No start

[David Ochs]

Can't get the old girl started. Seems like I've checked everything for the loss of a spark. Have voltage to a brand new coil, have tried (2) brand new replacement electronic ignition modules. Finally checked the primary ignition cable from coil to distributor and there was no continuity, so I changed it and vroooom, it started and sounded very happy. This morning I went to start it and it's a no go.
My 1969 16' still has the original 302 but with a converted "early 70's" era Mopar (go figure) electronic ignition. Thing is, I've been running with this for 20 years and it has been very very reliable.
Only thing I can think to do at this point is to change the distributor with something like the Pertronix with internal electronics.
Can anyone think of something else I might try? And, has anyone had experience with the Pertronix.

Thanks a lot for your opinion,

Dave

[mrfixxall]

Can't get the old girl started. Seems like I've checked everything for the loss of a spark. Have voltage to a brand new coil, have tried (2) brand new replacement electronic ignition modules. Finally checked the primary ignition cable from coil to distributor and there was no continuity, so I changed it and vroooom, it started and sounded very happy. This morning I went to start it and it's a no go.
My 1969 16' still has the original 302 but with a converted "early 70's" era Mopar (go figure) electronic ignition. Thing is, I've been running with this for 20 years and it has been very very reliable.
Only thing I can think to do at this point is to change the distributor with something like the Pertronix with internal electronics.
Can anyone think of something else I might try? And, has anyone had experience with the Pertronix.

Thanks a lot for your opinion,

Dave

first make sure the ignition switch is getting power in crank mode,if it is then try running a gtound wire to the base of the dist..

[David Ochs]

Yes, as stated above, voltage is good at the coil, thus at switch as well. The system does include a ballast resistor ahead of the coil. I have a jumper from the starter side of the relay to provide full voltage to coil while cranking.

[Planetwarmer]

check the kill switch. Sometimes the lanyard can compress over time and wont pull the plunger out far enough

[zelatore]

You verified power to the coil and disty while searching for what turned out to be a bad coil wire. When you had the second problem, did you re-verify power to the ignition components?

Seems unlikely that it would be good yesterday and bad today, but it's quick and easy to check.

If you do have power there, then the kill switch isn't the issue. They are notorious for causing exactly what you are seeing though.

BTW, your sig pic - Tahoe?

[mrfixxall]

You verified power to the coil and disty while searching for what turned out to be a bad coil wire. When you had the second problem, did you re-verify power to the ignition components?

Seems unlikely that it would be good yesterday and bad today, but it's quick and easy to check.

If you do have power there, then the kill switch isn't the issue. They are notorious for causing exactly what you are seeing though.

BTW, your sig pic - Tahoe?

+1..could have shorted the coil and or over heated it and poofed the inside of it.

[Schaf]

Move the shifter. Make sure its locked in

[MOP]

Check voltage drop at the coil as you crank, if you do not have a slave solenoid it is common for it to drop way down.

[David Ochs]

You verified power to the coil and disty while searching for what turned out to be a bad coil wire. When you had the second problem, did you re-verify power to the ignition components?

Seems unlikely that it would be good yesterday and bad today, but it's quick and easy to check.

If you do have power there, then the kill switch isn't the issue. They are notorious for causing exactly what you are seeing though.

BTW, your sig pic - Tahoe?

Yes, Tahoe, good call!
All good comments, and thank you. I am certain that there is some degree of coincidence at play here. So, I have been careful to keep going after things again to hopefully dial in on something. A couple of mentioned items in abolve posts do not apply, the boat has no lanyard kill switch, nor does it have a neutral safety switch.
This morning I tried another new coil wire, and ran a direct line from battery to coil, both positive and negative.
I'll ask again, does anyone have experience with the Pertronix distributors? This is where I am headed now.

Thanks, Dave

[HOWARD O]

Yes, Tahoe, good call!
All good comments, and thank you. I am certain that there is some degree of coincidence at play here. So, I have been careful to keep going after things again to hopefully dial in on something. A couple of mentioned items in abolve posts do not apply, the boat has no lanyard kill switch, nor does it have a neutral safety switch.
This morning I tried another new coil wire, and ran a direct line from battery to coil, both positive and negative.
I'll ask again, does anyone have experience with the Pertronix distributors? This is where I am headed now.
Thanks, Dave

It's a non-use situation. Sell the boat to your little brother, he'll use it and keep it running!

[zelatore]

Haven't messed with Pertronix but generally hear favorable things about them.

While changing it all out will likely solve the probelm, hate to see you throw a big wad at it when you may only need something small. But if you've been thinking of doing the change anyway I suppose this is as good a time as any.

[David Ochs]

Sure got that right hate to keep throwing $ at it, but the distributor is all that's left. My brother may be right. The boat hasn't been out on the water for almost two years, could be it's just plain pissed off at me.

[David Ochs]

I bought a marine Pertronix distributor through Summit Racing (very nice company to deal with).
I've never removed the distributor on a small block Ford, so I had a look online for information. Apparently there are ugly stories of losing the oil pump shaft as it sometimes sticks with the distributor shaft as it is removed.
Probably not the end of the world with a car or truck, but dropping the oil pan on the boat isn't fun.
Anyone have experience with these? Any suggestions for this procedure?
Thanks a lot,
Dave

[mattyboy]

There should be a collar on the oil pump key that keeps it some what in place. You might need to fiddle with the dist to get the key in the dist. Mark where the rotor is pointing on the dist and the intake or block before removing you'll want to get it back right where it left. Also mark the number 1 cyl on the cap

[dsparis]

Theres supposed to be a retaing washer on the shaft that keeps it in the pump. Even without it you shouldnt have problems unless the motor is sludged up.