Powder coated rail....

[gcarter]

This isn't the first time I've done this. Some of you may remember I had the Minx's rail powdercoated red. Some of you liked it and some didn't.
The color was an interesting contrast, but I might not have done that boat that way again.
Today I picked up the rails and other parts from the PC shop.
I'm pretty pleased.
A note. This is difficult to shoot in the bright sun light. It is very shiny w/a LOT of metallic.

[pipnit]

It looks pretty cool.

Were they new or did you use the old ones? Can you even doctor up alum (filler, etc) before powder coating or would it melt?

[Buddyc]

I have the original ones from the 66 but they were beat up...that is a great option I can use it

[Just Say N20]

The aluminum rails on the Ski-Sporter were pretty nicked up, and I didn't want to purchase new rails, because the hull/deck joint was already looking like swiss cheese. I had them powder coated white, and they turned out very nicely. The PC covered most of the "dock rash."

Looks good George. I had a hard time deciding between a silver color like yours or the white.

[gcarter]

One of the main reasons for this decision was because these original pieces are about 14' long. That length is no longer available. To PC the rail completely rejuvinates the rail, and gives it a superior, longer lasting finish.
BTW, this stuff cleans up real well w/acetone.

[jvcobra]

I like it but doesn't that defeat the function of the "rub" rail?

[Just Say N20]

I like it but doesn't that defeat the function of the "rub" rail?

Yes. I don't really understand the thinking behind having an all aluminum, or all stainless rub rail, because any contact with anything harder than a wooden post is going to damage it.

From that perspective, I guess white will show more damage because it is aluminum color under it. George's shouldn't be so bad.

[GBond]

Gunnel rail looks good. Thanks, for not making it red.

[gcarter]

The PC on the Minx held up VERY well.
I had no scratches on it. The PC finish was much tougher than the bare aluminum of the original rail.

[handfulz28]

Thanks for starting a new thread on PC'ing the rail. I've started thinking I might do this for my '77 Hornet II. I don't have an original metal rail, and it just might have come with a rubber that takes an insert? Not sure because the seller gave me a long coil of rubber rail that he was planning on using.

But the metal one I'm thinking of using will actually be donated by my '82 Formula donor hull. That seller had an extra piece of the base rail, plus the 3 pieces still on the hull. I haven't tried fitting them yet so I'm really just brain-farting at this point but obviously your efforts are my inspiration.

I'll be really lucky if these rail pieces work since they're all around 20' long accept for the front. So finally my questions after all this - besides transporting 20' long pieces, have you found it difficult to find someone that can PC the long pieces? Are you willing to share an approximate $ figure for this work? I love the silver you've done, but I'm not sure what color(s) I'm going with yet. My rails are currently just a flat black, and I'm not sure if I'd go with another metal insert (if that would even work), or perhaps a vinyl insert.

Thanks George for sharing all your efforts. I even searched old threads to get the name of the fiberglass book you recommend; ordered from Ebay today. Soon I'll start a thread for transom rebuild options, since this hull has only the narrow build-up. Not sure whether to stay narrow, go full-width, or perhaps hybrid...

[gcarter]

The PC shop makes fencing and the PC is a side line. For them, long pieces are no problem. Shop around, they seem to be everywhere.
So, a breakdown;
Four pieces of rail sand blasted and coated.
Four clamshell vents ditto.
One cast oil pan and two cast valve covers sand blasted.
Total $210.00.
I'm very pleased.

[gcarter]

It looks pretty cool.

Were they new or did you use the old ones? Can you even doctor up alum (filler, etc) before powder coating or would it melt?

Powder coating by its nature goes on pretty thick and fills a lot of the normal 24 year old rash. I didn't fill anything, it wasn't needed.
All I did was sand the majority of it w/a DA and 80 grit paper. It knocked down all the high spots very effectivel and the PC fills all the voids.

[margo]

I inquired on getting mine coated on my minx..Turned ou there is no one in my area that does it, and the cost to ship the pieces and have them done was quite expensive..The answer was do it my self..I filled the nicks and rash with alumin filler,sanded and sprayed with silver hammer finish by rustoleum..I,m careful not to hit any docks and fenders don,t affect it..It,s easy to repair just take out the screws in the area pull it back tape it off and spray...Blends right in...15.00 invested...

[pipnit]

Margo, when did you do this? Any time under your belt with them?

I've always hit aluminum with Galv. spray paint before bombing it with Krylon, I've been told it'll adhere better. That hammered finish paint is pretty cool though isn't it?

[silverghost]

George~
What a fantastic price for all that powder-coating.
You could not have it done near Philly for anything close to that money .
It costs almost as much as chrome work around this area. $$$$
These guys are spoiled by all the sreetrod/hotrod work they already have.