Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Oil Pans for offshore use

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    1,442
    Rep Power
    23

    Oil Pans for offshore use

    no one seems to be able to give me a definitive answer to this . . . . .

    I am restoring a Magnum 27 with twin 383 SBC engines . . these engines will be close to 500 HP each, and will see 6K rpm use . . .

    Both will have oil coolers, remote filters . . and the boat will see offshore and rough water use . .

    To that end I'm getting all sorts of suggestions on oil pans . .

    Canton makes a bunch of SBC pans, all configurations . . their 8 Qt pan is a full length deep pan . .

    There are various pans that have a deep rear sump, and T bottom pans as well.
    As the engines will see high rpms and rough water, I will use a scraper and a windage tray.

    Do I use a large volume pan with a deep rear sump, or do I use a full length sump with a large volume ?
    The latter seems like oil can move forward on landings, regardless of baffling . .

    My thinking is a deep rear sump and 6-7 qt capacity as the cooler, lines and remote filter will add 1-2 quarts capacity . . . for a total close to 9 qts . .

    and there is plenty of space below the engines for a deep sump . . .

    thoughts wanted!!!

    Mario L.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    4,744
    Rep Power
    25
    That ought to do it.

    I have a custom T pan with the trap doors and special windage tray on the ZX. My total capacity is around 15 quarts. If you are pushing 9-10 in a small block, that should do it.
    2001 35 Fountain Lightning w500 EFI's
    1973 X-18 - Merc 383 Magnum
    1974 Chris Craft Roamer with 1271 TI's

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    9,571
    Rep Power
    32
    keep in mind the higher the rpm level the less oil in the pan at that level....

    so pan *capacity* is your friend, first and foremost..

    anything over and above that with lines, coolers and filters is a bonus
    Charter Member - WAFNC, SBBR, KWOSG
    1955 Perfect Mate
    1986 Hornet III, 502-415 TRS

    www.donzi.org


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    1,442
    Rep Power
    23
    so rear sump . . . .vs . . . full length sump . . ?

    http://marine-performance-parts.com/18100.aspx

    or

    http://www.daymotorsports.com/produc...TITION_OIL_PAN

    I just want to get this right the first time . . fortunately I have lots of space below the sumps and no bilge pump interference.

    Mario

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    3
    Rep Power
    0
    I have used several canton pans, and all their pans have traps in the sump allowing oil in to the pick up area but not out. Also i agree with the post above, the more capacity the better, as long as you have the clearance you need for a big pan!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    A full length sump will reduce windage losses.
    Canton probably makes the best wet sump pan available.

    Jeff
    " Just piercing the surface"

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    2,886
    Rep Power
    22
    Mario, just make sure if you run a larger capacity pan you can bring the oil up to temp in a reasonable amount of time. If you can't, you know the drill, oil thermostats.

    Ken

  8. #8
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    personally, i would run the kick out pan,reason that is the style i have been using for 10 yrs on my x..never had any op loss and it keeps more oil around the pick up tube..the full length ones are a pain to work around especially if you have offshore mounts..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    133
    Rep Power
    0
    Not sure what your dipstick requiremnts are .. some sbc are in the pan.. Canton would be my choice
    Matt

    1987 22 Classic
    502mpi B1XR

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    870
    Rep Power
    23
    Mario, I use a B&B road racing pan that has gates and baffles along with kicked out sides to keep the oil from running back up the walls. It came with a bolt on large tube pickup that has bracing welded on. It also has it's own dipstick and bungs for oil temp/low volume warning. A windage screen and scraper are installed on the pan. With the cooler and remote filter I carry 8/9 qts with none of it in the shallow part of the pan at rest.
    Maddy's Daddy
    L.I.,N.Y.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    The kick-outs would be a priority as well.

    Jeff
    " Just piercing the surface"

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Posts
    870
    Rep Power
    23
    I forgot to mention any changing of a full size starter with my B&B pan is a nightmare of epic proportions.
    Maddy's Daddy
    L.I.,N.Y.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Posts
    1,442
    Rep Power
    23
    My engines are built with new DART blocks, and the dipstick location is different.

    Interesting point on changing the starter, I need to consider that . . in the Magnum with twin engines, requires one to be a major contortionist . . not for my old body . . and plus Chevy really never did design a good mounting method for an item that is an essential service item . .

    I'm leaning towards the full length pan for the reason Hall J mentioned, windage control . .I will be running an oil T-stat . IMO you can't run an oil cooler without it!

    Engine efficiency is partially about thermal equalibrium . . I want my oil and coolant at the same temp . .

    Looking at some pans this week, I ordered a couple and will return what I don't like.

    Mario L.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    275
    Rep Power
    0
    Here is my old cast aluminum pan...kind of "old school" though. (sorry I couldn't shrink the size down enough)

    Bob

    Covington, Washington
    1966 Donzi 16' Hull #16-226



    here are some short videos...

    a little video clip of our boat idling over to the boat launch so you can hear it.
    http://www.youtube.com/v/GSx8zAmi3R0

    Eaton outdrive rotating 101
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auaFB...yer_detailpage

    thread on our boat
    http://www.donzi.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61975


    Video of the boat on the trailer

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9qXz4CJS8U

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    470
    Rep Power
    20
    Quote Originally Posted by mphatc View Post
    My engines are built with new DART blocks, and the dipstick location is different.

    Interesting point on changing the starter, I need to consider that . . in the Magnum with twin engines, requires one to be a major contortionist . . not for my old body . . and plus Chevy really never did design a good mounting method for an item that is an essential service item . .

    I'm leaning towards the full length pan for the reason Hall J mentioned, windage control . .I will be running an oil T-stat . IMO you can't run an oil cooler without it!

    Engine efficiency is partially about thermal equalibrium . . I want my oil and coolant at the same temp . .

    Looking at some pans this week, I ordered a couple and will return what I don't like.

    Mario L.
    Do your bellhousings have provisions to mount the starter?
    They will have to spin reverse of course.

    If so, you could get a full length kick-out on your pan.

    Jeff
    " Just piercing the surface"

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •