transducer placement on35 zf

[hard labor]

Im wanting to get thru hull transducer in my year 2000 35zf. Ive heard it has to be in front of steps does anybody have any experience with installion and how it reads at cruising speeds. Had one quote of $2800.00 just labor to install it. Seems abit high to me thanks in advance

[zelatore]

$2800 for just labor is VERY high. I'd be asking for a break-out of how they came to that number, or just plain walking away!

I don't know that particular boat, but in general yes you would need the 'ducer to run in clean water with no air, so in front of the step makes sense. You'd still want it as far back as possible to make sure it stays in the water with bow-rise upon accel/cruise.

I'll assume the boat has to be hauled out; that it's either not on a trailer or the trailer is in the way of accessing the 'ducer location. In my area (NorCal) that runs about $10/ft. So that's $350

Let's say the guy doing the instal isn't the yard, so he needs to pay them a lay-day for the boat to sit (it will need to be out over night to let everything cure before lauch) so maybe an extra $35...that brings us to $385. Let's round that up and call it $400

He'll have to cut your fairing block to match the deadrise of the hull (assuming you're using a bigger/hi-po 'ducer that has a fairing block and not some simple little thing) so that will be an hour labor. Call it $100 for a total of $500

Cut a hole in the boat....give him an hour- $100; bringing us to $600

The wire pull for the cable on that boat can't be difficult - it's a small center console for gawd's sake! It's not like he's got to snake the cables to the flybridge on a 60 footer or anything. Let's say it takes him 2-3 hours tops. Call that another $300 for a total of $900

Throw in $50 for materials (3M5200 for mounting the 'ducer/fairing block, some s/s hardware, a few zip ties, etc) and I'm still well under $1000

What did I miss?

Seriously, I'd love to see a break-down of how they arrived at that number. Either I'm waaaay off on what it takes to put a 'ducer in a 35 ZF, or this guy is smoking some good stuff.

BTW, I'm assuming you're using a large thru-hull transducer like the Airmar B744V or similar. If you're using a smaller 'ducer that sits flush with the hull the installation is even simpler. And if you're using an shoot-through style, it's MUCH simpler since you don't have the haul/lay-day/hole in the boat/etc. But being a fish boat, I'm guessing you'd want something a little better than the average in-hull 'ducer.

[hard labor]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

Thanks for imput on crazy labor costs. My boat is on trailor so that saves some of the costs, Im putting 1k watt airmar 260 tilted element thru hull ducer. They told me that they had to create a pocket for it in inside of hull for it to fit then reinforce it and glass it in dont much about it but going to get another estimate for sure

[silverghost]

The price does seem insanely high.

However is this just for the yard's labor ?

OR Transducer, fairing block & Labor ?

A bronze thru-hull mounted multi finction, depth, speed, temp. & dual frequency sounder transducer element ,with a custom fairing block is pretty pricy just for the transducer itself. $500-$800 just for the transducer before labor.

A shoot- though the hull angled epoxy glued-inside "Puck" style transducer installation is quite cheap however.
This style transducer is the cheapest around.
typically $100-$200 for the transducer.

I'm not sure of your hull's construction ; nor IF your hull bottom has any internal core.
BUT~~~
If actually shooting through the hull an inside hull mounting spot must be found, or created where there is no foam, balsa, or composite hull bottom core.
A transducer cannot shoot sound through a cored hull bottom without removing part of that hull core in the transducer's selected mounting spot..
Most newer boats have such a pre-selected transducer inside hull mounting spot already pre-molded into the hull at the factory/boatbuilder where there s clean water contact with NO hull core..
Check for this factory spot on your hull~~~

Glued-in angled"Puck" style transducer installation is very easy in most cases and should be done for a very cheap labor cost.

[zelatore]

If they are creating a pocket in the hull, I'm going to assume your ZF has a cored hull? If so, then that would indeed ad to the.complexity of the install. The price still sounds high, but not as bad as I had first thought.

[MOP]

According to the manufacturers site you do not need fairing or a pocket, Have them look at the link below. In the right pane they say 16 to 24 degree, that has you covered.

http://www.airmartechnology.com/uplo...res/ss264n.pdf

[Pismo]

So ridiculous. I did mine myself in about 1 hour, including everything, mounting the transducer, dash work, wiring. $2800 an hour salary..nice...Such BS. Find another marina.

[zelatore]

I've only done the tilted element 'ducers once or twice, but they are nice pieces. A better choice for a fast boat than a traditional fairing block style unit like the old 744 and easier to install. Are you going with the 264 pair MOP linked to? If so, there's some extra time for installing the two ducers, but that's offset by not having to deal with the fairing block installation.

I won't go so far as to say you can do it in an hour like Pismo suggested, but I'd be closer to that than I would your original quote.

The key question is if you have a cored hull. If so, then there is some rational for building a pocket. I will guess what they mean by that (and again, this only applies for a cored hull) is they will cut the 'ducer hole, then reef out the coring about 4" back leaving a 'pocket' between the inner and outer laminates that they will then fill with epoxy. This would be the technically correct way to install any thru-hull fitting on a cored hull since it provides additional strength and protection from potential core saturation in the event of water penetration. But few yards actually do that - most simply cut a hole, paint the core with some wicking epoxy for protection/strength, then stick in the 'ducer. And honestly, that works 90% of the time and involves considerably less work/cost.

So, first question: cored or not cored hull?

Regardless of the answer, I still say they are way off base. So much, that I think they must simply have made some sort of mistake. Are you sure that's just labor? They didn't accidentally include parts as well? If so, that would put their quote a little closer to reality as that's around a grand's worth of transducer there.

Get the quote in writing and post the details - I'm sure we'd all love to see how they arrived at that number. Maybe it's an honest mistake. Or maybe they think you ride on turnip trucks.

[ROADTOYS]

I just had one installed in my ZX28, 1 hour labor at $110.00 Naples Boat Mart

[Pismo]

"I just had one installed in my ZX28, 1 hour labor at $110.00 Naples Boat Mart "

Much more like it. My depth kit cost $60.

[zelatore]

Pismo, although I agree that the original number quoted was extremely off-base, it's pretty much apples and oranges with what you're running. If you're 'depth kit' cost $60, I'm guessing it's the most basic thing available. Likely a simple in-the-hull puck. Even those typically run over $100 these days and they are the cheapest thing you can buy.

This is a much higher end transducer; look it up or look at the link MOP posted. You're looking at more like $800-$1000 for just the 'ducer itself depending on exact model.

Frankly, I wouldn't trust a yard that quoted me a 1-hour installation of a thru-hull transducer, including pulling the cables, much more than I would trust the guys who made the original quote. One clearly doesn't know what it takes to do the job right and is underbidding (what corners are they cutting? will they jack up the price when they get into the job?) while the other is massively over-bidding (how do they justify this price?)

In my original post I'm trying to go for a worst-case situation to see if I can come up with how on earth the yard got to $2800. Even then, I can't get anywhere near that number. Realistically, I'd expect a few hundred bucks to be in the ballpark but acknowledge there could be some things I don't know that complicate the installation (like a cored hull).

[Pismo]

"Pismo, although I agree that the original number quoted was extremely off-base, it's pretty much apples and oranges with what you're running. If you're 'depth kit' cost $60, I'm guessing it's the most basic thing available. Likely a simple in-the-hull puck. Even those typically run over $100 these days and they are the cheapest thing you can buy.

This is a much higher end transducer; look it up or look at the link MOP posted. You're looking at more like $800-$1000 for just the 'ducer itself depending on exact model.

Frankly, I wouldn't trust a yard that quoted me a 1-hour installation of a thru-hull transducer, including pulling the cables, much more than I would trust the guys who made the original quote. One clearly doesn't know what it takes to do the job right and is underbidding (what corners are they cutting? will they jack up the price when they get into the job?) while the other is massively over-bidding (how do they justify this price?)

In my original post I'm trying to go for a worst-case situation to see if I can come up with how on earth the yard got to $2800. Even then, I can't get anywhere near that number. Realistically, I'd expect a few hundred bucks to be in the ballpark but acknowledge there could be some things I don't know that complicate the installation (like a cored hull)."




$2800 (just for labor don't forget) is ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS no matter how you try to justify it.

Take off a zero and it might be worth it...Any more and you are wasting your money.

[zelatore]

$2800 (just for labor don't forget) is ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS no matter how you try to justify it.


I agree 100%

[joseph m. hahnl]

It must be one of those cloking transducers that makes your boat invisable to the fishes eyes. Those are really expensive to install as the technology used is from Klingon or Romulas. Your boat will need to be teleported through a stargate to even get there. Your in Luck though there's a Star Trek convention at the end of the week.
I'm sure if you buy a Romulan some Ale he would help you out with it


on a personal note my $100 shoot through works at full board 60mph. I'm not sure how that Dilithium Crystal Chamber Transducer is going to work but for $2800 plus $800 to $1000 for a Transducer. It had better make the fish jump in the boat .

This guy has one, it works amazingly good

[RickyR]

[ QUOTE=$originalposter]{$pagetext}[/QUOTE]

I did mine myself on my ZFC. It was tight, but very do-able. No coring in the hull, so drill the hole and mount the sender.
I drilled my hole from the inside down first using a 3/8 bit then drilled back from the bottom.
The place you want to mount this is in the center console bilge area.
Take the rear piece of starboard out (inside the center console), then there is a small bilge area that the sump for the shower is sitting. Across from that pump on the stbd side, drill your hole. That area is in front of the steps and works well up to about 50 mph. There is an arrow for the clocking of the transducer, and make sure you get the correct degree one and mount in the correct direction. Some say a backing plate made of treated/painted is needed, so do what makes you happy.
I have access to getting the wrench that tightens the nut.

If you aren't nimble or are fat , let someone else do it...

Ricky