trim sender

[TBroccoli]

Can a trim sender be repaired? One of my two wires at the sender corroded loose right at the sender. It looks like the connection is sealed.

[DonziJon]

Can a trim sender be repaired? One of my two wires at the sender corroded loose right at the sender. It looks like the connection is sealed.

Trim senders are bullet proof. Open it up and have a look. Wiring from the semder to the boat is CRAP. Replace wireing. PITA. Look for another recent thread on this.

[LKSD]

Usually not worth doing unless you have a fairly new sensor and enough lead to use an adhesive lined waterproof heat shrink connector.. Otherwise replacing the sensor is usually the best thing to do, even though it is a PITA...

My guess is that if the wire broke that the casing for the wire & the wire it self was brittle from age & use, so replacing the kit is probably best... Here is the other bad part. Sometimes the screws that hold the sensors for trim & tilt in and allow them to be calibrated to the boat. Also the wiring gets routed thru the transom assembly & to do that is also a PITA because the drive must be off, bell ousing out or loose and it is still aggravating to a small extent..

The good news is I think the sensor kit is about a 100- or less yet if my memory is correct. I can send you a kit if you need one just give me a shout.. Jamie / Lakeside

[Papu]

Interesting that this thread just popped up. My trim gauge just became schizophrenic...needle bounces all over when trim lever is pressed, even with the boat standing still. It is still able to approximate the tilt of the drive, however. I'm assuming I need to open the sender case and clean the pot with CRC but I can't get to the boat again till this weekend. If that doesn't cure the problem is there another avenue to take? The wires to the sender look brand new.
Phil

[gcarter]

I think "Pain In The Azz" is an understatement.
I think it's really more like kidney stones!

[LKSD]

Interesting that this thread just popped up. My trim gauge just became schizophrenic...needle bounces all over when trim lever is pressed, even with the boat standing still. It is still able to approximate the tilt of the drive, however. I'm assuming I need to open the sender case and clean the pot with CRC but I can't get to the boat again till this weekend. If that doesn't cure the problem is there another avenue to take? The wires to the sender look brand new.
Phil

IMO there are no other "good" venues for repair that I would consider worthwhile besides what has been discussed.. We replace many of them a year, you get used to what is involved. However it still can be a little stressful even when you have the procedure down to a science.. Hopefully you wont have to go into it further.. J

[justleft]

Just throw that friggen POS in the trash.

We had a pallet (100s) of warrenty returns and I went thru 20 with rotted little contact wiper arms and
20 more with the resistance surfaces torn up to build a couple that worked.

As an electronics guy, I really hate to say it but..... Go high end mechanical.

[TBroccoli]

I just noticed my trim limit switch on the port side has bare wire showing. Its just a matter of time. I will try to live with it till the end of the season and replace both. I better start reading up on drive removal.

[gcarter]

I just noticed my trim limit switch on the port side has bare wire showing. Its just a matter of time. I will try to live with it till the end of the season and replace both. I better start reading up on drive removal.

Do yourself a favor and buy a drive stand on eBay. It'll make all the difference in R&R the drive.
You'll really be glad you did.

[TBroccoli]

Has anyone purchased new trim sender kit, installed both and spliced the new wires to the old instead of removing the drive to run the wires through the transom? has anyone been able to tape new wires to the old ones and pull them through the transom? Is the holding bolt accessable without removng the drive?

I'm trying to replace the sender and limit switch without removing the drive? Is it possible? I habe a bravo 1.

[Tidbart]

Has anyone purchased new trim sender kit, installed both and spliced the new wires to the old instead of removing the drive to run the wires through the transom? has anyone been able to tape new wires to the old ones and pull them through the transom? Is the holding bolt accessable without removng the drive?

I'm trying to replace the sender and limit switch without removing the drive? Is it possible? I have a bravo 1.

Don't waste your time splicing in a new sender. Replace it all or nothing.
The old wiring will allow water penetration eventually due to compromised insulation. The water will travel the wires to the new sender and you will end up with the same situation you are in now.

Bob

[Tidbart]

Also, while you are in there replace the bellows. Same procedure.

B

[gcarter]

Has anyone purchased new trim sender kit, installed both and spliced the new wires to the old instead of removing the drive to run the wires through the transom? has anyone been able to tape new wires to the old ones and pull them through the transom? Is the holding bolt accessable without removng the drive?

I'm trying to replace the sender and limit switch without removing the drive? Is it possible? I habe a bravo 1.

Maybe an illustration would be best. You can see in this picture the wires and seal is located above the top of the bellows and through the gimbal housing.



The next picture shows the bellows, but still no bell housing;



And finally w/the bell housing in place;



As you can see, there's not a lot of space there to stick your hands into.
I've read of people changing the senders w/o removing the bell housing, but their hands must be much smaller than mine.
This is also an excellant time to replace the bellows.
All you need is the senders, $75.00 on eBay.
Bellows, ring, and adhesive, it comes in a kit and it's maybe $100.00 on eBay.
Seals and O-rings for R&R the drive, $5.00-$10.00 on eBay.
The total job shouldn't take more than 3-4 hours including R&R the drive.
Probably longer the first time. Study your manual, really get familiar w/the steps involved.
.

As far as splicing goes, yeah, you could do it, but the kit is still $75.00, and if you intend to do it right at the end of the season, then that's another $75.00.

[Papu]

Thanks for all your advice guys...will get back to this thread after its fixed...hopefully with all my digits still attached.

[TBroccoli]

GCarter,

Great explaination (pics are great). I will do the job correctly at the end of the season, including bellows and everything else.

Thank you, Tom