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Thread: pulled the drive and cant get it back on!!

  1. #1
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    pulled the drive and cant get it back on!!

    I pulled the drive to change the gimble bearing, and now the drive still has an inch to go. Any suggestions?

    I bumped the starter while it was in gear and the prop shaft turns so, Im assuming the splines are aligned.

    The only thing I did was pull the drive, swap the gimble bearing, replace the seals. I did start the boat while the drive was off to confirm the bearing noise I was hearing wasnt in the motor. I thought the bearing might seated, so I pulled the drive off abain and made sure it was.
    Never Kick a opossum at 40 mph!

  2. #2
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    Did it come off easy? If not I'd check the alignment.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  3. #3
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    One word.........

    Alignment..........

    Get a tool, a manual, and get on it!
    You can do it.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  4. #4
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    I got my alignment spot on this spring and the drive slid effortlessly all the way in. Put sticky grease on the splines.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  5. #5
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    if you have a aleignment tool greece it ul and shove it in..the bearing may be out of aleignment,sometimes you may have to hit the end at 12,3,6,and 9 oclock position to center it..also if you replacer the orings closest to the u joints you naat to apply greece to them..

  6. #6
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    I use friendly persuasion.

    Some times it needs just a little more force to get the O rings seated.

    Note: grease does not compress . If you get to much grease, ahead of the spline,it will be hard to seat .

    And always, watch the shifter alignment as you go.
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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  7. #7
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    Even a little rust on the shaft by the orings will make it very tight going into the gimble bearing. Make sure the shaft is clean before installing the orings.
    C16B67 My "baby"
    2012 World Cat 320EC 4.2L V6 F300 Yamahas

  8. #8
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    the drive slid off easily. I dont see how the engine could have gotten out of alignment from the time I took the drive off and reinstalled it a day later.
    Never Kick a opossum at 40 mph!

  9. #9
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    Im going to take the input shaft off the drive and see what its doing inside the gimble. It would be easier to see what is going on and I wont be fighting the drive. Im also going to mic the inside diameter of the bearing and compare it to the outside diameter of the shaft. It really seems like the shaft is getting wedged in there. I had to use a pry-bar and a dead blow hammer to get the drive off the 2nd time I tried to make the thing fit.

    If I find that an alignment is needed, how do I do that?
    Never Kick a opossum at 40 mph!

  10. #10
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    If you have a friendly boat dealer near by they might lend you the tool or you can buy one here: http://www.mercstuff.com/alignmenttool.htm I got the ITS tool. The two pieces make it easy to see the misalignment and get it right. There are threads here that describe the alignment procedure. Search 'em.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Planetwarmer View Post
    the drive slid off easily. I dont see how the engine could have gotten out of alignment from the time I took the drive off and reinstalled it a day later.
    it is not the engine which is out of alignment, it is the new gimble bearing. Have a look at the old one and you will find out you can pivot it horizontally and vertically inside its outer metal ring, it's a swivel bearing- you need the alignment tool to get it aligned with the shaft/engine when it is installed, almost no other way...

  12. #12
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    +1 with bearing being slightly cocked within the race, extremely common! The best way to fix is with the alignment tool, put the tool in and as far is it will go freely then whack it with your hand in all directions as soon as the bearing 0's in the tool will slip in and out like butter.
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by axelkloehn View Post
    Have a look at the old one and you will find out you can pivot it horizontally and vertically inside its outer metal ring, it's a swivel bearing...
    yes: It is called a spherical bearing
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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  14. #14
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    I don't know if this is relevant since I don't know what drive you have, but it sounds like you can install the drive to the point where either the splined input shaft or the bearing surface of the input shaft is not allowing the drive to go on any further. As the others have stated, an alignment tool would make sure it is aligned correctly. What I was going to add is that my TRS drive acted the same way. I discovered that the input shaft has a very slight squared shoulder machined on the shaft at the forward edge of the surface where the bearing seats. It was catching the new bearing so I simply filed it a little (very little) to create a slight bevel instead of a sharp leading edge. The drive went right on after I did this. Just wanted to pass this along in case it is relevant. Bill

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

  15. #15
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    i agree
    Alignment..........
    get the tool.
    it is not that hard a job,

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