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Thread: Pulling the mill in an X-18...Questions.

  1. #1
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    Pulling the mill in an X-18...Questions.

    Hi all. I'm planning on pulling the mill out of my X this weekend for some bilge work, some gasket replacement and an engine paint job. I have a 280 drive. I know that I have to take the outdrive, or at least the upper, off. What do I need to take off of the rear of the engine? I've searched for Rootsy's removal steps to no avail, and have seen some posts where some have unbolted the bellhousing. Does anything have to be unbolted? Does it just slide out of the transom mount or do I have to remove the 6 nuts at the tail of the bellhousing? My Clymer Volvo manual leaves a bit to be desired...

    Thanks!
    -Kev

  2. #2
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    I have a Volvo 290 Drive.

    I believe they are similar, if not someone will chime in and correct me.

    If you look at the pictures of a 280 housing in this thread, it will make more sense.

    To remove the engine, unbolt the bell housing from the block. There will be either 4 or 6 bolts. With the front engine mounts undone, and the engine being lifted slightly, slide the engine forward. This will allow the splined shaft that fits into the flywheel to come out. You should them be able to rotate the engine and lift it out.

    You don't have to remove the outdrive. The bell housing is a one piece unit that houses the bearings and shaft that connects to the universals in the top of the outdrive. The housing comes off INTO the boat. Leaving it attached to the engine will only make getting the engine out that much hard because the engine "unit" will be much longer.

    Post #1, 4th picture:
    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64806


    Post #25,:
    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...ht=deck&page=5

    Post #323, 4th Picture:
    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthre...t=deck&page=22
    “Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer

    Bill
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    1985 Donzi Criterion SS
    1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
    38' Carver Aft Cabin
    1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
    10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude

  3. #3
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    Quote Originally Posted by Dakari View Post
    Hi all. I'm planning on pulling the mill out of my X this weekend for some bilge work, some gasket replacement and an engine paint job. I have a 280 drive. I know that I have to take the outdrive, or at least the upper, off. What do I need to take off of the rear of the engine? I've searched for Rootsy's removal steps to no avail, and have seen some posts where some have unbolted the bellhousing. Does anything have to be unbolted? Does it just slide out of the transom mount or do I have to remove the 6 nuts at the tail of the bellhousing? My Clymer Volvo manual leaves a bit to be desired...

    Thanks!

    i leave the drive and all on the boat..their is a inspection cover betwen the oil pan and the bell housing that will need to be removed and just your basic exhaust risers,wireing, intake hose,bell housing bolts and motor mounts which i inbolt from the block and leace in the boat..i can remove my engine in about 45 minutes this way..

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    Thanks guys. You both exemplify what makes the Registry such an awesome place. I've already detached and labeled the wiring and hoses, so all that's left is the bellhousing and engine mounts. Should be a snap, I hope!
    -Kev

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    I found another picture that might be helpful.

    Please forgive the mess. I bought it this way.
    “Oh right, because you walked into strippers discount warehouse and said ‘Help me showcase my intellect.’” - Archer

    Bill
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    1985 Donzi Criterion SS
    1967 Donzi 16 Ski Sporter, C16-409, Has a new home!
    38' Carver Aft Cabin
    1968 Sea Ray SRV 180 w/1975 70 hp Evinrude
    10" RIB w/15 hp 1984 Evinrude

  6. #6
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    I take out the motor with the bell housing and tailpiece on. It's a little tight but works for me. With the right combo of sockets and extentions you can get this assembly out with the outdrive still on. The outdrive needs to be off for the install though.
    Maddy's Daddy
    L.I.,N.Y.

  7. #7
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    The outdrive needs to be off for the install though.

    nope!! i have done many many with the outdrive still on the boat..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrfixxall View Post
    The outdrive needs to be off for the install though.

    nope!! i have done many many with the outdrive still on the boat..
    I could see it being done with an extra set of hands getting the u-joints on the shaft, I seem to end up doing it alone in the middle of the night though.
    Maddy's Daddy
    L.I.,N.Y.

  9. #9
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    Quote Originally Posted by maddad View Post
    I could see it being done with an extra set of hands getting the u-joints on the shaft, I seem to end up doing it alone in the middle of the night though.

    Actually its real easy as long as you only remove the 3 bolts out of each motor mount to the block..Then all you have to worrie about is the damper plate that bolted to the flywheel to the input shaft in the bell housing..its like lighing up a clutch to a transmission but you dont have to worrie about the pilot bearing because their isn't one on a boat

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