Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: hydraulic lines???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34

    hydraulic lines???

    I now have 3 hydraulic systems that will have air in them from being dismantled. The volvo drive trim , benett trim tabs and volvo power steering power steering.

    any tips on firing up these systems?

    Thanx
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    3,291
    Rep Power
    23
    I just went through almost the same thing.

    The Bennett system is self-bleeding. I simply ran the tabs up/down a few times and all was good.

    I have a Volvo AQ290 w/trim, and I did the same thing; ran the drive up/down a few times, added some AFT to the reservoir to keep the level correct, and it has worked fine since then. I didn't have to bleed anything manually.

    I can not speak to the steering system.
    “Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer

    Bill
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    1985 Donzi Criterion SS
    1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
    38' Carver Aft Cabin
    1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
    10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    1,545
    Rep Power
    23
    It's the same process for the steering, keep turning the wheel slowly from left to right back and forth until you no longer hear and feel any steering growl noise, just keep eye on the fluid level in the pump reservoir.
    Think Fast, Live Long!
    Humor Helps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    3,851
    Rep Power
    20
    I think you would be smart to tie off the outdrive to the lifting eyes when you first fire the engine in case the steering wants to go to one side. After it stabilizes, you should be able to work out the air in the system like the other systems mentioned. I mention this because a friend of mine broke the steering yoke on his Bravo when it first fired and abbruptly ran to one side - costly oversight! Bill

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Conquistador_del_mar View Post
    I think you would be smart to tie off the outdrive to the lifting eyes when you first fire the engine in case the steering wants to go to one side. After it stabilizes, you should be able to work out the air in the system like the other systems mentioned. I mention this because a friend of mine broke the steering yoke on his Bravo when it first fired and abbruptly ran to one side - costly oversight! Bill

    I was actually going to run it without the drive on. just a shakedown run to check for leaks and stuff . then when all is good hang the drive and water test.

    thanks for the info guys
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    905
    Rep Power
    18
    Steering, if you have a 90* drill take belt off PS pump and turn pump with drill and add fluid as needed, I primed my entire hyd steering system this way without even firing the engine, it a slower process but you can start and stop a drill and add fluid easier than firing the engine, much more control IMO.
    Steve
    2006 CLASSIC 18 WHIPPLED MX 6.2, BRAVO 1, STAINLESS MARINE EXHAUST, LATHAM STEERING, IMCO 2" SHORTY, LABBED MIRAGE PLUS

    TALK IS CHEAP, I'M FROM THE "SHOW ME STATE" SHOW ME

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    9,571
    Rep Power
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by osur866 View Post
    Steering, if you have a 90* drill take belt off PS pump and turn pump with drill and add fluid as needed, I primed my entire hyd steering system this way without even firing the engine, it a slower process but you can start and stop a drill and add fluid easier than firing the engine, much more control IMO. Steve
    this is a GREAT idea
    Charter Member - WAFNC, SBBR, KWOSG
    1955 Perfect Mate
    1986 Hornet III, 502-415 TRS

    www.donzi.org


  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34
    Steve , Jim,

    yes that is a great idea for a newer classic.

    but It's not a merc or a chevy.


    to get the power steering pump belt off the crank driven water pump and bracket needs to come off , that also means the alt. needs to come off.
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    1,545
    Rep Power
    23
    Matty,

    You could just crank the engine over with the positive wire disconnected from the + side of your ign coil to prime your p/s pump w/o starting it, and you'll be priming the engine with oil at the same time.
    Think Fast, Live Long!
    Humor Helps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34
    Walt,

    I have a drill driven oil pump primer I have to run to get the oil thru the motor. then i'll drop in the distr. I don't want to turn the motor alot with out water don't want to fry the impellor in the crank driven HM pump, and don't want to force water thru the motor with out it running.
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    1,545
    Rep Power
    23
    Yeah' I guess it's better not to, and to be on the safe side but I was figuring 40 seconds of cranking time split between 10 to 20 second burst wouldn't be harmful since the waterpump wouldn't be spinning fast.
    Maybe just wet the impeller down with a dribble of wetness and squrt some dishwashing detergent into it?
    Think Fast, Live Long!
    Humor Helps.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Posts
    10,510
    Rep Power
    34
    I still have the fuel system to prime as well it's bone dry . I figured I have 3 schools of thought after I fill the tank and fuel seperator and pull the line off the carb and dumped into a container.

    1. pull the starter wire off the solenoid and crank the key til fuel is dumped into the container.

    2. with the key "on" run the oil pump primer this way I can check the oil pressure gauge and oil safety switch and pre lube the motor while I prime the fuel system.

    3. grip it and rip it hook everything up and crank away


    I am leaning towards number 2
    When the sky is grey,look out to sea.
    When the waves are high and the light is dying,
    well raise a glass and think of me...
    When I'm home again,
    boys, I'll be buying!

    My Ride

    Come Join Us on The Queen Of American Lakes



    Contact Us

    www.lgdonziclassic.com

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •