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Thread: The dirty "R" word

  1. #1
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    The dirty "R" word

    I have always had water in the bilge with this boat. I would trace it down fix it and then start over because I would find some more. I have always had "ROTTEN" something in the back of my mind due to the constant water intrusion.

    Now that everything is out I have been all over the transom and engine area. I had my glass guy and mechanic do the same. As far as we can SEE or HEAR the area seem solid and sound.


    I'm repainting and re-gel these areas and am a little paranoid ill be missing something that I should take care of while I have the chance.


    So I have a two part question.

    • What methods other than visual and audio detection are there to look for ROT?

    • Should I just chill out and listen to these two guys and stop trying to make the wife trip out when I tell her I’m going to spend more money? The Mech and Glass guy's know their stuff
    I dropped a couple of pics if that helps Attachment 69863
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Thanx,
    SCOTT R.

  2. #2
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    Did you give it the slow and methodical mallet test for sound? Also run a moisture meter all over it and see what readings you might get. Just my .02 I'm sure there will be several comments.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  3. #3
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    Just put the dang thing back together and run it, for Pete's sake!! Spring is almost here!

    If you start sinking we'll come get your wife...
    1970 18 2+3 Hull #18-355 H/M 351W Volvo 250
    07 Cayman IT IS BACK! - '13 Abarth Cabrio

    PRESERVE, DON'T RESTORE

  4. #4
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    Scott, just an idea.....
    Wash all the holes that are going through the wood w/acetone, maybe more than once.
    It'll remove any grease and tend to reduce any moisture.
    Coat the edges of the wood w/System Three Clear Coat penetrating epoxy. It's very thin and will immediately soak into, and seal the wood. Those spots will never again absorb any water.
    Good peace of mind stuff.
    Scott, after the Clear Coat hardens, it penetrates so well, it will look just like bare wood that hadn't been treated.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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    Would it also make any sense to bag the area with duct tape and run a dehumidifier in there for several days to draw out any moisture? It's open so would be easy to set up.
    1972 16 OB - C16B-63 - "Surface Tension" Resto Project
    1974 16 OB - DMR16106017-B - "The Mule"

  6. #6
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    If you start sinking we'll come get your wife...

    I happen to have a Very succesful Bikini Rescue Boat. I have rescued many, many, Bikini Clad Donzi Girls from All manner of classics that tend to not be "Bikini Friendly" in various ways... So, don't worry SRay...I got you (well JRay) Covered.
    Capt. D.J. "Jefe" Reid -- RIP Big Grizz..and MOM
    '98 30ZF - Jefe's Revenge, '07 250 E-Tecs
    Founder/Co-Captain (South Region) - Donzi RED Bikini Crew
    "Revenge is a Dish Best Served...Wet"
    www.facebook.com/Team.Jefe

  7. #7
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    With friends like this....

    Who needs enemies?

    We thumped it like a melon all over, prior glass / bilge coat guy did crappy job so lots of cracks and flaking in bilge. All of which make me think twice. No real issues according to them. Thanks for all the tips. Will keep moving.
    Thanx,
    SCOTT R.

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    Most all transom rot starts down by the drain plug, you should poke a pick in the wood to see if any is starting. When my glass guy did my transom over he cut the bottom of the plywood straight, he did not put any wood down by the drain. He built that area to about 1/2" thick that eliminates the issue, the rot starts there then migrates into the ends of the stringers. Very few including Donzi does not isolate the stringers from the transom wood.
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  9. #9
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    I agree with George about the system 3 epoxy to seal any exposed wood.

    I also agree with MOP about using a pick to check the condition of any wood. But I think I'd consider going further. Maybe a few 1/4" exploratory holes drilled around the drain plug area or the stringer to transom joint. If you're already doing glass work in the bilge it'll cost nothing to repair those little holes, and it'll give you some peace of mind to see dry shavings come off the drill bit.
    Don
    '01 22 Classic, 502/B1
    And a bunch of other stuff

    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti

  10. #10
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    Great input.

    I agree 100% on George's idea.

    Already have picked away and so far so good.

    Fixx,
    Allow me to repeat this to you to see if I understand this correctly. Grind the entire inside of the transom and glass in extra support due to the thinness of the transom in that area? Honestly the tabs have been on there since there was a monster blown BBC in there. I didn't put them on so I have no idea about that area.

    BINGO on the rear rub rail. We noticed that last week. There has to be a 1/4 inch or better gap!!!! Does any one else have that issue? What gives???


    The forklift comment ought to be in your tag line!!

    Nice to get more input other than THOSE wanting to shanghai Jray. Jray is my wife Jeannette and sray is me Scott. Guess I should have splained that back in 2004. Confuses everyone.
    Thanx,
    SCOTT R.

  11. #11
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    Shanghai? I'm hurt sir!!!

    I was simply offering assistance with a situation that would allow you to focus on getting your boat fixed properly. I'm not a glass guy, a stringer expert or know everything about transom moisture......I was offering to Serve this Community in the best way I know how...... and for that I am accused of High-handed behavior....

    Shanghai?????? Really ??????

    That's what I get for being a NICE GUY
    Capt. D.J. "Jefe" Reid -- RIP Big Grizz..and MOM
    '98 30ZF - Jefe's Revenge, '07 250 E-Tecs
    Founder/Co-Captain (South Region) - Donzi RED Bikini Crew
    "Revenge is a Dish Best Served...Wet"
    www.facebook.com/Team.Jefe

  12. #12
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    Scott,

    I agree with Fixx on the rubrail issue. I was surprised how much water can seep through the crack between deck and hull. In fact immediately after running or while on the water you can take a flashlight and stick your head under the engine cover, look up the sidewalls of your hull and see if any traces of water are dripping in.....you may be surprised at what you find.

    I have also noticed that at times, I can get a good amount of water through the vents on the deck. this is magnified when performing hook turns....especially in choppier water. My rear vent can actually make contact with the water at times when performing a slower speed turn. I have noticed a good amount of water entering this way.

    What I do NOT like, however, is that depending on how your classic sits (mine is an 18) water can actually collect towards the bow of the boat it appears. this being said, I make sure and crank the front of my trailer nice and high after a run to get all the water towards the transom.

  13. #13
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    Very interesting points about how water gets in.

    FWIW, I find even as little as 90 seconds at the ramp with the plug out is easier than jacking up the front of the parked trailer. As long as there's no wait Or a good hill or two on the drive home.
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

  14. #14
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    Mike - Please refrain from getting back to the topic.....we are just fine with this thread being hijacked...excused me, Shanghaied into taking about bikini clad Donzi Girls.

    Thanks Amigo!!
    Capt. D.J. "Jefe" Reid -- RIP Big Grizz..and MOM
    '98 30ZF - Jefe's Revenge, '07 250 E-Tecs
    Founder/Co-Captain (South Region) - Donzi RED Bikini Crew
    "Revenge is a Dish Best Served...Wet"
    www.facebook.com/Team.Jefe

  15. #15
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    What's wrong Jeff?
    Have you run out of pictures?
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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