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Thread: Ply or Coosa?

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by scippy View Post
    Decided to remove the (cockpit/cabin) bulkhead wall from the 27 sport today..........I found a little rot in the corner where the wall meets the hull, but really not much. I was looking for any good reason for a while to due this. Now crawling in & out won't be half as bad. I was lucky to get the wall out in virtually one piece, it was just a little flimsey so I screwed 1x2's to support it for tracing out the new wall after the fuel tanks go in. After much thought, I decided on 2 aluminum fuel tanks, both 65" apiece, roughy 12" longer than the 53" stock originals. Both getting Rochester twinset fuel senders (a manual sight glass gauge on the tank plus electrods to a dash mount) ........In a couple of the pictures you'll notice I've been peeling off some loosely laminated fiberglass. I pulled a slight corner that was up and now I'm surprisingly off to the races!......I have two questions?.......(1) I've used a flat chisel to pry it up to this point, how far ahead do I keep prying it up?.....also, because I'm using a bit of force to pull it up with a flat chisel, should a normal layer of woven roving be that prone to separation?..........One thing for sure is, "This beats f**k'n grinding any day of the week!

    Scippy

    Looks like you been very busy there ,, great!!!
    looking good, how much more fuel will you be able to carry now with the longer tanks?
    Thank you
    Jim

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by dammmagnum View Post
    Scippy

    Looks like you been very busy there ,, great!!!
    looking good, how much more fuel will you be able to carry now with the longer tanks?
    Thank you
    Jim

    Hey Jim,

    What's really funny is I am busy at it, but can't seem to get out of my own way when doing some work under the deck. Although I removed the cabin/cockpit wall to make it easier to move around, you still have to be a contortionist to get anything done. The new fuel tanks will be approx. 62 gallons apiece and 12" longer than the old ones of 49 gallons and 53" long..........The area pictured is clean now after I removed all the poorly laminated woven roving that was kicking up, it didn't serve any good bond. I don't know the laminate schedule on this hull, but if it's anything like the stringers (1/2" plywood core and glassed over more than 3/8" on each side) it defintely won't miss a few layers in the belly.
    1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
    1976 Magnum 27' Sport
    1986 Donzi 18' Classic
    NEVER FORGET 9/11

  3. #63
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    Late to the party here .. good thread . .

    I removed a through hull head on my Magnum 27, the water intake and outlet ports were just forward of the bulkhead at the top of the above picture.
    The glass layup here is 3/4" thick! Boat was built in 1968.

    I to will be rebuilding my transom, because I'll be raising my drives and engines . .my transom is still dry and solid, so I only plan to cut out the lower section and fill that in. Do you all think that a 30 degree angle cut to create a longer wider joint will be adequete?

    Mario L.
    68 Magnum

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by mphatc View Post
    I to will be rebuilding my transom, because I'll be raising my drives and engines . .my transom is still dry and solid, so I only plan to cut out the lower section and fill that in. Do you all think that a 30 degree angle cut to create a longer wider joint will be adequete?

    Mario L.
    68 Magnum
    Mario, every resource I have says to use a 1 in 12 joint.
    I just calculated that and it's only 7.2*.
    I know that's a lot of work, but the wider that joint is, the better.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  5. #65
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    Scippy looks good and are you going to put a scarf joint on the end of those stringer's when replacing the new wood .

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcarter View Post
    Mario, every resource I have says to use a 1 in 12 joint.
    I just calculated that and it's only 7.2*.
    I know that's a lot of work, but the wider that joint is, the better.
    I agree and sometimes i have seen some people putting no joint in at all with only an insert .

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
    Scippy looks good and are you going to put a scarf joint on the end of those stringer's when replacing the new wood .
    Artie, Those stringers will eventually be tabbed to the new cabin/cockpit wall (bulkhead if you will)........... If you remember, I removed it to gain better access to the area for fuel tank placement and to clean up a layer of peeled up WR.........Now, when the cabin wall goes back in the outboard stringers will be tied in much wider apart because the the floor was lowered by 7"
    1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
    1976 Magnum 27' Sport
    1986 Donzi 18' Classic
    NEVER FORGET 9/11

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFFSHORE GINGER View Post
    I agree and sometimes i have seen some people putting no joint in at all with only an insert .
    I could not imagine that. Certainly, in the case of a high torque area (a transom) anything but a proper 12 to 1 scarf for adequate adhesion plus the proper insert would only be asking for trouble,.
    1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
    1976 Magnum 27' Sport
    1986 Donzi 18' Classic
    NEVER FORGET 9/11

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by scippy View Post
    I could not imagine that. Certainly, in the case of a high torque area (a transom) anything but a proper 12 to 1 scarf for adequate adhesion plus the proper insert would only be asking for trouble,.
    Scippy , funny thing i have seen it done more then once on other forums which has resulted in failure of some nature . Scippy , i sometimes forget everything that is going on and every once and awhile i need a strike of lighting to keep my old AZZ on its toes , if you know what i mean . Ha ha ha ha

  10. #70
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    The TRS cutouts and thru exhaust holes are all scarfed and ready to be filled in now, but here in Jersey the weather has been seasonable and that means too cool to laminate (the magnum is stored in a 20'X40' unheated portable shelter) things might be heating up though, I'm checking out a suitable heating system, but until then just grinding and braving the cold.
    1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
    1976 Magnum 27' Sport
    1986 Donzi 18' Classic
    NEVER FORGET 9/11

  11. #71
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    You did it!!!!!!!
    All that crap is behind you now!
    You could use something as simple as lamps for heating the surfaces.
    George Carter
    Central Florida
    gcarter763@aol.com
    http://kineticocentralfl.com/


    “If you have to argue your science by using fraud, your science is not valid"
    Professor Ian Plimer, Adilaide and Melbourne Universities

  12. #72
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    Looking good Scippy

    Parnell
    Time forSweet Cheekz to find a new home

  13. #73
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    Scippy,
    Keep it up. You will soon be ahead of my restoration that stalled out temporarily - . What will you be using for a backing while laying up the glass? Will you try to do the entire layup and install the first piece of transom wood in one shot or will you do the glass work first? Bill

    1971 Donzi 18' 2+3
    1985 Eliminator 23' Daytona Offshore - Kevlar hull
    1988 23' Donzi CC F-23 with 250HP EFI Mercury OB
    1989 28' Team Warlock Offshore - single 548CID/600HP
    1990 23' Warlock Offshore - single 525HP
    Bill from Denison, TX - Lake Texoma

  14. #74
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    Scippy,
    Nice work!

    Now the plywood . . . will you use 1" thick or 3/4" thick to rebuild?


    George,

    Thank you . . . 7.2" isn't that bad to blend . . .I'm also considering gussets from the hull to the transom, two on each side.
    These would be perpendicular to the 24 degree surfaces one up each side of the drive mounting surface . . thoughts??

    I did rip out the wood below my drive cutouts today. And found that water had leaked around the brass tube from the hull drain. This was able to migrate up each side behind the plywood as the rear edge was not filled with anything prior to laminating in the plywood. I'll build the bottom in solid epoxy and install a thread in brass insert and not a brass tube.

    Mario L.

  15. #75
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    George,
    If I could, I'd like to heat a good portion of the enclosure just to extend the restoration through the winter and be comfortable while doing it, but we'll see........What would be the minimum temperature to realistically do fiberglassing?

    Bill,
    I intend to use a piece of melamine large enough to form the backing to the TRS cutouts and exhaust holes. Afix this to the outside of the transom and then start building up layers of fiberglass from the inside. Wish I had the Florida or even Texas climate right about now to keep working!.....no fun in the northeast for boat related fun this time of year!

    Mario,
    I found the same situation as yours in my boat. A relatively solid transom thru-out except for the small area around the drain plug. The moisture didn't wick but a few square inches around it, but this time around I will laminate fiberglass layers 1-1/2" thick in that small triangular area where the sleeve holds the drain plug. The rest of the transom (above this) will be 2 piece's of 3/4" marine ply.
    1983 Cigarette 35' Mistress
    1976 Magnum 27' Sport
    1986 Donzi 18' Classic
    NEVER FORGET 9/11

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