496HO engine rebuild.

[yeller]

The rebuild started this weekend. Took my boat to Jeremy's Sunday morning to pull the motor. Damn, there is a lot of junk on these things. The hoses, harness, coolers, accessories filled the back of my truck when we stripped it down.

Shut it down about 3pm and spent the next 8 or so hours drinking large amounts of alcohol. Jeremy cooked up a great dinner of fresh salmon and vegetables straight from his garden. Then in the morning, Jackie made a great breakfast of fresh farm eggs and homemade sausage. I highly recommend this bed-and-breakfast.

Monday morning we ripped apart the engine and Jeremy is going to haul it to the machine shop for me today. (Couldn't do it yesterday. Monday was a holiday here).

Here's some pics of the start.

[yeller]

And here's what we found.

[Carl C]

Wow. The main bearing is GONE! Good thing you didn't run it more. Go with a crank that has only been cut .010. I've seen problems with cranks that required a heavier cut due to the case hardening on the journal being gone. I'm assuming you will upgrade the pistons now. Try Summitt in Ohio for parts and good luck with the rebuild. I'd go with the cometic head gaskets. Mr. Fixxy probably has some good tips too.

PS, yes, the 496 is one fugly cluttered up package!

[RickSE]

Good luck with the rebuild Glen. Man, your boat has certainly been through a lot.

[mrfixxall]

And here's what we found.

from the looks of that thrust bearing the block is probably going to be junk!

[yeller]

That's a rod bearing. The mains were good. #5 and #6 rods took the beating.

Jeremy took the motor to the machine shop today. Quality builder that has been around for a while. He will be spec'ing everything, but based on his visual, he thinks the crank will be ok and the bores will only need a hone. (Yes I am going with forged pistons and upgrading the rods).

[Carl C]

I thought that was the thrust bearing too. It's a mushroomed rod bearing. Did you run it more until it started knocking?

[hot shot]

I would call ray from raylar... I went with his 106 kit.. nice rods and pistons just 10 over enough to clean the bores up and he has a cam that flat ass works dyno numbers on a dts not a super flow were 582 hp 597 torque at 5300 rpm. my boat is running 80 82 with that mc leod interior that weighs at lease 400 lbs and no shortie you could expect upper 80's with your boat ps gps showed 85 one time no gas tail current and a tail wind but 80 82 all day.... think about it Mick

[yeller]

Carl....She was knocking pretty good.

Mick, I have Raylar on speed dial. Just waiting to see what size pistons I need.

[silverghost]

With the increased compression & explosion pressure stress of that supercharger you should build the best bottom end rotating assembly you can afford.

Get a good forged crankshaft ,also~ to go along with the forged rods & forged pistons.

[dsparis]

Not trying to be disrespectful but, is your builder looking at the same bearings I am?

[dsparis]

BTW looks like a cast crank

[silverghost]

WOW~
There's still a lot of nasty looking Milky oil there.

You replaced that leaking cooler~
But there must still be some place that that new cooling water is comming from ?

Did you find the cause of all that water in the engine's oil ?

[yeller]

With the increased compression & explosion pressure stress of that supercharger you should build the best bottom end rotating assembly you can afford.

Get a good forged crankshaft ,also~ to go along with the forged rods & forged pistons.

Nope. Going to keep the stock crank if it can be machined. I'm not running 700+ hp. I'm less than 550. Max rpm is 5100, so with that hp, the stock, cast crank is plenty strong enough.

Not trying to be disrespectful but, is your builder looking at the same bearings I am?

Not sure what you're getting at? Bearings are junk. That's obvious. So you're saying.....?

WOW~
There's still a lot of nasty looking Milky oil there.

You replaced that leaking cooler~
But there must still be some place that that new cooling water is comming from ?

Did you find the cause of all that water in the engine's oil ?

Milky oil is left over from when the cooler sprung a leak and I forced the ingested water past the rings. When we pulled the motor, the oil we drained (from the pan) was clean. Problem was...there wasn't enough oil pressure to push the oil to the top end, so that milky oil never got washed out.

[dsparis]

I'm suggesting that with a bearing that burned up the crank will need attention too.