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Thread: Won't start

  1. #1
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    Won't start

    1996 22 classic with 454 magnum. Wakeboarding all morning. Starting and stopping the engine. Tried to start and it would turn over but not start. At first I thought is needed fuel. Choked it and realized it was getting plenty of fuel. All it does is turn over and over and over. I took a spark plug wire off and attached a spare plug. Grounded it and turned the motor over. No spark. I pulled the coil wire from the distributer and checked and got no spark. What do you think it could be? Bad module in the distributer? Bad coil? How do I test these?

  2. #2
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    Lanyard and safety kill switch ???

    If it is, don't feel bad, it's not the first time that's happened.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  3. #3
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    check the ignition,purple wire under dash for power if you have it then go to the coil.

    first check the coil for power(purple wire) if their is power remove all the wires on the - side of the coil,remove the coil wore and hold it towards a ground,momentary ground the - side of the coil,if it sparks at the coul wire then its good if not then replace it...if the coil does spark then move to the hall effect in the distributor,, sorry i have a test one and its faster to replace it then going through all the bs of testing it..

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    Checked. No, but I wish it was. That just happened to (new to boating) neighbor. He realized it after being towed in.

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    Lightbulb

    Like fix said check for juice at the coil, also go over the connections back there especially the ground under the distributor base. If all looks good first borrow a coil to see if that fixes things, the module would be my next suspect then the pack. The packs seem to be the most durable.

    Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  6. #6
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    Got power on purple wire under dash. Got power at purple wire on coil. Got spark from coil. Tested it with dad's old coil tester. Where do the two wires from the negative side of the coil go? Got no power on either end of the wht/red lead from the distributor. What is attached to the back side of the distributor? Is it the ignition module harness? Could that or the ignition module be bad? With a good coil, what would cause it to not send a spark?

  7. #7
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    This is where a manual comes in really handy.
    I was trying to answer Chachi's question this morning and went right by a perfectly good schematic for the T Bolt igniton system.
    It's sitting on my desk at my office.

    But if YOU had one............
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  8. #8
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    Anyone close by that you could try another pack, the pack is plug and play and would rule it in or out as the cause. Could still be the module under the cap! Phil
    No matter what your beliefs are "GOD BLESS AMERICA"

    Fully retired marine tech near 60 years in the biz.

  9. #9
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    Coil wire
    Cap/rotor
    pickup coil
    ignition module
    spark control

    I went through a bunch of this diagnosis a week ago on an old truck ('93 305 TBI). Wouldn't start but getting spark at the plug. Coil ohm'd OK, pickup coil ohm'd OK and supposedly the ignition module (back of distributor) tested OK at the parts store. Ended up just putting a whole new distributor in and fired right up.

    Hijack on....Since I started dealing with these older TBIs, I noticed they use an Electronic Spark Controller (ESC) that looks mighty similar to the Merc Thunderbolt ignition module. Been wondering if there's a very different spark curve...hijack off
    Thanks,
    Michael

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOP View Post
    Anyone close by that you could try another pack, the pack is plug and play and would rule it in or out as the cause. Could still be the module under the cap! Phil
    Is the pack attached to the back of the distributor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    This is where a manual comes in really handy.
    I was trying to answer Chachi's question this morning and went right by a perfectly good schematic for the T Bolt igniton system.
    It's sitting on my desk at my office.

    But if YOU had one............

    I wish I had a manual. how do I know I have the T Bolt ignition?

  12. #12
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    Thunderbolt ignition is the standard for Merc engines. Generally they are VERY dependable.
    I hope you are successful in diagnosing your problem.
    MOP knows his stuff, he always has good info.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  13. #13
    mrfixxall Guest

    Fixx

    Quote Originally Posted by TBroccoli View Post
    I wish I had a manual. how do I know I have the T Bolt ignition?

    if you have a thunderbolt ignition their should be a module mounted to the starboard side exhaust riser,looks like the one in pic 1

    replace the pick up (hall effect)in the distributor first pic 2,,they just go out,their cheep around 60 bux..just pull the rotor and theirs 2 phillip screws and its out..

    the modules are 325.00 - 500.00 new but most of the older ones are NLA..

  14. #14
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    I had the same problem.I found a fuse was blown under the dash.IT would turn over all day to.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrfixxall View Post
    the modules are 325.00 - 500.00 new but most of the older ones are NLA..
    There's a lot available on eBay. The prices are all over the place. I've bought new ones for $150.00.
    Here's a list of the ones available. Your existing module has markings on it identifying it.

    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

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