after curing, but if it's been an appreciable period of time, you'll need to sand the surface before adding any more glass.
    Do it right, do it once!
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  11. #26
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    What is all this talk about wax? When I did my reinforcement project I used vinylester resin with hardener and 4 layers of stitchmat. I kept the temperature at 75* and monitored that with a thermometer in the engine room. I never used "wax" and no one said anything about adding "wax"? I was able to lay all of the glass in one day. You have to do it all within a certain timeframe or else wait for each course to fully cure. I just reread my thread from when I did mine. Glen, you might want to look at this thread. There was a lot of good input from Mr X & Dwight & George & BigGriz & everyone else. http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?57025-Air-22-Dwight-Can-U-Help-Me-W-525-Install
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  12. #27
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    Carl, you may have used a resin product w/wax already added, unknown to you.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  13. #28
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    This is what I used:
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  14. #29
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    Same resin I used, but I either had them add wax (which they will do) or I added wax myself.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  15. #30
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    What does the wax do? Mine cured fine without it.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

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