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Thread: pre start oil pressure

  1. #1
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    pre start oil pressure

    I don't run my boat very often and am always a little leary of all the oil being in the bottom of the oil pan everytime I start it up

    i have seen ads for a devise that builds up pressure (using air maybe?) that you turn on prior to starting the motor

    has anyone had any experience with this type of product and does it even work?

    is it worth the hassle or just run an additive (like lucas) (which i do)
    Please keep in mind I don't know anything......
    any information I have is made up.....
    and generally I am part of the problem
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    Pre-lubers are a good idea, but pricey unless you find a deal on eBay or something.
    It's nothing more than a hydraulic accumulator w/a solenoid valve located at the inlet. Pressure is maintained in the accumulator and when you crank the starter, the solenoid opens and releases the pressure in the accumulator into the engine.
    I think the way it maintains pressure is there's a check valve in the inlet also, so that the accumulator will have the highest pressure the engine has, (probably right after it starts cold).
    George Carter
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    There's an easier/cheaper way to do it though.
    Simply pull your safety switch and crank the engine until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Reconnect the switch and start.
    This doesn't take but a few seconds.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
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    THANKS GEORGE

    i sort of do that now by pulling the coil wire if it has been a real long time

    was just thinking it might wear components because it is still moving parts without oil on them

    am I overthinking this?
    Please keep in mind I don't know anything......
    any information I have is made up.....
    and generally I am part of the problem
    VICE President-Weller's Bay DONZI Association

    OFFICIAL LAKE GEORGE POKER RUN CHAMPION

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    There's an easier/cheaper way to do it though.
    Simply pull your safety switch and crank the engine until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Reconnect the switch and start.
    This doesn't take but a few seconds.
    Free Prelube. I like it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by glashole View Post
    THANKS GEORGE

    i sort of do that now by pulling the coil wire if it has been a real long time

    was just thinking it might wear components because it is still moving parts without oil on them

    am I overthinking this?
    There's plenty of oil on all the bearings, etc. for cranking speeds.
    Don't worry about it.
    Besides, the amount of time it takes is only a few seconds.

    I think the ideal would be to add a switch under the dash for the purple wire going to the coil. Just turn it off and crank, then flip it on.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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    you won't get the full journal lube until the engine rotates anyway due to oil hole alignment

    but some is better then nothing..
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  8. #8
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    i have a seperate starter button,,hold it for 10 seconds and turn the ignition on

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    Fix beat me 2 it, a separate starter to crank it without ignition 4-5 turns the gauges will show pressure, then turn the key on and start it.

    Phil
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    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    There's an easier/cheaper way to do it though.
    Simply pull your safety switch and crank the engine until you see oil pressure on the gauge. Reconnect the switch and start.
    This doesn't take but a few seconds.
    That would be no different than starting it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuda View Post
    That would be no different than starting it.
    Depends on how quickly your engine starts.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuda View Post
    That would be no different than starting it.
    Not so much, the compression is still there but combuston (when it fires) adds stress.

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    Anyone know what rpm a typical motor turns as the starter cranks it? I figure once it fires, it will accelerate almost instantaneously up to 6 or 8 hundred RPM, under considerably more stress, right?

    Sounds like keeping the spark out for 5-10 seconds might help a lot.

    Also makes me wonder if the new Merc TurnKeyIgnition, if it works, might actually cause some engines to wear more than the ones that crank for a few seconds and start a little reluctantly.

    Just thinking blue sky here, could one make (or has anyone ever made) a two-speed starter motor, with the slower speed being the 'priming speed'? (If so, I'd guess you'd want manual control over the modes, in case your battery was really low, and you only had a couple cranks in it.)
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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    Mike, it probably cranks at about 100 RPM.
    A starter motor running at a slower speed would require more amps w/the same load.
    Electricity wise, it would be better to run a geared two speed starter......
    But it gets silly complicated at that point.

    At the turn of the last century, a number of race cars w/large in-line aero engines (it was a rather short lived fad) had no starters, and were almost impossible to crank.
    Instead, the cylinders were primed, the ignition marks were aligned on the flywheel, and the coil was turned on.......instant start. It would work almost all the time.
    My family had a '53 Chevy 6 (the original "Stove Bolt" engine) during the day. About one third of the time it would start when the ignition was turned on...remember it had points and a condensor.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Mike, it probably cranks at about 100 RPM.
    A starter motor running at a slower speed would require more amps w/the same load.
    Electricity wise, it would be better to run a geared two speed starter......
    But it gets silly complicated at that point.

    At the turn of the last century, a number of race cars w/large in-line aero engines (it was a rather short lived fad) had no starters, and were almost impossible to crank.
    Instead, the cylinders were primed, the ignition marks were aligned on the flywheel, and the coil was turned on.......instant start. It would work almost all the time.
    My family had a '53 Chevy 6 (the original "Stove Bolt" engine) during the day. About one third of the time it would start when the ignition was turned on...remember it had points and a condensor.
    Thanks, cool info.

    Sounds like the 100RPM cranking is probably plenty slow enough anyhow. That's almost an order of magnitude below idle. As long as there's plenty of juice in the battery(ies), pulling the coil lead sounds like a good way to go. And adding wiring for an ignition-free starter button is the luxury route.

    As an offshoot of this, anyone have any strong insights, knowledge, data, etc. on just how significant the wear is, from motors sitting and starting up before the oil has made its way onto all the parts?
    "I don't have time to get into it, but he went through a lot." -Pulp Fiction

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