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Thread: U-joint Grease

  1. #1
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    U-joint Grease

    What's a good grease to use for the U-joints ?
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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    BG synthetic wheel bearing grease
    FISH HARD

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    To stay consistent and to standardize on one grease, I use Mercury 2-4-C in everything, U-joints, trailer wheel bearings, prop shafts, gimbal bearings, anything...
    If you on the sho', then you sho' not me, yo.

    1997 18 Classic 350 MAG/MPI Bravo -
    2004 Formula 27PC T-350 MAG/MPI Bravo III

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranman View Post
    To stay consistent and to standardize on one grease, I use Mercury 2-4-C in everything, U-joints, trailer wheel bearings, prop shafts, gimbal bearings, anything...
    Ran: Thanks,for the Mercury Suggestion. The 2-4-c is not for needle bearings, but it led me to the Gimbal and U-joint grease 1662089. I probably would have never of thought to go the Quick Silver route .This is probably better for wheel bearings too. It comes in a 3oz three pack for the mini grease gun. Thanks again!

    Mercury 2-4-C with Teflon 8 oz. Tube Description A high quality multi-purpose lubricant to withstand extreme fiction and also providing added water resistance. Can not be used on needle bearings or other internal engine parts. 8 oz. Tube.





    Mercury Marine 1662089 Quicksilver U-Joint and Gimbal Bearing Grease
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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    synthetic,,, basically they are all made the same synthetic is the way to go the 2-4-c is too light for needle bearings it wont stay where it is needed
    FISH HARD

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    I'd like to load my grease gun with just one cartridge that I could use for everything and lube my trailer hubs and tow vehicle too. Am I asking too much ? Do synthetics mix with whatevers already there?
    Donzi Sweet 16 "Heartbeat" -Beaver Lake, Arkansas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishermanjm View Post
    synthetic,,, basically they are all made the same synthetic is the way to go the 2-4-c is too light for needle bearings it wont stay where it is needed
    There are so many synthetics to choose from too. I like the idea of Molykote,but I'm going with the Quicksilver 1662089 specific for U-joints.The U-joints were 23 yrs old and they actually were still good, but I had a leaking bellows with a bad gimbal bearing 2 yrs ago.Never truly trusted them and I didn't want to take the chance, on a failure .
    I replaced them with heavy duty Quicksilvers,just for the confidence factor.Same for the grease that is specific use. "No worries on my part".
    Thanks for the input, I will most likely be using your recommendation on my trailer bearings
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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    Quote Originally Posted by DannyK View Post
    I'd like to load my grease gun with just one cartridge that I could use for everything and lube my trailer hubs and tow vehicle too. Am I asking too much ? Do synthetics mix with whatevers already there?
    I don't think Your asking to much.But I think you have to buy the top end grease . Like, high temp,high speed, high pressure,moister and chemical resistant, and so on.Most of the time the old grease will purge out, when you pump in the new. Basically grease is oil with an emulsifier of lard or soap. the Synthetic tends to use a non mineral oil base lubricants, which fairs better at cold start up and high temperatures. In other words extreme temps on both sides of the spectrum.synthetic oils have a higher shear rate, which helps to eliminate metal to metal contact under extreme loads.
    Note * There are some plastics that can crack from silicon grease. Moly grease is a better than silicon and leaves a residual film that tends to reduce friction even when the grease dries out.
    machinist ,bore it deeper,ream it bigger, and lap it to a fine finish



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    I just bought this to use only on the boat and trailer. I got it at AutoZone and it will go in a special marked grease gun.
    Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron, Lake Erie, Lake Oakland

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    Quote Originally Posted by joseph m. hahnl View Post
    I don't think Your asking to much.But I think you have to buy the top end grease . Like, high temp,high speed, high pressure,moister and chemical resistant, and so on.Most of the time the old grease will purge out, when you pump in the new. Basically grease is oil with an emulsifier of lard or soap. the Synthetic tends to use a non mineral oil base lubricants, which fairs better at cold start up and high temperatures. In other words extreme temps on both sides of the spectrum.synthetic oils have a higher shear rate, which helps to eliminate metal to metal contact under extreme loads.
    Note * There are some plastics that can crack from silicon grease. Moly grease is a better than silicon and leaves a residual film that tends to reduce friction even when the grease dries out.
    Moly, is considered a "reserve boundry lubricant."

    My 2 cents.

    Ken

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHACHI View Post
    Moly, is considered a "reserve boundry lubricant."

    My 2 cents.

    Ken
    Ken, would you elaborate?

    Are there greases that shouldn't be mixed?
    George Carter
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    I "Believe" the grease in my grease gun is Lithium..but I can't elaborate because I am not about to open/unscrew the grease gun to look at the tube inside. NOPE. I use it for the U-Joints, all the grease fittings on the drive, and the wheel bearings on the trailer. If there is a grease fitting, I use the Lithium Grease.

    I use 2-4-C on the U-Joint spline, and prop shaft spline, and the shift linkage in the drive...if there is no grease fitting I use 2-4-C.

    I bought a NEW Alpha I, Gen I Merc outdrive three years ago. There are NO Longer any grease fittings on the U-Joints. DJ
    Avatar: RELIANCE (1903) The Largest single masted sailing yacht ever built (Until 2004)...with over 16,000 square feet of sail. Successful Americas Cup Defender.
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    That's true Jon. The new u-joints are greaseless units now
    same on automotive applications. Someone found a way to
    save a lil money by leavin out the grease fitting. Sealed bearings
    FISH HARD

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    I use Redline Synthetic in u joints and wheel bearings, on my boats and also on the race cars we build and serivice at my shop.

    We often disassemble new components and clean out all of the factory grease and replace it with Redline. Needle bearings and ball bearings, our past experience has proven this to be a far superior grease.


    Mario L.
    www.VSR1.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Ken, would you elaborate?

    Are there greases that shouldn't be mixed?
    George, yes there are greases that are not to mixed, but I will have to wait until tomorrow to get the info.

    Most greases are aluminum complex#2 and lithium complex #2.

    The #2 is the "viscosity" of the grease.

    I will try to find more info domani.

    Ken

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