Agreed, It does a great job and the price is right!
Jeff
Agreed, It does a great job and the price is right!
Jeff
" Just piercing the surface"
Buddy of mine just did his Fountain with Rustoleum and Enamel Hardener and it came out great. Set up nice and hard too.
Wandering through Home Depot a few weeks back I got to talking with the paint guy, After mulling a couple of paints. I told him of my complaints with the Bilge Coat I used, one of which is it is very slippery to the point of everything ends up slipping/sliding down toward the middle me included. He brought up a fairly hard rubber coating with a small stipple that adheres extremely also gives good footing, I need to go back and check it out a bit may be of interest to a few.
Phil
No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"
Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.
I would hate to have to clean a rubber coating.
A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
1972 John Allmand - Nova19 (#2)
1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer
Went into the Tractor supply co. store and picked up a few cans of Valspa enamel hardener. While there picked up the paint as well, it's an oil base enamel (tractor & implement) paint..........would this be the same as rustoleum?
1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
1976 Magnum 27' Sport
1986 Donzi 18' Classic
NEVER FORGET 9/11
f_inscreenname: "I would hate to have to clean a rubber coating".
+1 on that. Rubber is also heavy and retains heat.
Sean Conroy,
1964 Formula Jr. (hull #2) project
1972 Greavette Sunflash III
1981 Kavalk Mistral project
"A man can accomplish anything... as long as he doesn't care who gets the credit."
[ Went into the Tractor supply co. store and picked up a few cans of Valspa enamel hardener. While there picked up the paint as well, it's an oil base enamel (tractor & implement) paint..........would this be the same as rustoleum? ]
Scippy,, I would think Vaspar would be just as good, but I found the Rustoleum to be around 4 bucks less per gallon at Lowes. I'm using the Rustoleum with hardner in my Magnums bilge..
I did the bilgekote in my baja and it was OK. Don't really care for gray and am glad my Donzi's is white.
Nick
1994 22' Classic-454 B1 Red & white
1981 13' Whaler sport(original owner)
South Tampa Bay, FL "May I mamoo dogface to the banana patch?"
[ QUOTE=$woobsr]{$Okay, so just to get it straight the options are...
Interlux Bilgekote
Sherwin Williams Hi-Solids Polyurethane / S-W hardener
Rustoleum Professional
Rustoleum w/Valspar enamel hardener
Rustoleum 9100 system
Imeron 555 / activator
PPG
Not bad after 14 posts....}[/QUOTE]
YOU FORGOT KRYLON!
Sincerely,
Broque
1971 H/M 18' classic
351w/Volvo 250
MTI TA trailer thanks to Dr Dan!
Yes, I have a lanyard
N/E donzi club member
My Space
OK well I can speak as someone who has not only had his 2 boat motors out at least 6 times in the last 3 years... the Donzi only once....
I usually every Spring or Winter layup .. re-touch up my bilges...when the Motors are out, I get in there and Sand and make a laundry list of what ridiculous thing I could possibly add to my boat or Engine Bay and make it just a little less typical... all of the Bling and Billet aside.
I agree on the Bilge Kote... it does not seem to be quite as durable...I have only used the INTERLUX so I have nothing to compare it to... I like the sound of the Hardner idea...
Fact is if you actually use your boat, run it in real world applications... regardless of whats in there, every now and then you will end up wanting to keep it clean, painted and shiney. The engine heat, fuel and oil spills and just the rough and tumble environment of the bilge is gonna get beat up.... it just does. The fumes and ambient air - will tend to yellow a white over time...
When I pulled the Pantera's 540 the first time... in 2010 (approximately a year after I bought it 169 hours ) and the Callies Crank decided to become a Movie Star, and self destruct while I was in public I took the opportunity to completely re-paint and sand the entire Bilge and Transom and Bulkhead.
Pantera had been a tad less than detailed on their Resin applications and the Transom looked like someone had spilled Log Cabin Syrup in there... I couldnt stand it... it was like wearing wet underwear and dry pants, it just didnt feel quite right. So when the 540 became a 572 - I reblended a perfect match to the Grey Bilge Paint that was in there...I was able to do my own little blend to a perfect match...and it looks great now.
The Donzi finally got its new "Bull Hamsta" special edition motor back in and I used the White INTERLUX, I regulary wash out that engine bay with Simple Green and Dish Soap and a soft Blue Bristle Brush...that I use only for my Engine Bilges... they look Factory Clean all the time...
Nothing impresses people more than to see a clean bilge under the Motor, the motor can be all blinged out and if there is oil and nasty shizzle floating around down there or smudges... well it really detracts from the Bling.
So take pride in whatever you do, enjoy the time you have on and off the water...and just stay on top of it... regularly and its no big deal.
Doc of Careless and Meaningless Bantor
Because Life Is Better When You're Wet!!!
"Yes...I see you Tennis Champion?" .... You think you own me? Oh that's right... you do own me!"
Motor is out and I want to recoat the bilge on my 2001 18C and keep it original as possible. I am leaning towards white gel coat but I am not sure it will be compatible with the inside of the gunnels or inside the transom. The bilge between the stringers is obviously gel coat but the gunnels and transom may not be. Looks and feels chaulky like primer. I know it has never been recoated since new.
Does anyone know what product Donzi coated the inside of the gunnels and transom in the engine compartment in a 2001 18C? Paint/primer maybe?
Here is an example of what will happen if you use Interlux Bilgekote. Pictures 1 and 2 show what the bilge looked like when I pulled the motor after about 10 years of use. I decided to go with the Bilgecoat white and picture 3 shows it was a very bright white when applied. After 2 seasons I pulled the motor and following some clean-up with soap and water picture 4 shows that the white turned yellow. I currently have 5 seasons and 135 hours of running time and picture 5 looks about the same.
Thanks Bobby D. I own another boat which I used IL Bilgecoat and had the same experience with slight yellowing. The other boat is a shamrock which mostly sees saltwater. Since posting the question about coatings, I decided to use white gelcoat on my classic 18 after a bunch of reasearch. I am very happy with the results but we will have to see how it holds up in the years to come. Thanks again for the photos.
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