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Thread: No spark, no fire

  1. #1
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    No spark, no fire

    Ok, the boat has been running great until it randomly starting acting up today. We rebuilt the carb today, put it back on (I actually wasn't there for this part of it), it fired once, then hasn't fired again since.

    Here are the details:
    -Kill switch is in tact
    -No wiring was touched or moved during the carb removal or replacement
    -Most of the wiring is new, and all connections are good
    -Coil is good (tried a replacement just to check)
    -Electronic iginition conversion module in the distributor isn't the problem because I bought a new one today to try, and it didn't help.
    -Motor is turning over fine, just no spark
    -We have ignition power at the coil, but no spark coming out of it when cranking

    This happened when I first brought the boat home nearly two years ago, but removing the points and replacing all of the wiring and distributor cap did the trick. It's been running great ever since.

    Any ideas? We're baffled

    Thanks in advance for the help!
    1970 18 Classic-original

    "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -Benjamin Franklin

  2. #2
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    Voltage ?

    You need to get out the multi-meter and start checking + voltages from your coil & disributor back to your key-switch, lanyard switch, fuses etc.
    Trace your power from the engine back,
    How is your rotor & distributor cap ?
    Is the cap's spring loaded carbon contact still intact ?

    Are you SURE it's the ignition and not that carb you guys just fooled with ?
    Last edited by silverghost; 05-28-2011 at 02:11 AM.
    "BENCHSEAT 18" ~~YellowJacket~~ project owner~
    1929 Chris~Craft 28' Tripple Cockpit Mahogany Speedboat / A-120-A 845 Cu.In. 375 H.P. Chris~Craft V-8 racing engine.
    24' American Skier
    Super Eagle 454 HO Skiboat
    1991 454 SS Chevy Super Sport Pick-up for towing my "Toys".

    There is no such thing as going too fast ~ ~~
    OR~ Being too old~ for a new "Toy"!

    Brad Hunter
    Huntingdon Valley Pa (Just outside Philly)~
    Ocean City NJ
    silverghost1926@msn.com
    215 947 4676 (PA Home)

  3. #3
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    Borrow a pack from you checks so far the pack is suspect, another thing to check is the ground wire from the pack to the bottom of the distributor. If that ground is not making properly the pack will not fire.

    Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  4. #4
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    coil have an internal or external resistor?

  5. #5
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    Alpha Drive??? shift interrupter out of adjustment.

    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverghost View Post
    You need to get out the multi-meter and start checking + voltages from your coil & disributor back to your key-switch, lanyard switch, fuses etc.

    Everything seems to have proper power. That was one of the first things I checked. I haven't taken any voltage readings, though.

    Trace your power from the engine back,
    How is your rotor & distributor cap ?

    Both seem to be ok, but I might replace them just to be sure. A bad cap would certainly be a problem.

    Is the cap's spring loaded carbon contact still intact ?

    Not sure.

    Are you SURE it's the ignition and not that carb you guys just fooled with ?

    Yep, it's ignition. The carb is delivering fuel just fine, but no sparks past the coil.
    Quote Originally Posted by MOP View Post
    Borrow a pack from you checks so far the pack is suspect, another thing to check is the ground wire from the pack to the bottom of the distributor. If that ground is not making properly the pack will not fire.

    I actually woke up this morning thinking that it could be a ground issue. Where exactly might this ground be found?

    Phil
    Quote Originally Posted by Sweet little 16 View Post
    coil have an internal or external resistor?

    It's just a standard coil pack with nothing else in the loop, so my guess is that it's internal.
    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    Alpha Drive??? shift interrupter out of adjustment.



    Good thought, but it's a volvo drive. It will start any most any position.
    Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I'll keep you posted.
    1970 18 Classic-original

    "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -Benjamin Franklin

  7. #7
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    Question

    What?who's ignition are you running! I also assumed Merc. Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOP View Post
    What?who's ignition are you running! I also assumed Merc. Phil
    Do what now? Maybe I should have mentioned that it's a Ford to Volvo package. Sorry.
    1970 18 Classic-original

    "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -Benjamin Franklin

  9. #9
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    So you are running distributor and coil no pack? Or do you have after market?
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  10. #10
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    It's just a standard coil and a distributor.
    1970 18 Classic-original

    "Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." -Benjamin Franklin

  11. #11
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    Lightbulb

    Ok thinking! New module, juice at the coil, also tried a coil. Hook your volt meter to the coil see if the voltage drops off when you try cranking it. You could have a bad coonection that will not carry much if any load.
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  12. #12
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    run a hot wire from the battery straight to the + coil and try to fire..if it fires then your ignition switch or tether is open when in the crank position...


    If you have spark at the coil and not to the sparkplugs then you have either a bad coil wire or a bad ignition rotor..

  13. #13
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    Could the spring loaded center round carbon contact assembly have fallen out of your distributor cap ?
    It can happen~
    If this is indeed the type of cap inside center contact you have on that old H/M Ford ?
    Marine Mallory or Prest-o-lite ?

    Check your high voltage center coil wire connectors & condition & your rotor also~~~as Fixx already had mentioned.
    Last edited by silverghost; 05-28-2011 at 01:26 PM.
    "BENCHSEAT 18" ~~YellowJacket~~ project owner~
    1929 Chris~Craft 28' Tripple Cockpit Mahogany Speedboat / A-120-A 845 Cu.In. 375 H.P. Chris~Craft V-8 racing engine.
    24' American Skier
    Super Eagle 454 HO Skiboat
    1991 454 SS Chevy Super Sport Pick-up for towing my "Toys".

    There is no such thing as going too fast ~ ~~
    OR~ Being too old~ for a new "Toy"!

    Brad Hunter
    Huntingdon Valley Pa (Just outside Philly)~
    Ocean City NJ
    silverghost1926@msn.com
    215 947 4676 (PA Home)

  14. #14
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    i always have a extra cap and rotor wires plugs in the boat in a nice dry place in a bag. i have used the extra 2 times in the last maybe 10 years to get out of a jam. i always save my old parts that worked for backup. not saying it is your problem but a good idea and a way to rule out what it is not.
    this also saves you from hitting yourself in the head.
    nick thescooter

  15. #15
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    I think the first thing I'd check is does the coil fire at all. Sounds like you've tested that you have 12v to it, and you've replaced the ignition modual from your points convertion. If the coil will arc to ground when cranking it's almost certainly the rotor - a cheap and easy fix.

    Heck, could be something as simple as a wet cap/rotor, though I doubt you were working on it in the rain.
    Don
    '01 22 Classic, 502/B1
    And a bunch of other stuff

    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti

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