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Thread: points conversion and coil specs

  1. #1
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    points conversion and coil specs

    ....So a lot of of time was spent this summer trying to and having fun on the water. One issue I was having after motor warmed up some (twenty minutes or so of hard running) was the motor would cut out, just go dead. After it cooled down ( about ten minutes or so), it would start up and go.
    Mine is a 1966 champion boat with a fresh ford 351 Windsor, Eldebrock manifold, Holley 750 and new Mallory points distributor.
    One of first changes was to switch out the points with electronic conversion kit from sierra. This made a significant difference in performance, but the cutting out led me to change out the coil this past weekend. Instead of using a flame thrower which is recommended, I am using a blaster high vibration (msd) epoxy filled coil. The cost was only $54 from Pep Boys. The Blaster has .07 resistance and the Flamethrower has .06 . Close enough I guess.
    Here is the million dollar question. Mallory, Pertronics, Sierra, and MSD all say if your original equipment uses a ballast resistor, to keep using it. None of my equipment is original, so where do I go to find out? Will a points conversion kit accept 12 volts straight or should it have any resistance by using a ballast to keep from burning something up?
    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
    Champ

  2. #2
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    Lightbulb

    Just a few days ago we got a bulletin from Mallory telling us to inform customers not to use the resistor with their high perf coil, being an old boat mech it does not make sense usually the coli gets real hot. What you could try is run it without, if the coil does not get hot to the touch it should be alright. You will know in about 10-15 minutes if gets to hot.

    Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Semi retired marine tech over 50 years in the biz.

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    Coil Got Hot

    That makes sense as trying to get it fired up after replacing the coil (MSD), I wired it hot thinking to by pass the ballast, because it still would not start (that issue was water in the gas). When leaning over, I burned my self on coil. Switched it back to the ballast, ran o.k., got water out of gas, but battery died.
    Other than that, it was a good day on the water.
    Thanks for the info.
    Last edited by champ; 10-10-2011 at 03:36 PM. Reason: added text

  4. #4
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    The bulletin may make issues for some, I told my boss I doubted it would work on all apps. Get er charges up and running!

    Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Semi retired marine tech over 50 years in the biz.

  5. #5
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    Ballast wiring

    ....so after switching back wire to using the ballast resistor to the distributor to keep the coil from getting hot, I had one wire left over. It went to the fuel pump.
    To let you know the hot wire comes from the oil pressure safety switch directly to the ballast. It then goes to the fuel pump and was originally connected to the resistor side of the ballast. Would this be normal to do? Or, does a electric fuel pump need a full 12 volts.

  6. #6
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    So did the resistor wire solve the original problem?
    Cheers,
    Pismo
    1996 22 Classic
    Red with Stainless Windshield
    Stock Gen VI 502 Magnum MPI-415hp
    Stock Bravo I
    25" Mirage Plus
    74.5mph best @ 5050rpm GPS (Speedo said 80)
    27" Labbed Mirage Plus
    75.5mph best @ 4800rpm GPS (Speedo said 82)

  7. #7
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    The pump should have a full 12 volts!
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Semi retired marine tech over 50 years in the biz.

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    I believe the coil was the culprit and the ballast did the job intended. To keep the coil from overheating.

  9. #9
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    I am sure you are right MOP about 12v to fuel pressure. When leaving it hooked directly to 12v, my throttle response improved greatly. Still getting a popping noise at high rpm's over 5000. Any suggestions or start a new thread?

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