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Thread: Need help, another trailer thread....

  1. #1
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    Need help, another trailer thread....

    Well, in two years I managed to rebuild the stringers, bildge and part of the transom on the Critter. Installed a 540 Merc Bulldog. Boat is running great. Now it is time to focus on the weak link- my trailer.....

    It came on a 1988 Continental steel trailer that is a big fat piece of chit and is too long for it. I am po (that would be poor, but I am too broke to afford the other "o" and "r" in poor, so I am just po). I would like a tandem axle and don't care what it is made of as I only boat in fresh water. It needs to be VERY affordable.....any ideas? Don't care if it is a kit or not either.....

    Thanks
    1979 Donzi Criterion
    1997 Classic 16
    2007 G3 w/ Yamaha 90 hp jet outboard
    Jackson Hole, WY
    www.jacksonholealltrans.com


    Just my .02, which in this economy, is only worth .01, and actually is less than that since my original .02 isn't really worth .02.

  2. #2
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    Quote Originally Posted by Donziweasel View Post
    Well, in two years I managed to rebuild the stringers, bildge and part of the transom on the Critter. Installed a 540 Merc Bulldog. Boat is running great. Now it is time to focus on the weak link- my trailer.....

    It came on a 1988 Continental steel trailer that is a big fat piece of chit and is too long for it. I am po (that would be poor, but I am too broke to afford the other "o" and "r" in poor, so I am just po). I would like a tandem axle and don't care what it is made of as I only boat in fresh water. It needs to be VERY affordable.....any ideas? Don't care if it is a kit or not either.....

    Thanks

    John, lets start with some pic's..look om ebay...Theirs alot of good deals on axles if we need to make it a tandom axle trailer..All you have to do to shorten it is work from the back and do dome cutting fo make it fit..me personally i would scoot it forward on the trailer and use the left over sticking out to protect the boat in case you were in a rear end collision..kinda like i did with mine but i used the extra sricking out to set my drive on because the way volvo penta supported their drive ''up'' with this little steel BS bracket that was a pain to get in and usually scratched up the paint..

  3. #3
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    mrfixxall, Would you like a power trim set-up for your VOLVO drive ? "HIGH LIFE"

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donziweasel View Post
    Well, in two years I managed to rebuild the stringers, bildge and part of the transom on the Critter. Installed a 540 Merc Bulldog. Boat is running great. Now it is time to focus on the weak link- my trailer.....

    It came on a 1988 Continental steel trailer that is a big fat piece of chit and is too long for it. I am po (that would be poor, but I am too broke to afford the other "o" and "r" in poor, so I am just po). I would like a tandem axle and don't care what it is made of as I only boat in fresh water. It needs to be VERY affordable.....any ideas? Don't care if it is a kit or not either.....

    Thanks
    My boat has the original trailer underneath it (probably much like your Continental) and I did a quickie restore on it at the beginning of summer. Replaced the bunks, fixed some of the rust and painted it. The brakes were shot, so it's now brakeless but I have big truck. Cost me about $100 to get me to and from the launch ramp once a year. My water is brackish though and I'm afraid the trailer won't last too much longer. Then I'll go shopping for a nice aluminum trailer that I can actually travel with.

    But if I were in fresh water, I would've absolutely spent some time and money on it for a total restore. Would've been FAR cheaper and better than any trailer I could've bought, new or used.

    If you're po' right now, work with whatcha got! How bad off is your current trailer? If it ain't rusted, make it work!




  5. #5
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    Mike, I am looking.

    Howard, I have thought about it. It just doesn't seem to fit the boat very well. I haven't had much time to mess with it. I hate the coupler, surge brakes that don't work, worn out bunks, and it is one ugly SOB!

    I take it Aluminum is more expensive than galvanized? Wieght doesn't matter much to me, I have a F-350 turbo diesel crew cab.
    1979 Donzi Criterion
    1997 Classic 16
    2007 G3 w/ Yamaha 90 hp jet outboard
    Jackson Hole, WY
    www.jacksonholealltrans.com


    Just my .02, which in this economy, is only worth .01, and actually is less than that since my original .02 isn't really worth .02.

  6. #6
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    Hmmmm.....refurbishing might be an option. Replace coupler, get rid of crappy surge brakes that don't work with electric, replace fenders and bunks. Replace front rollers. Paint it to match the Critter. It might work, only issue is getting boat off trailer right now. Lake is 30 miles away and most likely frozen.
    1979 Donzi Criterion
    1997 Classic 16
    2007 G3 w/ Yamaha 90 hp jet outboard
    Jackson Hole, WY
    www.jacksonholealltrans.com


    Just my .02, which in this economy, is only worth .01, and actually is less than that since my original .02 isn't really worth .02.

  7. #7
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    Quick question, do you have to do anything specail to paint galvanized steel?
    1979 Donzi Criterion
    1997 Classic 16
    2007 G3 w/ Yamaha 90 hp jet outboard
    Jackson Hole, WY
    www.jacksonholealltrans.com


    Just my .02, which in this economy, is only worth .01, and actually is less than that since my original .02 isn't really worth .02.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donziweasel View Post
    Quick question, do you have to do anything specail to paint galvanized steel?
    Can't do it. Paint will fall OFF. DJ
    Avatar: RELIANCE (1903) The Largest single masted sailing yacht ever built (Until 2004)...with over 16,000 square feet of sail. Successful Americas Cup Defender.
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    1986 Minx. SBC 350/260hp, Alpha I. Red, Honey.

  9. #9
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    Quote Originally Posted by Donziweasel View Post
    Quick question, do you have to do anything specail to paint galvanized steel?

    Da it with 80 grit follow with 120 then get some ppg dp epoxy primer and spray 3 coats on it then da with 320 then go to the Sherwin Williams store and get some hi solids polyurethane paint (b65 w 311) and hardener (b60 v 30).. this a marine paint and it needs to be thinned or you can roll it on and it shines like a mofo..the stuff is cheep too,i think i paid $120.00 for the paint and hardener..i use it in bilges too and nothing will hurt it..

    https://www.nysdot.gov/divisions/eng...win-finish.pdf

    do you have a lift at your shop? a fork lift? you can get the boat off the trailer with any lifting devise, then set in on some Styrofoam blocks while your rebuilding the trailer..

  10. #10
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    Forklift.
    1979 Donzi Criterion
    1997 Classic 16
    2007 G3 w/ Yamaha 90 hp jet outboard
    Jackson Hole, WY
    www.jacksonholealltrans.com


    Just my .02, which in this economy, is only worth .01, and actually is less than that since my original .02 isn't really worth .02.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donziweasel View Post
    Forklift.

    You have a forklift and you're worried about getting the boat off the trailer?

    Come on now, that's a gimme!

    I can only DREAM of having a fork lift and I managed it!

    And if you're feeling feisty, break out the welder and some scrap square tube and make up a couple dollies to set it on while you work on the trailer.
    Don
    '01 22 Classic, 502/B1
    And a bunch of other stuff

    "If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonziJon View Post
    Can't do it. Paint will fall OFF. DJ
    I had my galvanized trailer painted. Never had a problem with the paint coming off. It does require extra prep work and etching primer though. I don't know what the steps were and what the primer was, because I didn't do the work.

    I'd be real careful using a DA. Easy to grind through the galvanizing.
    Why is faster never fast enough.

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