18' classic deck off, note worthy tips?

[Moody Blu']

Hi all , I have a list of thigns I plan on doing to Moody Blu' soon.

As I said in Gcarters thread, my friend just moved into a house where the previous owner had a race car and had a separate warehouse style garage which is perect to lift my deck off and he lives 20 minutes away. Ill be doing the following, change my tank, swap my oil pan, paint the bilge, rewire, new drive with tilt and trim YAY, Paint the engine block, engine mount, etc....

I have all the major parts for this job already. So I'm just waiting on my friend to get the ok to do this and it will start.

I plan on doing a dual battery setup but im not sure if I should have them on each corner of the port and starboard side or in the centerline somewhere, but the question is where on the center line? the rear seat comp can only fit one battery... so where??? this is the only issue I'm wondering about as far as placement, everything else I have figured out as far as location of oil filters, gas water separator, trim and tilt reservoir and motor.

I plan on swapping out the cam as well as springs for now and adding rollers a little later on with a better ratio.

So I figured I would post this up and if there are any areas I need to look out for certain issues im all ears... I saw all the repairs g carter did... I think I will be taking off the bottom paint and getting it all smooth since I now have a bunk trailer lol. and it iwll be much easier to do the hull if i flip it over and get all that paint off.

I'm excited because I just recently cleaned and organized my entire garage and its insane all the new parts I have sitting around for Moody, just waiting to bring her back to life!

I plan on doing a circuit breaker type waterproof switch for all circuits on the boat.

so far i have this.
nav lights
headlights- yes im putting lights in the front!
Gauge lights
Blower
Stereo
trim and tilt On/off for power
Ignition system power(sub cut off for ignition key and lanyard kill)
engine compartment lights!
interior color wheel lights
vhf radio
bilgepump(on only-automatic always) NO OFF except for batter switch
acc1
acc2
cig lighter

I plan on putting this on the driver side(LEFT) foot well wall


I have to mention im pretty pissed off that built rite used crap staples for my $2K interior and now all the staples are rusted and have deteriorated. WTF??

[gcarter]

#1: Get a set of dollies for the hull!!!!!!!

#2: Make sure you get a set of dollies.

#3: Rig some way to hang some come-alongs from the ceiling.

#4: Have fun!

[Moody Blu']

how much were they and where do u get em

[gcarter]

Here ya go:

http://www.williamsengineering.net/7m.html

They stopped offering them for while, but it looks like they may be available again as they've raised the price a little bit.
These suckers are really worth the investment.

[Moody Blu']

ouch! 500 for both. hmm, we'll see! thanks for the link, i saved it!

[maddad]

Broque, I'm real glad to see you posting about getting your boat back in shape instead of trying to sell it. Having a dolly under the boat makes it real easy to move about in the garage. I think I've got 50 or 60 bucks invested in the one I made. Good luck getting it in the garage ASAP.

[Moody Blu']

Thanks! We shall see if I get them! I'm more focused on getting her bullet proof and I only neeeed to rewire change the oil pan and tank for that... everything else is for fun.

[Just Say N20]

I like your idea for the switch location.

[Moody Blu']

thanks for the pic! thats exactly where I want it! I am just wondering if I am being too detailed to have a switch with a breaker for every piece of electronics possibly even the starter too? I'm at 14 switches without a starter/breaker that would make it 15 switches. I think I would need a high amp breaker for a starter though and could cause more problems then anything.not sure though

nav lights
headlights- yes im putting lights in the front!
Gauge lights
Blower
Stereo
trim and tilt On/off for power
Ignition system power(sub cut off for ignition key and lanyard kill)
engine compartment lights!
interior color wheel lights
vhf radio
bilgepump(on only-automatic always) NO OFF except for batter switch
acc1
acc2
cig lighter


I just pulle dout my kevko race 12 quart oilpan and there were all sorts of goodies in the box, NEW era correct donzi decalsforthe sideof theboat, new oilpan gaskets, intake gaskets etc.... also a 1989 donzi catalog hehe

[Moody Blu']

heres my oil pan, I got the optional windage tray for it as well model f202 I had it painted with a marine zinc primer and then sprayed it with blue. I specifically asked him to send it with no paint on it so I can get it as corrosion resistant as possible.

I plan on hooking up an oil lline and pump to the drain plug to recirculate the oil for cold starts as well as a no mess way to change the oil.

http://www.kevkoracing.com/ford.htm

[silverghost]

Adding Fuses & Brakers to a boat's electrical system is always a great idea.
I cannot believe that my 1972 Donzi project was originally built without a single fuse or breaker in sight on the entire boat..
What were they thnking at Donzi Marine ?
One has to wonder how many Donzi fires , or Donzi boats themselves burned down to the waterline because the boat had no fuses , nor breakers when originally built?

A starter motor breaker might be a good idea . But you would need a monster size breaker to handle the starter's cold cranking amps at 12 + volt DC.
You may however be able to put a large fuseable link in the main starter's positive battery cable line however?
This would be much simpler to do.

I would just add a breaker or fuse from your starter key switch to the starter solonoid's feed wire.

Has anyone here ever seen, or used, a breaker on the starter's large gauge battery cable ?.
I have never seen one used in this heavy DC current application.

[mattyboy]

there are two types of circuits in your boat

switched and unswitched

each circuit should have breaker/fuses and wire which are correctly rated for the circuit

the main breaker should be at the battery or near as possible.


the base merc harness has 10awg for the main 12 volt bus. I used that for my switched circuit with a 30 amp main breaker at the battery. the switched circuit are for things that only work when the key is on gauges,trim tabs,in some cases old volvo with just tilt and such. so that feed has a breaker and is then wired into a fuse panel for each circuit


i then ran an 8awg wire connected directly to the battery for the unswitched power things like nav lights dock light trim pump bilge pump and the like again with it's own breaker at the battery and a separate fuse panel for the switches and circuits.


heavy draw items like the trim pump have their own 4-6 awg harness with inline fuses connected directly to the battery so i only have to fuse the control side of that circuit which i think was 5 amp.

[Moody Blu']

are there certain parts I should ground and others I shouldnt?

I was thinking about running 2-4 awg wire from the battery to the breaker/switch panel. the only thing that would need that much power is the stereo amp im putting in, subwoofer and all. but i figured that isnt a bad idea. especially if i use the wire for a jump start terminal area as well as charging circuit. if the batteries are all sealed in the engine compartment.

[mattyboy]

not sure what you mean by ground some parts and not others. in a 12 volt system not much happens without a ground.


running heavy wires up to a breaker/fuse panel is not really a good idea. that is alot of hot wire that is not protected from overload. a main breaker back at or near the battery is better then run it to a breaker /fuse panel. in your scenario what stops a problem before the breaker panel?

[gcarter]

Yep, what Matty said.
#4 wire would make a pretty good welder.